Buying an FZR600 - What to Know!

[ragedigital]

So, you've seen an FZR600 for sale and you like the looks and the price tag.

What should you know before buying?

Besides the most obvious common things between buying a bike, like "maintenance schedules", checking tire tread, corrosion of any kind, etc... here are some of the items relevant to the FZR600.

1. FZR600s are one of the most enhanced motorcycles out there. Meaning they have many aftermarket parts as well as many parts from other bike manufacturers incorporated on to them. Make sure that those parts fit tight and cleanly. This is not a drawback. This is actually a huge plus for any FZR owner or soon to be owner. Many bikes cannot take advantage of today's advances in motorcycling. This includes, but is not limited to, motors, front ends, swingarms and rims.

2. FZR600s have a common 2nd gear problem. At least on mine, it would not shift into 2nd from 1st gear if the RPM range was abouve 8-9k RPM. When doing the test ride, and if you're comfortable, take it to 10k and shift it into second. This may be an easy fix by simply removing the oil pan and replacing the shift drum and forks. More severe problems may require splitting the cases.

3. FZR600s have an 18" rear tire. Since most bikes have a 17" rear tire, this means that rear tire rubber is limited, not obsolete. Manufacturers, including Bridgestone, still offer racing tires for the 18" rear (see BT-090).

4. They're old, so check that wear and tear items such as brakes, tyres, brake hoses, etc aren't worn to the point of pain, as they are pricy to replace. Not a problem as such, but a good way to chisel some money off the asking price if they are.

5. Suspension. Not bad for it's time, but never top notch. Check there is still some semlance of damping lelf in the forks and rear shock, and check that neither are leaking or so badly corroded that a leak is imminent. Not a problem to sort, but another good way to lever some money off the price.

6. Damaged bodywork. Damage isn't a problem if yo're planning the buy a bike as a project, but don't go thinking even minor cracks are easy or cheap to repair, and very hard/expensive to source used.

7. Wooly high rev acceleration - Indicative of one of the numerous problems that beset a FZR, such as dying Voltage regulator, worn Emulsion tubes etc.

8. Check the engine isn't rattly - Indicitave of valves in need of adjustment, or a madly flailing camchain, both of which are pricy.

9. Difficult cold starting - Can be many things, but if the bikes exceeded 20k miles be suspicious of mis-shapen/worn inlet valves. Pricy.

10. Electrics - For the love of God, check every light, lamp, whistle and bell!

11. Battery - Check it's in good nick with the acid at the correct level, and up to the job of starting the bike & working all the toys. Be alert for non FZR batterys with the wiring bodged to make them fit, as the FZR has it's terminals swapped when compared to a regular battery. A decent conversion with apprpriate guage wire, and a clean solid joint, all neatly insulated with a proper end terminal, is not a problem.

12. Exhuasts - standard front pipes rot badly, and many will have been replaced with stainless items, which is good. Many silencers will have also been replaced. Noisy ones can be fun, but be aware of the law re this in your area, and remember that really loud ones with the minimum of internal baffling can have an adverse affect on the carb settings. a rotten exhuast is staightforward to sort, and another good "money off" point.

13. Accessories - Rear grabrails, racks, radiator shields etc are worth having, even if they're a bit manky. A clean up and repaint and these items go for good money on ebay due to their rarity.

14. Sensible mods - Some mods are well worth having. Later FZR/R (YZF to you colonial chaps ) carbs, 400 swingarms, Inverted forke, blue dot brakes, etc, are all worth having if they've been fitted safely and appropriately. Apart from improving the appearance and function, they're sometimes the only way to keep a worn out Fizzer going, so we'll be seeing more of this as time goes by.

15. Recharging System: If you have a voltage regulator. Start the bike and see if the recharging system is working. Should be 12 volts before startup, and anywhere from 13-15 volts with the bike running. If the bike is running and volts are 12V or below, chances are the stator/VR/battery combination is bad, for the FZR, typically the weak overheating VR goes bad, look for a aftermarket direct plug in VR or a upgraded YZF,R6, R1 FZ6 etc version for dependability (theres nothing worse than being broken down at the side of the road).

16.Figure on replacing the throttle cables and clutch cable, just to be safe, these tend to be "forgotten-about" items that are usually pretty old, rusted, and ready to snap, or just plain worn to their stretching limit.

Credits: #1-3 Rage, #4-14 Fartblood, #15 Billy_awesome, #16 Yam93

******Please add to this list. I have to go do some work, but I do plan on finishing it.... -rage

[billy_awesome]

15. Recharging System: If you have a voltage regulator. Start the bike and see if the recharging system is working. Should be 12 volts before startup, and anywhere from 13-15 volts with the bike running. If the bike is running and volts are 12V or below, chances are the stator/VR/battery combination is bad, for the FZR, typically the weak overheating VR goes bad, look for a aftermarket direct plug in VR or a upgraded YZF,R6, R1 FZ6 etc version for dependability (theres nothing worse than being broken down at the side of the road).

[YAM93]

16.) Figure on replacing the throttle cables and clutch cable, just to be safe, these tend to be "forgotten-about" items that are usually pretty old, rusted, and ready to snap, or just plain worn to their stretching limit.

[ragedigital]

Sounds good all... I'd like to see one for each motorcycle category. Try to be specific to each bike as much as possible. I realize many things will overlap and that's fine.

If your post was deleted, blame me, but I added them to the first post and gave each one who contributed CREDIT at the both of the post.

[ANCIAL]

Always over look the frame specially the tail. just in case the previous owner decide to wheely the bike and 12oclocked it on the tail it could of tweaked it or flat bent and tried to cover it up for sale. to me the frame is the utmost important part of the bike. it supports everything including you as your going 80 down the freeway. if it is comprimised then your safety is to.

[95FZR600]

If your really interested, hand the current owner the cash and ride it. you will know then if you want it or not.