FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hi guys,

I'm new to the forum, so I apologize if this is a repeat thread. I tried searching a few times and haven't come up with any results, but I know I don't always word things properly.

So, I just picked up a 1993 FZR 600 off of a friend of mine. He told me that the cluth rod was broken and that something else was missing, but he isn't exactly mechanincally inclined. He also failed ot mention that the clutch level has next to no pressure when pulling it and that the clutch itself doesn't seem to be doing anything. I am able to shift the bike into 1-6 and freely roll it around without any issue or resistance. I have not taken the clutch or transmission appart yet, so I'm not sure if anything is actually broken in there or not. I know my friend also didn't take it appart, so I'm not sure where his diagnosis came from. Has anyone else had a similar issue? It does not matter whether the bike is on or off, it still rolls freely while in gear as if it were in neutral.

Thanks in advance!

Kyle

This is just a 'off the top of my head guess', but sounds like something is jamed within the clutch, keep the clutch 'pressed in' all the time. I have the same bike, and I know mine has a helix throw out 'screw' that when you pull in the clutch, it rotates a course screw of sorts, and as it threads in, it will push on the clutch components. I think these helix piece is spring loaded, so it will spring the level back when released. I say pull the clutch cover and inspect what you can to see if everything is still free moving.

Well, obviously your clutch is not engaging..

-First thing i would check is the Clutch cable adjustment on the engine: Below is Copied from 'CPR for the FZR'

1. Back off the cable adjustment at the clutch lever all the way until the cable is loose as a goose.
2. Look on the clutch cover. See that round plastic cover? Pry it off and you will see a bolt and a locknut in the hole.
3. Loosen the locknut.
4. Back off the adjustment screw in the center. Then tighten until you feel resistance. If you aren't sure back off and do it again a couple of times. The resistance that you feel are the clutch springs being compressed. At the point where you just feel the resistance back the screw out 1/4 turn.
5. Tricky part - while holding the adjustment screw in position, tighten the locknut.
6. Adjust the cable at the clutch lever - see book for proper adjustment.
7. Put the little plastic cover back on the clutch cover (assuming you still had one to begin with).

Let us know what this does; if the clutch rod was broken i would think the clutch would never dis-engage... (DON'T start the engine til you figure this out..)

Thanks guys. I'll try to get to this tonight and start with the clutch cable. I guess the next step would be to check out what MyYz400 said.

Just to make sure I'm on the right page, when you say "clutch cover" you're referring to the cover on the left hand side of the bike (while sitting on it)?

The Clutch Cover is on the Brake Lever Side, the place where you add oil.
The Clutch Adjustment we are referring too is on the Gear Shift Lever side, where the Front Sprocket is; its a little rubber cap.

Okay, cool. Glad I double checked. My terminology is pretty terrible these days. It's been a while since I've owned a bike. Thanks again and I'll check back in tomorrow!

I +1 on Pnbell's suggestion. I would modify it slight, and say once you loosen the lock nut, back the adjuster screw back as far as you can with out it falling out. The WITH OUT STARTING THE BIKE, click it into gear and see if it still rolls in gear. If yes, you got other problems, if no, then you found your issue, and adjust it as PnBell suggests. Also, with a bike that old, it really wouldnt hurt you to pull the clutch cover any how. If your mechanically inclined, I would suggest, drain the oil, tilt the bike on the left side, pop the cover and remove the plates. This should give you an idea of what you're getting into. You can check the state of the clutch plates to see if you might need new ones, and it removes the spring load on the clutch assembly so you can move things by hand to fine if anything is stuck, or have abnormal amounts of play. just my $.02, others feel free to confirm/deny

You don't actually need to drain the oil; with the bike on the sidestand, the oil sloshes enough to the left that only a few drops fall out.

Edit - Oh, yeah; watch the pressure plate and basket alignment marks. The pressure plate goes on 5 ways, only one of which actually gives any clamping force.

Hey guys,

I tried the clutch cable adjustment on the engine and it didn't do a thing. Looks like the next step is to pull the clutch cover and check that baby out... Fun times...

It really isn't hard. Note which cover holes had the two long bolts, and DON'T over torque the hub bolts - you'll snap off a spring tower, and have to replace the hub.