Clutch Push Lever Assembly Issues and Adjustment (Solved)

[Clanky]

Hi,

Recently changed my clutch with a complete kit from EBC (friction plates/steels/springs). Replaced both push rods and the small steel bearing and fitted a new clutch cable. I also saw that the original clutch push lever assembly had broken tabs on the outer face so I replaced it with a better second hand one.

This impoved things as the old clutch was slipping slightly before. However, I cannot seem to get the clutch bite point right, and gear change performance varies, sometimes smooth sometimes rough, previously it was quite positive.

I have done the adjustment at the push lever assembly end (loosened cable right off, turned bolt in until lightly touching and backed of 1/4 turn and later took it out some more). Adjusted at the lever for 2-3 mm play at the lever butt.

Today I took the clutch push lever assembly off again and found the same two small tabs broken (does this really matter?). I am out of ideas now, is there something obvious that I'm missing?

[Gizzard1533]

Im assuming you've done the adjustment down near the sprocket cover?

[Clanky]

Yes, as per the book.

Beginning to wonder if the new cable is too long beause the adjuster at the clutch hand lever has to be wound almost all the way out to get the correct slack.

[yamaha_george]

C,
I am working from memory here (not good at my age LoL) but are you sure you got the steels the right way round and the tabs on them lined up .
Sorry there is something that is ringing alarms on this topic and that pic of bent tabs, damned if I can get the detail out of the old grey stuff.

[Clanky]

George,

The bike is coming in for the winter now, plenty of bits needing attention. I'll just take the clutch out again and re-check all my work.

If it's ringing alarm bells with you something must be wrong.

[yamaha_george]

Clank,
Read up on the forum about clutch plate replacement some where I think I did this before and got it right. it has to do with all steels being the same way round as each other *(they are stampings so one side has a sharp edge/lip.)*
there is also some correlation between tabs on oem steels and marks on the outer hub casting & on the basket pressure plate.
Just cannot put my finger on it .........................

[DonTZ125]

The steel plates have a bit of a tab to them; these should be distributed evenly and not 'stacked'.

The marks on the pressure plate and hub are a completely different matter; the pressure plate goes on 5 different ways, and 4 of them are wrong. Line up the triangle on the pressure plate with the dimple on the hub, and all is well.

[Clanky]

Thanks,

I know for sure that the pressure plate and hub were lined up correctly using the markings.

I just checked my old OEM steel plates and I can see three slight pips (in a triangular spread) on the outer edge of the rounded side of each plate. I'm guessing these are the tabs people have mentioned. I was not aware of these, nothing about them in the manual, so thanks for the pointers.

When I installed the kit I fitted the EBC steels in no particular way other than putting the rounded edge inwards, I don't recall seeing any tabs or marks on those. I guess I won't get to the bottom of it until I take it all apart again and take a look closer.

I appreciate all the advice.

Nigel

[Clanky]

Took everything apart today (in between the heavy British rain showers). The the friction plates/steels and pressure plate had been installed and aligned correctly first time round. Pulled both the push rods and bearing and all was good so it was re-lubed and re-assembled. At least I can rule this side of things out.

Checked the stack height between the new EBC clutch set and the old one and there is about 1mm less height in the EBC but its still well within spec.

The EBC clutch steels have no special markings just the rounded and rough edges from the pressing process, these are in with the round edge inwards towards the engine.

Tried doing the clutch adjustment again (both ends) but the adjustment at the hand lever is still wound almost all the way out to get the 2-3mm play.

I can't help thinking that it may be that the new pattern part cable is the wrong length. With nothing else left to try I will order an OEM cable and see if that makes any difference.

Here's some pics of the new and old clutch plates



Could not see any tabs on the OEM steels but there are three slight marks on the edges like this

[yamaha_george]

Took everything apart today (in between the heavy British rain showers). The the friction plates/steels and pressure plate had been installed and aligned correctly first time round. Pulled both the push rods and bearing and all was good so it was re-lubed and re-assembled. At least I can rule this side of things out.

Checked the stack height between the new EBC clutch set and the old one and there is about 1mm less height in the EBC but its still well within spec.

The EBC clutch steels have no special markings just the rounded and rough edges from the pressing process, these are in with the round edge inwards towards the engine.

Tried doing the clutch adjustment again (both ends) but the adjustment at the hand lever is still wound almost all the way out to get the 2-3mm play.

I can't help thinking that it may be that the new pattern part cable is the wrong length. With nothing else left to try I will order an OEM cable and see if that makes any difference.

Here's some pics of the new and old clutch plates



Could not see any tabs on the OEM steels but there are three slight marks on the edges like this

Clank,
how odd your steels are not like the set from my bike or Nik's bike if memory serves., mine were not completely round but are "waisted" in one place where the Tab was.

Having double checked your work, it does seem as tho the non-oem cable is "off" the only other thing is you made the same mistake twice although from your reporting that does not seem likely.

[Clanky]

Quick update,

Re routed the clutch cable (originally I followed the way the previous owner had it but it turned out that was wrong) and I tried the adjustments again, I'm happier with the bite point and slack now. I think some of the issues with the gear changing may be down to the shift lever position and possibly the chain being a bit slack, once those have been corrected it should feel better overall.

Thanks for all the help

Nigel

[DonTZ125]

The shift lever position can cause unbelievable issues with changing gears, especially if it's positioned such that it binds on itself or you can't easily get a full throw of the shift mechanism. Definitely something to inspect - and lubricate!