FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Whats up forum peeps! New to bikes, havent been on one since I was a kid and that was just a dirtbike. Just got a 97 FZR600R w/ 7900 mi for free. Its been parked for about 10 years. I was told it was an insurance claim bike that was never fixed. Been so busy lately I havent had much time to work on it, but that will all change friday when I get my 1st house (w/ a 4 car garage!!). Im sooo stoked Now I will finally be able to put them tools to work. Anyways Im rambling...

After cleaning it off with a pressure washer the right side engine cover started leaking all the oil out. Replaced the gasket and changed the oil. Are there any other parts that need greased or attention when doing a routine tune up/oil change? Put a new battery in it,checked the plugs(looked a little on the rich side)cleaned out the carbs. Its gonna need an o-ring kit, the print-o-seal type o-rings are in pretty bad shape. Cleaned out the fuel tank. I got a jar of fuel and ran a lead hose to the fuel pump, it would fire then die...the pump was the culprit, got lucky cleaning it out with carb cleaner and working it back and forth with a rubber tipped blowgun, works like a champ now. She fired right up after that, ran crappy for a min, I had to throttle it/play with the choke to keep her running. Then she started smoothing out. Revved it up to around 5k a few times just cuz I was getting all giggity that it was running. Probably gonna need tweaked after I road test it.

Got new tires comming for $160 shipped. (110/70ZR-17 (54W) Bridgestone Battlax BT016 Front;150/70-18 (70V) Bridgestone Battlax BT45 V-Rated Rear) What a PITA finding the rear tire, I had to go with a lil bit bigger one, hope it will work. The front tire is dry rotted completely thru. The rear looks ok but Im not brave enough to push a 10+ old tire thats been sitting.
Got a new K&N air filter for $44 from the dealer...the parts guy told me I may have to rejet the carb due to more air the K&N will give, cant I just richen the mix!? Even if I have to get some bigger jets, its not a big deal, I gotta tear the carb apart again anyways to re-oring it.

My main goal right now it to get it out on the road to make sure I dont have any trans issues. After I get all the mechanics in top notch Ill go after all the pretty plastics im missing and a fresh paint job. Hoping sat after I move in I can get the tires mounted and put on, then ride it, but its lookin iffy with the new house... Any special tricks/tips to removing the front or rear wheels? I plan on doing brakes front and rear, and changing the fork oil soon. I know I still got a ton of research on this forum to do, helped alot with my carb cleanout job. I figure a couple hundred more and it should be a good reliable bike.

Any tips on what I should be looking, smelling, feeling, or watch like a hawk lil things i should look for on the bike when I 1st take it out. I defiantly dont plan on driving it like a raped ape but do wanna kinda get the rpms up to decarbon anything built up in the cylinders, whats a good rpm to shift @?
Only got 2 pics so far. Ill take some more when I get the new garage and get a lil more organized.

Looks like you got a great deal! Hard to beat free!

It's hard to tell what might happen after sitting for 10 years... The biggest thing is replacing all fluids and it sounds like you're doing that. Use motorcycle specific oil or you may hear funny noises from your clutch. You can run some "Seafoam" through the fuel system. That will clean everything out. I would also get new plugs - they're cheap....

As far as the K&N filter, you should be fine with the stock jets. There is no way to "richen the mix" other than with different sized jets or adjusting the jet needles, except at idle - you can adjust the "Idle Mixture Screws" (located on the bottom of the carbs).

Normally it's not a good idea to have 2 different types of tires, even from the same manufacturer, but it doesn't sound like you'll be putting your knee down anytime soon. The reason is that the profiles of the tires are specific to the model.

while you have the wheels off, (remember to undo the pinch bolt on the front forks!) check the bearings for notchy feeling, regrease if they are ok. I'd be tempted to drop the shock pivot and regrease all of that while the rear is out. 10 year old grease isn't at its best!
A set of paddock stands help with the wheel removal and keep things safe but at a push a couple of axle stands under the swingarm work with a jack under the engine to raise the front.
Check the front fork seals as if it's been sat they could be in need of replacing! If you have to drop the forks, give the head race a check while your at it, saves taking them off twice!
wish people would give me bikes for free!

You can get the BT016 in the 150/70-18 size, great tire I use myself so fitment shouldn't be an issue. The aforementioned seafoam is good as well, I had to use two treatments but it had my fueling smooth as could be. That's a good looking bike and a great looking one for free. The fork rebuild is surprisingly easy and going up in oil weight for the forks will go a long way in improving the handling up front. Your weight and riding style will help dictate what you should use.

replace the voltage regulator asap! get a newer R6 VR

http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=r ... conversion

zero9243 wrote:replace the voltage regulator asap! get a newer R6 VR
http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=r ... conversion

Shameless advertising-type plug - I sell an adaptor harness that makes this upgrade practically plug'n'play.
(See my sig below)

zero9243 wrote:replace the voltage regulator asap! get a newer R6 VR

http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=r ... conversion

It's a 97, there's no need to do that.

pefrey wrote:

zero9243 wrote:replace the voltage regulator asap! get a newer R6 VR

http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=r ... conversion

It's a 97, there's no need to do that.

Ah of course! Good looking out!

Got moved in this weekend and got a chance to get the front tire off. Bearings look like new...nice n smooth. Got about 50% front brakes but only around 10% on the rear so Im gonna save that project for after i get it home. Checked out the VRR and its the newer style with big heat sink. While I was in there I noticed an on/off switch tucked away leading to the rear tail light. Previous owner must have liked outrunning the 5-0 Gonna try and get the tire mounted this week so I can bring it home. So badly wanting to ride this baby to check the trans. If it has no issues Ill do the fork seals and possibly replace the rear shock. Already have 2 qrts of bel ray 10w fork oil. Just hope the bike shop can change this tire tomorrow...
What type of lube/grease should/do you suggest I put on the chain? I was hoping slapping a coat of WD-40 would be ok to ride it home(13 miles) til I can get the proper stuff, or is this a no no?

i wouldn't use wd40, its a grease remover and not really suitable! if you're going to the tyre shop, go get some proper stuff while you're out and about! Failing that if you just need a bit to get home, a small amount of engine oil (not too much as it'l fling everywhere!) should be ok. Or chain saw bar oil, If it's the original chain that's been stood, it may be in need of replacing as things can rust up and sieze if not kept lubed. Which reminds me... must go do mine!

Yeah, WD-40 removes the protective grease. Great for loosening bolts - bad for chains. You can shoot some lithium grease on there for the time being (13 miles) but it seems to let dirt cling, so that's only temporary.

I suggest and use Bel-Ray Super Clean Chain lube :: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/ ... -Lube.aspx

OEM suggests 30W oil for the chain. Just about any motor oil will do for a short 13 mile stint. It will fling though so go sparingly.

Got the tire mounted monday and got it all back together...went to take it for a spin and couldnt get the clutch to engage. Id put it in gear let the clutch out and revved it, felt like it wanted to grab around 4k. Tried adjusting it at the lever up top but would just grind when I try to put it into gear. Just did some reading on here and found the proper way to adjust it at the bottom. Got a new motion pro cable on the way. I hope I can at least adjust the old one up to get it home. Also gonna dump that regular 10-30 I got in there now and put some motorcycle oil in. If the clutch is slipping too bad after I adjust it, Im just gonna truck it home then tear it down. I noticed the oil in the site glass also looks very metallic/grayish after I tried taking it for a spin , hope the clutch slippage didnt burn anything up.

Looks like I gotta do a clutch. Nothing with the adjustment, cant get it to grab at all. O well. I guess for a free bike you cant expect perfect. Good thing I didnt put that new semi synthetic oil in yet. Time for the wallet to get lighter and the trans thread to get a whole lot more views...

Got the clutch out and all the friction disc look pretty good the outer ones showed signs of a little more wear. All the steel plates and pressure plate looked really good. My oil had alot of fuel in it so I ordered a new petcock. EBC kevlar discs with new springs coming also, kinda bogus they dont give you a gasket with the clutch . The old springs measured 32mm. Got some real fine sythetic steel wool stuff, almost like a scrub pad, that im gonna use to clean up the disc flange areas, . I was half tempted to leave it because the wear marks can barely be felt with a fingernail, but I might as well just clean em up. Wanted to do the factory pro shift kit while i was in there since ive been reading how bad 2nd is in most cases,but running low on coin at the moment. Just want to get this thing out for a ride and make sure everything is stable.