FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hey guys its been awhile since ive posted.
But a few more problems have arisen. Not sure if they have to do with my carbs which im sure need to be synced by now but who knows.
Anyway i have to push start my bike every morning now before work and its becoming a pain in the ass...
The only time i dont have to is if its already warmed up and i turn it off for a few hours.

Even once i get it started, it doesnt want to idle above about 850 rpms and i have to hold the throttle open about halfway for 2 minutes before it finally revs up and runs somewhat normally. It smokes a small bit but then completely stops when its warm.

Anyone have any ideas? I really would like to be able to start my bike normally without looking ridiculous pushing it around the parking lot where i work.
Any help is appreciated! Thanks In Advance Guys

I would check if your choke is operating and see if the passages in the enrichening circuit are plugged, then move on to the pilot screws and passages. The smoke could be burning oil from bad valve seals or rings, do a compression and leak-down test

When was the last time you checked your valve clearances? Hard starting when cold is a classic symptom of tight intakes on these bikes.

How exactly do i do a leak down test?? Im pretty sure the choke is operating.
I have never checked the valve clearances, is it difficult??

To do a leak down test you need a leak down tester, it fills the cyl. With compressed air and gauges how much leaks out through either worn rings or valves. To check the valve clearances you need to pull off the valve covers and measure the gap between the cam lobe and the pot it sits on with a feeler gauge and check it against the recommended values. If you have valves out of spec then the cans will have to come out so you can change the whims under the pots. I would make sure all components of the fuel delivery and ignition systems are functioning properly before screwing with the valves.

CrazySkullCrusher wrote:To do a leak down test you need a leak down tester, it fills the cyl. With compressed air and gauges how much leaks out through either worn rings or valves. To check the valve clearances you need to pull off the valve covers and measure the gap between the cam lobe and the pot it sits on with a feeler gauge and check it against the recommended values. If you have valves out of spec then the cans will have to come out so you can change the whims under the pots. I would make sure all components of the fuel delivery and ignition systems are functioning properly before screwing with the valves.

Alright well I'll look into picking up a tester if it's still acting up after I clean my carbs. I haven't synced them since I've had the bike and it's been about a year so I'm thinking it's definitely time. I just need to find a legit step by step walkthrough so I don't screw anything up ha ha.

Do you think it had anything to do with the emulsion tubes? I'll have to check those out as well. One day when I'm off soon I'll get to work checking.

Thanks