my experience with the archives stator test?

[crasher]

okay well i've already decided I do need a stator however I have some questions regarding the stator test from the archives. in the archives it states to put one lead of the multimeter on one white wire and the other on another white wire. well I did this and revved my bike to 3k and got a reading of zero on my multimeter. I then thought hey wait don't I need to put the black lead of multimeter to ground, so I did and low and behold I got a reading of about 18 volts. nowhere near the 30-40 range but I did get a reading that way. same results with the other white wire. am I wrong or doesn't one of the multimeter leads need to be at ground in order to get a reading?

[tazwars99]

Hi. I think you were doing the continuity test . You should of had your multi meter set to ohms and not running for that test. The voltage test you connect to one white then to an earth and rev the bike to around 5000rpm. I happen to do the same tests yesterday as my stator is knackered to

[reelrazor]

Hi. I think you were doing the continuity test . You should of had your multi meter set to ohms and not running for that test. The voltage test you connect to one white then to an earth and rev the bike to around 5000rpm. I happen to do the same tests yesterday as my stator is knackered to

WRONG on both.

The stator is a three phase AC device. Permanent magnets mounted on the flywheel pass by the coils of the stator inductively exciting them.

There should be NO continuity to ground...

i.e. from any white wire to ground should be "OPEN" -NO continuity.

Running, with your multimeter set on AC voltage (alternating current) at 3000 rpm you should see at LEAST 35 Volts AC (alternating current) on ANY pair of white wires (red lead from multimeter on one e white wire, the black on another white wire. This should be tested on all three pairs of white wires.

white wires A, B, C, correct?

test across A and B, B &C, and A and C.

This is not rocket science, and is NOT FZR specific....this is the standard for most japanese bike charging systems. We did not invent some FZR specific test procedure.

There is nothing wrong with the test,

just how you are doing it.

[crasher]

WRONG on both.

The stator is a three phase AC device. Permanent magnets mounted on the flywheel pass by the coils of the stator inductively exciting them.

There should be NO continuity to ground...

i.e. from any white wire to ground should be "OPEN" -NO continuity.

Running, with your multimeter set on AC voltage (alternating current) at 3000 rpm you should see at LEAST 35 Volts AC (alternating current) on ANY pair of white wires (red lead from multimeter on one e white wire, the black on another white wire. This should be tested on all three pairs of white wires.

white wires A, B, C, correct?

test across A and B, B &C, and A and C.

This is not rocket science, and is NOT FZR specific....this is the standard for most japanese bike charging systems. We did not invent some FZR specific test procedure.

There is nothing wrong with the test,

just how you are doing it.

I did the test exactly as it states in the archives, im just wondering why wouldn't I get any voltage with one lead on one white wire and the other lead on another, but get a reading of 18 volts when I put one of the leads to ground? I used an etek 10709 digital multimeter. which im staring to think is junk because when I do a resistance test it just keeps creeping up.

[reelrazor]

WRONG on both.



I did the test exactly as it states in the archives, im just wondering why wouldn't I get any voltage with one lead on one white wire and the other lead on another, but get a reading of 18 volts when I put one of the leads to ground? I used an etek 10709 digital multimeter. which im staring to think is junk because when I do a resistance test it just keeps creeping up.

Well, it is IMPOSSIBLE that you will see AC voltage from any white wire to ground. There is not a single situation that will allow this....unless the bike's PO was into inventing new stator wiring patterns and hand rewinding.

retry the test using the AC scale (not DC like i SUSPECT you did the first time)

The ohms test is basically bullshit and teaches you nothing of any value....you know how small a factor .37 ohm is? Regardless...that meter has a calibration routine..use it. And the number creep thing usually means the meter's battery is getting suspect

[reelrazor]

Hi. I think you were doing the continuity test . You should of had your multi meter set to ohms and not running for that test. The voltage test you connect to one white then to an earth and rev the bike to around 5000rpm. I happen to do the same tests yesterday as my stator is knackered to

Completely wrong.

Disregard

[tazwars99]

Yes your right I've just gone through what I watched and I did as crasher said. Sorry was a bit late...... but I don't think the water on my stator did mine any good!

[crasher]

I apologize if my wording was confusing, I had no white wire to ground, I had one white wire on the red (positive) lead to my multimeter. And the I had the black (negative) lead from my multimeter to ground. and that is when I got a reading of 18 volts. but with one lead of my multimeter on one white wire and one lead on another white wire I got a reading of zero. just confusing to me is all. and yes it was in ac volts. but as I said I think my multimeter is toast.

[reelrazor]

I apologize if my wording was confusing, I had no white wire to ground, I had one white wire on the red (positive) lead to my multimeter. And the I had the black (negative) lead from my multimeter to ground. and that is when I got a reading of 18 volts.

That is EXACTLY what I meant. it is an ALTERnator....meaning it makes ALTERNATING current....there is NO circuit including a ground path. each white wire ends at another white wire...THAT IS THE CIRCUIT.

In fact if you go over to the ohms (resistance) scale and check from (either red or black lead-doesn't matter) each of the three white wires and the other lead on ground (frame of bike or metal frame of stator itself) you should not see ANY continuity ('infinite' or 'open' ). If you Do have continuity....that leg (pairing of windings) is 'shorted to ground' and will not produce (but the other two will.) any AC output....

Neither will it make DC output.

IT WON'T (CAN'T) MAKE ANY VOLTAGE. Tesla himself couldn't have made it make voltage.

but with one lead of my multimeter on one white wire and one lead on another white wire I got a reading of zero. just confusing to me is all. and yes it was in ac volts. but as I said I think my multimeter is toast.

Generally if a meter is 'toast' it doesn't work at all. If the battery in it is weak (yes, there's a battery in the back) the reading will drift.

ALL meters have a calibration routine. Old analog meters had a thumbwheel to 'zero' the meter. Digimeters you either set to the scale you want to calibrate and hold the leads together until the numbers zero or you hold them together and push DOWN on the selector switch.

A perfectly serviceable digital meter can be had for less than $5.

[crasher]

sorry just trying to make sense of this. I know what I did and what the results were so I must've done the impossible, I was not saying the test from the archives was bogus, just sharing my experience, and from what I understand a circuit is not complete without a ground. I do not see how it would be impossible to get a reading of voltage the way i did it. like I said I know what I did and I know the result. I wonder if you tried what I did if you would get a reading. i.e. red lead to white wire, and black lead to ground while bike is running at 3k. I'd be interested in your results. weather is crummy right now but on a nice day ill put my stator back in the bike and take a video of myself doing the test, I'd be happy if someone could tell me if and what im doing wrong. again thanks for the reply

[DonTZ125]

from what I understand a circuit is not complete without a ground.

Sorta kinda not quite. A circuit must be CLOSED for current to flow; in most DC systems, there is a low reference point called "Ground" or "Earth", which (on the bike) is connected to the battery -ve terminal. Note that you do not necessarily connect to GROUND, but rather to battery negative.

In the case of the stator, you have a 3-phase AC system, which has 3 parallel AC circuits. They should have absolutely no connectivity with the DC system on the bike; any current flow from AC to DC indicates a fairly significant malfunction of either the wiring or the VRR.

From the top - you have 3 white wires at the stator plug. Measure the AC voltage across each pair at >3k rpm; do NOT connect to any DC wiring. The TCI has little to no reverse-battery protection, and applying an AC voltage will kill it pretty damn fast.