FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Air box replacement: When you put the k&n or whatever aftermarket breathers on the carbs, what do you do with the vacuum hoses?

My bike had K&N pods and I switched back to the stock airbox. You lose a little low and mid end power but gain high end. This was proven at the track but not on a dyno.

That being said the crankcase breather tube (is what I assume you mean) I had a K&N generic automotive filter on. I also removed that when I replaced the airbox.

fadlan12 wrote:Air box replacement: When you put the k&n or whatever aftermarket breathers on the carbs, what do you do with the vacuum hoses?

FL,
if you troll thro this forum & the archive there are MANY threads on this subject with VERY few smiles at the end. Tuning pods is a bitch and requires a lot of work & skill. There are however tables of what people used to solve their problems and gadget they used to get better results (flow commanders <?> )

For minimum effort & fuss stick with the stock air box but replace the filter with a K & N version of the mono-filter.

for people doing the yzf tank swap you just need to cut your air box up, plastic weld it back togther and then pick good filter.

screw pods.

pods are worth it if you take the time

remember they work best with a stage 3 Jet kit and a Full Exhaust

The Flo-Commander product does work well and I have had positive results

Everyone here seems to despise pods. Definatly not easy to tune, as I've been putting countless hours into mine and still not 100%. But I did have them running very well on my old motor .

Although this may be biased..this quote comes from factory pro

"Urban legend that "the lowend goes away" when you remove the airbox on the fzr's are utterly and absolutely, completely the result of poor choice in jet kit brand, and after that, tuning ability / desire / motivation - which pretty much comes down to setting float heights and looking at needle jet wear."

abs600fzrr wrote:for people doing the yzf tank swap you just need to cut your air box up, plastic weld it back togther and then pick good filter.

I must have a YZF750 tank at the house, because with the YZF600 motor I have and the fzr400 airbox, the YZF tank fits right over it without any issues.... it's tight, but it does fit.

Course, I'm selling the tank - go figure.

I just traced the 2nd hose, non crankcase hose and its not connected to anything, is it just a drain hose?

megaloxana wrote:Everyone here seems to despise pods. Definatly not easy to tune, as I've been putting countless hours into mine and still not 100%. But I did have them running very well on my old motor .

Although this may be biased..this quote comes from factory pro

"Urban legend that "the lowend goes away" when you remove the airbox on the fzr's are utterly and absolutely, completely the result of poor choice in jet kit brand, and after that, tuning ability / desire / motivation - which pretty much comes down to setting float heights and looking at needle jet wear."

Hi,
On this pods subject from another list :-
<QUOTE> Based on my personal experience, i think you are working against to issues. First, how many miles? This will affect and be an indicator of how worn the needle valves are. Second is tuning with the pod filters. I ended with 115 mains but found that a poor flowing exhaust was more of the culprit.
 
stock airbox and Vance and Hines full pipe yielded stock jetting after replacing needle jets.
 
Pod filters with Vance and Hines 115 mains along with stage 1 jet kit. Stumble at 9K but is great on top.
 
Pod filters with Micron full pipe;115 mains and stage 1 jet kit yielded no more flat spot.
 
Mark Tenn </QUOTE>

HTH