billy_awesome wrote:
If you haven't owned your FZR for a full season yet, please refrain from voting in this poll......bookmark it, your time will come! LOL
Oops...I didn't read that before I cast my vote...I've owned the FZR for all of a month. That said, I replaced my VR (or rectifier, whatever ) the first weekend after I bought it...the thought of the old one blowing up all of my electronics was enough incentive to just take care of it!
Incidentally, before I replaced it I had a small voltage leak (~300 microampere) that was still killing my battery...replacing the rectifier fixed that.
No shoes you are perfectly correct that is the proper name over here in the UK and back home in my shop, trouble is no one over by you speaks english the all speak 'merican so us foreigners to be half way understood have to use the local slang .
darrin said recently half of what I write he does not understand so ............................
I am tired reading tires when the word is tyres, which really tires me out , but hey some wise ass said UK & US are a people divided by a language <BG>
Since we're nitpicking, it's actually both in one package. The generator on the FZR utilizes a fixed stator containing the armature winding and motive rotor with permanent magnets. This configuration will produce a linearly rising voltage output as the rotor speed increases (i.e. RPM goes up). In order to prevent the generator from cooking the entire electrical system at red line, the voltage output needs to be capped. I'm not entirely sure of the specifics utilized by the FZR regulator/rectifier but the end result is that the excess voltage is thrown away in the form of heat. The diodes used in the rectifier do not generate much heat since between the two of them (per white wire, 6 total) they are letting nearly all of the electrical energy pass straight through.
Compare the FZRs generator to an automotive alternator which does not have any permanent magnets. They feature two windings, a motive field winding and fixed armature winding. This style of alternator requires a the motive field windings to be charged with a low amperage current to produce a magnetic field which is drug accross the fixed armature winding to produce the output current. The advantage here is that the output of the generator can be regulated my modulating the strength of the magnetic field generated by the field windings. Since this is in direct proportion to the input current and that current is relatively low, the task is much easier producing far less waste heat and scavenging less power from the engine (which would otherwise just be thrown away). This arrangement is a much simpler design since it can be made entirely self contained. The disadvantage is that without some current, no output will be produced at all. If your cars battery were completely dead, it would be impossible to bump start the car.
Haunter, would you mind passing me the impact socket wrench for the Flux Capacitor?
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Oh yeah great dissertation Luke, bravo.....beers?
The fzr has 3 diodeshttp://www.powerdesigners.com/InfoWeb/r ... rcuit.html not 6. 6 diodes are used in a fullwave bridged rectifier....3 phase are half wave. Your rectifier has 5 wires or blades... 3 are diodes the other 2 are the + and -... You test them by using an ohm meter to check resistance in both directions..One should read high resistance the other should be very low to no resistance...Rectifiers are used with alternators...Regulators are used with generators and use transistors ( old ones used relays)....I just think if you are going to post info on line you should use the correct terms as using the wrong ones could confuse people and if I were "nitpicking" I wold have also said FZRs dont have a generators they are you guessed it 3 phase alternators.....
States visited on my 90 FZR 1000
90 1000 w/ 92 USD forks w/ gold valves and Racetech springs,Technomagnesio rims, Ohlins shock,custom dog-bones,Corbin gunfighter seat,Whistler Crusader radar/laser detector,Veil anti-laser coating on plate and head lights,K&N,Yosh carbon slip-on,custom jetting,5 angle valve job & polishing,Ebc pro light contour front disks,R-1 blue dot calipers,Ebc organic pads and steel braided front brake lines,0 grav smoked windshield,carbon bar ends, frame sliders,49 tooth SS ultra light titan-tuff rear sprocket,530 chain kit,Custom ultra light rear disk, Yosh digital temp gauge....It never ends does it???
noshoes wrote:...I just think if you are going to post info on line you should use the correct terms as using the wrong ones could confuse people and if I were "nitpicking" I wold have also said FZRs dont have a generators they are you guessed it 3 phase alternators.....
NS,
The only problem is the other 99% of the list would have to go back to night school ( not a bad idea since they get to ride the bike more often )lOl
Not sure if their other halves /GF's etc would tolerate even more time away learning more about "that confounded contraption "
Oh and for those of you going sh*t what at my age I got my second degree at 51after 3 years not 4 (mostly because I could and was bloody bored with 9-5 non-challenges )
. I must be the only student in the history of the uni that was ever called sir by the lecturers after I corrected some of their mis learned urban myths with what actually went on since I was old enough to have been there and actually did that, a very satisfying feeling
yamaha_george wrote:Oh and for those of you going sh*t what at my age I got my second degree at 51after 3 years not 4 (mostly because I could and was bloody bored with 9-5 non-challenges )
. I must be the only student in the history of the uni that was ever called sir by the lecturers after I corrected some of their mis learned urban myths with what actually went on since I was old enough to have been there and actually did that, a very satisfying feeling
So, that means you were kicking ar*e and taking names not only in the military, but in the halls of higher education as well. Go Geo!
1997 FZR600RJ
Engine: K&N Drop-in air filter - stock airbox - FP 5°ignition advancer - EBC "Street Racer" Kevlar clutch
Exhaust: Stock header - Yoshimura RS-3 Carbon fiber slip-on
Body: Original paint/graphics - Clear Alternatives integrated LED Taillight - Flanders' flush front signals - YZF600 Mirrors - Comp. Werkes Stainless fender eliminator/tag bracket - 60w/55w H4 headlights
Tires: Metzler MEZ4B 120/70 ZR17 Front - Michelin Madacam 100x 150/70 ZR18 Rear
Brakes:Stock rotors with EBC HH Sinstered pads
In the works: YZF600 header, '97 Bandit 600 rear wheel, DynoJet Stage 3, Racetech Springs and Emulators fork rebuild, FZ1 rear shock, YZF600 front MC, Galfer SS Lines, CFM rearsets
What is the difference in upgrading to the R6 or other applicable V/R or Rectifier?
Notably the age and wear of the unit being a common factor.
Are all FZR's including 87 1000's able to do this upgrade?
noshoes wrote:The fzr has 3 diodeshttp://www.powerdesigners.com/InfoWeb/r ... rcuit.html not 6. 6 diodes are used in a fullwave bridged rectifier....3 phase are half wave. Your rectifier has 5 wires or blades... 3 are diodes the other 2 are the + and -... You test them by using an ohm meter to check resistance in both directions..One should read high resistance the other should be very low to no resistance...Rectifiers are used with alternators...Regulators are used with generators and use transistors ( old ones used relays)....I just think if you are going to post info on line you should use the correct terms as using the wrong ones could confuse people and if I were "nitpicking" I wold have also said FZRs dont have a generators they are you guessed it 3 phase alternators.....
I am a little confused about the claim of 3 diodes. The diagram in the link clearly shows 6 diodes so that did little clear anything up. Are you saying that VR on FZR throws away half the voltage then? I'm no electrical engineer so some of that info on that page went over my head. From what I gather though, the regulator is built in to the rectifier circuit, which is why I was confused when you said there is none.
When you're testing resistance, which pins are you testing? White to what?
And for the record, I'm aware of difference between a generator and alternator. I think when most people think of an alternator, they think of what's in their car, of which the output is DC. It was an attempt to make a post with a lot of technical content easier to understand.
I'm not trying to argue with anyone, just spreading information around.
) the first weekend after I bought it...the thought of the old one blowing up all of my electronics was enough incentive to just take care of it! 
