Changing the clutch 3HE 600

[SouthendChris]

Been out for my first long ride on my 3HE 600 since getting it all road legal. Have been commuting to work on it this week also but thats like 10miles round trip - just to get some Km's under its belt.

Now my bike has been dry stored since early '06 and I think it has done for the clutch. There is play at the lever but all of the clutch action occurs in the last 5-10mm of lever movement - not good in my books, maybe even partially seized??? Once warmed up the bike is a complete pain in the ass to pull away smoothly.

I have bought a new genuine yammy cable and am going to source a set of EBC clutch plates. On my FZR250 I changed the clutch with the bike on the sidestand and without draining the engine oil - can the same be done with the 600??

On the FZR250 the clutch arm is on top of the gearbox and is very easy to change the cable and adjust. On the 600 it looks like the clutch cable goes into the sprocket cover casing is there means to adjust it in there? Any tips to make the job easier

Cheapest I could find a clutch plates set is here http://www.brakes4u.co.uk/supersearch.a ... 700cc&pg=2 £41.02 inc P&P. Any deals anywhere else?

Thanks in advance

Chris

[lamer]

On my FZR250 I changed the clutch with the bike on the sidestand and without draining the engine oil - can the same be done with the 600??

You gotta drop the oil out, or so I've heard lay the bike on it's left side. To prevent any scuffing use an old mattress or something else cushions e.t.c. If you go that route ensure the fuel tap is OFF we dont want fuel leaking on the ground and possibly into cylinders #1 & #2 Hydro-lock

On the FZR250 the clutch arm is on top of the gearbox and is very easy to change the cable and adjust. On the 600 it looks like the clutch cable goes into the sprocket cover casing is there means to adjust it in there? Any tips to make the job easier

Try adjusting the clutch correctly.

1. Slacken the adjuster @ the clutch lever so you have plenty of freeplay.

2. Inside the sprocket cover is the clutch actuator, look for the big rubber grommet on the outside of the sprocket cover and remove it, there you will find a 12mm nut securing a grub screw, slacken the nut then back off the grub screw, then tighten the screw until it slightly bottoms, back it out 1/4 turn then tighten the 12mm nut.

3. Adjust the freeplay @ the lever to 2-3mm

The sprocket cover must be removed to replace the clutch cable, remove the screws/allen bolts, there's two locating dowels between the sprocket cover and crank cases that can make removal tedious, you may need to work it back and forth.

If that doesn't solve your problem and you need to replace the clutch, you must re adjust the clutch as described above.

GL

[DonTZ125]

From what a few people have mentioned here, if the bike is on its sidestand you won't lose much oil. A drip pan or pile of rags is still recommended.

[SouthendChris]

From what a few people have mentioned here, if the bike is on its sidestand you won't lose much oil. A drip pan or pile of rags is still recommended.

Indeed I didn't loose any oil when I changed the clutch today. Bike on the sidestand.

The only problem I did have was that the replacement clutch sprigs didn't fit. They were *just* too big in the diameter to fit into the centre cover . the springs that were in there had red spray paint on them - anyone know if these are the originals??

I also managed to change the clutch cable for a genuine yammy new one and I stripped down the left footpeg and greased up the shifter mechanism.

Just the spark plugs to change, there looks to less room than when I did my FZR250 ones!!!!

Chris