FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

I had no spark a month ago, and I decided to replace everything with parts from other members or from ebay, then when it's running I change out parts till it doesn't work and sell the leftovers. Now I have a spark but a very very very weak spark, you have to squint your eyes to see it. I got coils from another member a couple months ago(they look almost brand new), checked connections, got another stator & pickup, got new NGK plug caps, new cr9e plugs (gap checked), got another igniter, and replaced my battery, checked voltage and ground readings at coils and igniter and also cleaned ground connections. My regulator is the only thing I haven't replaced in a while, I'm using a YZF600r regulator. So why is my spark weak?

now that I think about it, the ignition positive is routed through the on/off switch, I could have a bad connection there.

Anyone have any input?

Sounds like the only thing you haven't really tried is the CDI, but I'm not sure that would have anything to do with the spark brightness.

zero9243 wrote:Sounds like the only thing you haven't really tried is the CDI, but I'm not sure that would have anything to do with the spark brightness.

Technically this bike doesn't have a CDI, it would be called a TCI instead, or just an igniter. And I did change it out.

oh gotchya, sorry i missed that. I heard CR8E's have a hotter spark, and maybe playing with the gap would help?

As far as I know..the cr9e is hotter than the cr8e, but I could be wrong.

The "heat rating" of a plug has nothing to do with how hot the insulator and tip runs for given engine conditions. Too hot, and the tip can burn up or cause pre-ignition; too cold and the plug fouls. A "hotter" spark is more a function of the coils, with effects from the spark lead and cap.

It is possible that a bad path in the low-tension circuit (12v to the coil to the TCI to ground) could cause a poor coil charge, leading to a weak spark.

Thanks..maybe i'll run a separate hot wire to the coils. I had a dedicated ground bolted in to the coil mount..I'll put it back and run a dedicated positive too. Then post the results.

The hot wire to the coils REALLY should go through the key and kill switches ...

This is just for troubleshooting

Have some sort of switch or make the jumper easy to pull out.

I'm planning on running it straight to the ignition fuse, since it's switched and fused. I"ll be checking it out tomorrow.

DonTZ125 wrote:The hot wire to the coils REALLY should go through the key and kill switches ...

Are you quite sure on that

DonTZ125 wrote:

is this how the MODS operate here

Only the ones who say silly things and are called on it...