FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Well stripped the wheels down today, got the front wheel stripped nice and easily, however the rear one is being a complete pig. I've manged to get 4 of the 6 bolts out but these last two are being complete swines!! I've tried the hole impact driver route, and the hack saw route, but yet still no luck, I'm tempted to cut the disc of the wheel (I have another disc) leaving the bolts still in the wheel and the grip the bolts with mole grips and remove the bolt that way, in theory it should work shouldn't it? I dont wanna go down the drilling out retaping route as its an alloy wheel. Other than this the bike just need the rust removing then powder time.

Try driving a sharp chissel at an appropriate angle into the head of the bolt and try and loosen them that way, assuming you have some of the bolt heads left. A little bit of heat and some penetrating oil of your choice probably wouldn't hurt at this stage of the game either.

if you have a welder or know one, you can weld a rod to the top of the bolt at a 80 angle and just twist them out. I've had to do it that way on way too many bolts. Otherwise a torch helps to loosen the loctite in there and then perhaps the chisel method would work.

Mixing acetone and ATF works pretty great as a penetrating oil. Then the aforementioned heat.

Good luck!

Well i managed to get both the bolts out after grinding the head off and then grinds a cross into both bolt shanks and with the use of an impact driver and 40 mins hammering I finally got the fookers out.



Now onto the sodding wheel bearings....

Good for you!

Excellent work!

Chris

Dontcha love the feeling when it finally comes out? Nice job.

pefrey wrote:Dontcha love the feeling when it finally comes out? Nice job.

Yeah the sigh of relief and your arm can take a break.

Stuck bolts are my next least favorite thing to tracing wires.

FZRDave91 wrote:Stuck bolts are my next least favorite thing to tracing wires.

Dont even get me started with electrics!!

Gizzard1533 wrote:

FZRDave91 wrote:Stuck bolts are my next least favorite thing to tracing wires.

Dont even get me started with electrics!!

Im right there with you, thankfully tracing wires on most bikes is easier than tracing wires in automotive applications. There are less places to hide the wires

FZRDave91 wrote:

Gizzard1533 wrote:

FZRDave91 wrote:Stuck bolts are my next least favorite thing to tracing wires.

Dont even get me started with electrics!!

Im right there with you, thankfully tracing wires on most bikes is easier than tracing wires in automotive applications. There are less places to hide the wires

Agree with you on that as well mate, also less small components on bikes which is alway a bonus.

Hi,
Ok so you did it the hard way <BG> next time any of you get a broken or seized bolt take TK's advice and mine use a welded on rod, yeh I know you do not have one but someone near you has go be his/her next best friend., Beer is always a good argument for some one to help out.

The thing to remember is the bolt is corroded in place because it is made of a different material to what it is in. Stainless Bolts are renown for this if put in Alloy castings (engine cases) and that is why you always use Koppercote anti-seize paste when assembling.

If and when a bolt breaks the face that sheers is now crystaline and is far harder than most drill bits which is why Eze outs are such a waste of time & money. Only with heat as in welding heat will soften the surface and "break" the corrosive material that is holding it so tight.

As for bike wiring it is not difficult or some kind of magic it is VERY easy. so stop throwing up mental road blocks and stopping yourself before starting.

Electricity is like water it flows through wires like water in a pipe, if it goes in one end but does not come out the other there is a break in the pipe/wire simple as. Like water it will always take the shortest route to earth just you will not see a damp patch where it leaked just a vague brown/black mark where it is going to ground.

YG - the bolt wasn't seized from corrosion it was the over use of loctite that made the bolt so tuff to get out. It was the hardway yes and it was the only way i could do it, everyone down my street wear suits and ties to work, there not the kind of people to hold welders, the only welder i know of, looks like it came from world war 1, and doesn't even function that well. I believe i am the only one with a bike as well. I always use the koppakote solution when assembling, found that product 3 years ago and have been using it since. The only easy outs i usecare the socket ones not those crappy drill bit ones never had any luck with those!!

As far as bike wiring is concerned, yes i moan about it but i still knuckle down and do the job, purely for the fact that its self accomplishmant. If all i did was moan about the wiring and not fix it, i wouldn't be a biker nor a mechanic. From the start i've had electrical problems with every bike i've owned, but got it done and felt the reward from it on the bike.

The bolts out now, bikes wiring is fine, frame and things are off to powdercoating so everything it good