FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Got the new parts put in finally!


Been riding it every day to work Seems to be running really good, this morning was the first ive even had to use the choke to start it, and I think that was just cuz it was like 50 degrees. The other day the fork seals blew. Ive been reading up on doing the work myself. Trying to get ahold of some yamaha progressive springs also, so I can change those while Im in there. My forks dont have drain screws on them, it looks pretty simple to just drill and tap out the spot where they should be once its all apart. Is there anything special or something I need to look out for when drilling and taping them? I got Bel Ray 10 wt fork oil. Im a light guy(150lbs) and ride on some rough country roads mostly, if I go with a thicker wt will I benefit much from it or should I just stick with the 10? It will be about a week before all the parts come in, will I be ok riding with leaking fork seals/ possibly no oil left? or is it time to park it before I damage something?

Here is my list of parts I plan on getting in the next week or so:
yamaha fork seals and dust boots
yamaha progressive springs
Ignition, fuel cap, and seat latch(a flathead screwdriver is my key for everything for now )
ebc HH+ brakes front and rear
double bubble windshield(any suggestions on a brand?)
HJC CL-Max II helmet should be in by the end of the week

You shouldn't need to do any drilling to the forks i dont think. Once you take the top caps off all of the oil will pour out

zero9243 wrote:You shouldn't need to do any drilling to the forks i dont think. Once you take the top caps off all of the oil will pour out

, I wouldn't even think of drilling for drain screws. Mine has them and I never use them when I've changed my fork oil. I just suspend the forks upside down with the caps off and leave it for however long, don't even take the springs out yet so they can have as much old oil come off them as well.

I drilled a set, but it is easier just to pull the caps off and drain them. Either way, it's best to have them removed from the bike.

Get the race tech springs. If you want to spend $250, get the spring / emulator kit. Its really worth the $$$.

I wont drill em then..less tedious work the better. How ofter do you guys change the oil?

delvryboy wrote:Get the race tech springs. If you want to spend $250, get the spring / emulator kit. Its really worth the $$$.

Im currently a high bidder on some new yamaha progressive ones right now for $35, if those fall thru ill go after race tech ones. I seen those gold emulators valves! Pricey little suckers...what do they do, make your forks adjustable?

Just checked the stock rear shock tonight, its currently set at 3...seems like my tail should be a little higher so maybe ill look into changing it also..feel so bad replacing it tho w/ only 8k mi on the bike but im after the smoothest ride I can get overall for now. been driving like a grampa so far till I get a little more experence...took her up to about 100 in about a 1/4 tonight and still havent WOTed it yet. Feels like the the front will lift if I do and I'm just not ready for that yet Havent even sync'd the carbs yet!

Any1 put those fork protectors on? Almost looks like you'd have to put them on before mounting them on the bike. Figured a set of those may give a little more life to the new dust seals. Cant wait to feel how smooth its gonna ride after doing the forks!

Just skip the fork stuff altogether and snap up some newer forks. Then the fun begins! An R6 rear shop can be modded to fit and will ride like a dream compared to the stock fzr shock. Some of the best money you can spend would be there.

Just finished up the bushings for the install tonight. Just needs short dogbones for one and longer for another set. On average it's around $130 for the setup. It'll give you all the adjustment you need.

I agree and disagree. A fork swap can be expensive unless you have patience. However, if you can get a good deal, it's definitely the best bang for the buck.

R6 shock is a no brainer.

Thanks for the advice fellas! Would rather do an r1 fork swap anyways...seems like a better design w/ the inverted forks, plus the ones I'm eyeballing have race tech valves already. I read somewhere on here that 98-01 r1 forks will bolt right up, is this correct? For the r6 rear shock swap ill need bushings and new dogbones I take it?

They won't bolt right up. Check out thatkid's stem swap thread.