FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hi,

Up until now most of my jobs on the bike have gone fairly well but today I ended up with two broken studs trying to remove the headers.

With the engine still in the frame would an drilling and using a stud extraxtor be a workable solution, I have found some extractors that have socket socket heads and can be be used with a ratchet which might give more control?

Are there any tricks/ointments/prayers to help removal?

Clanky,
see:-
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9313

for the right way to do it make sure you read the bit about metallurgy that I wrote or you will end up needing anew engine case !!!!1

Thanks George,

I had read that thread but because the stud shown in the last photo is broken almost flush I didn't think it was possible, maybe with a bit of care it could work the way you suggested. I've got a friend who has a welder and the skill to use it (ex army mechanic who luckily likes his spirits - liquid bribe time I think!)

Clanky wrote:Thanks George,

I had read that thread but because the stud shown in the last photo is broken almost flush I didn't think it was possible, maybe with a bit of care it could work the way you suggested. I've got a friend who has a welder and the skill to use it (ex army mechanic who luckily likes his spirits - liquid bribe time I think!)

Clanky,
I have built up studs that were down the hole and gotten them out. by welding on aT bar or busted allen key shank

if you use arc/tig/mig REMOVE the battery and the TDI from the bike no sense in chancing damage to them !

try using some penetating oil , then carefully drill the center and use an eazy out. let the oil work for a few hours

hangon wrote:try using some penetating oil , then carefully drill the center and use an eazy out. let the oil work for a few hours

Hi, suggest you read Y-Geo's comment on Metallurgy of broken steel before wasting time with drills Do not how i know this one :-{

drill it tap it helicoil it done deal pal

there is a freeze spray but as its a flush snap i'd go down the route of welding a bolt on a using WD40 to penetrate the thread.

burns556 wrote:drill it tap it helicoil it done deal pal

Hi,
I would read the piece about broken bolt metallurgy I referred to before putting a hand drill anywhere near the engine cases.

Thank you for all the advice.

Over the weekend I got the most difficult stud out. One down one to go.

My friend's welder was playing up so I didn't have that option available to me. I decided to use an easy out and carefully drilled the shorter (flush broken) stud down its centre. The drilling itself loosened the stud enough that it came out with hardly any effort. Very lucky really, I appreciate why this is not the preferred method but it worked for me this time round.

The longer stud I am leaving alone until I can get a better stud remover, looking at something like this

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001DYRDU2/r ... B001DYRDU2

Cheers

Nigel

I like stud extractors like these. They fit over std ratchet sets so are very easy to use, and make it very easy to judge what torque you are applying and whether the stud will snap. The tighter you turn these the tighter they grip and because the the turning force is over the centre off the stud they are a bit less likely to snap the bugger.

http://www.drapertools.com/b2c/b2citmds ... 641&ipadd=

As others have said - soak it in penetrating oil first. Give it a good wire brushing then soak it!

Good luck

Chris