FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

I measured the resistance between the white wires for the VR and was getting.5-.6 ohms. my multimeter doesn't get accurate enough to display to two digits. From what I remember if the resistance is not between .31-.37 the stator is bad?

I've found that to not always be true. I would check the AC voltage across all the white wires. I forget the number, but it's in the wiki.

I think 40 to 60v at 3k rpm

I will check after work today.

well i checked the stator voltages which looked good, so i plugged everything back in and started getting correct voltages again so......

basically there wasn't a good reason for any of this that I could find. sounds like a loose connection somewhere even though i have no idea how....

I seem to have missed an episode - were you having under charging issues?

Anyway - the simple act of unplugging and replugging the connectors could scrape gunk off the contacts. Pop the stator plugs and the VRR plugs, and give them a scrub. Check the security and condition of the battery terminals, the ground bolt on the engine, and the hot terminal at the starter solenoid.

DonTZ125 wrote:I seem to have missed an episode - were you having under charging issues?

Anyway - the simple act of unplugging and replugging the connectors could scrape gunk off the contacts. Pop the stator plugs and the VRR plugs, and give them a scrub. Check the security and condition of the battery terminals, the ground bolt on the engine, and the hot terminal at the starter solenoid.

Just recently a battery of mine was not holding a charge in my bike and after some investigation I wasn't getting the right voltages while running. I was slightly under 13.7. I would run at about 13.4 and then that voltage would drop if the RPM's went higher. I'll do what you said and do some cleaning to them as well. I'm glad it's working!

The ground between the R/R the heat sink and the frame is suspect on this bike. So after replacing a fried r/r with an early TDM/XT r/r (which also has cooling fins on it) I added an extra ground cable to the same battery ground to frame bolt and all has been ok since, for thousands of miles.
Search the threads for an upgraded r/r from R6 I believe with a ground connection on the r/r (5 pin plug).
This is common when you have too many aluminum to steel to aluminum to steel connections and moisture.

zerogara wrote:The ground between the R/R the heat sink and the frame is suspect on this bike. So after replacing a fried r/r with an early TDM/XT r/r (which also has cooling fins on it) I added an extra ground cable to the same battery ground to frame bolt and all has been ok since, for thousands of miles.
Search the threads for an upgraded r/r from R6 I believe with a ground connection on the r/r (5 pin plug).
This is common when you have too many aluminum to steel to aluminum to steel connections and moisture.

I do have a new upgraded VR which was weird to me that it was not working. You could be right about the ground, i should probably find a better location for mine.

The ground from the VRR should run directly to the engine ground bolt; the convoluted ground path through the frame and harness is a major part of the problem. The existing wire from the battery -ve to the engine ground bolt must also be connected.