Speedo drive question
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Speedo drive question
Hey everyone, I was working on my brother's bike because he was complaining that the speedometer was no longer working (funny side story he called the dealership and they told him it was an electrical problem >.< ) So after I got done yelling at him for considering going to the dealership, i took the front wheel off and checked out the speedo drive. The two tabs on the ring that go in the wheel had busted off and clogged the gearing in the speedo drive. I was able to clean out the drive and get it to function and turn again, but the ring with the tabs in the front wheel is beyond repair. I suppose the only place to get a replacement would be OEM? I haven't seen any up for sale before.
Upgrades:
- Barnett Clutch------------------------------------------R6 Blue Dots, Front Master Brake Cylinder+Reservoir
WP Adjustable Rear Shock----------------------------Vortex 520 Conversion with RK GB520GXW Chain
V&H Header (4-1)--------------------------------------Swingarm Spool Mounts
Cobra F1r Exhaust Can--------------------------------R6 Voltage Regulator
Flo-Commander with Remote-------------------------Custom Airtech Passenger Seat
Stage 7 Jet kit with Diffuser Caps--------------------Factory Pro Nickel Emulsion Tubes
Wiseco 630 Kit------------------------------------------Custom Frame Slider Mounts
Modking Hydraulic Clutch Kit--------------------------Hella Projection Headlight with Xentec HID Kit (H9 Bulb)
Modking Aluminum Radiator Overflow Bottle--------
Re: Speedo drive question
also, I dont think I've ever replaced one of those, how does it fit into the wheel? Does it have to get pressed in?
Here's the parts fiche pic I found, it's number 5 that broke
http://partstream.arinet.com/Image?arik ... PA2&ariz=3
Here's the parts fiche pic I found, it's number 5 that broke
http://partstream.arinet.com/Image?arik ... PA2&ariz=3
Upgrades:
- Barnett Clutch------------------------------------------R6 Blue Dots, Front Master Brake Cylinder+Reservoir
WP Adjustable Rear Shock----------------------------Vortex 520 Conversion with RK GB520GXW Chain
V&H Header (4-1)--------------------------------------Swingarm Spool Mounts
Cobra F1r Exhaust Can--------------------------------R6 Voltage Regulator
Flo-Commander with Remote-------------------------Custom Airtech Passenger Seat
Stage 7 Jet kit with Diffuser Caps--------------------Factory Pro Nickel Emulsion Tubes
Wiseco 630 Kit------------------------------------------Custom Frame Slider Mounts
Modking Hydraulic Clutch Kit--------------------------Hella Projection Headlight with Xentec HID Kit (H9 Bulb)
Modking Aluminum Radiator Overflow Bottle--------
Speedo drive question
I've had to replace mine twice, you need to make sure you line it up right when reassembling it or you get this. As for replacement it is forced in but has a few pieces above if that come out too. Bad news is they don't come out easy and not usually in one piece, good news is it's an excellent time for your brother to replace his seal. OEM was the only one I found, they may pop up on eBay on occasion but you'll need to replace the seal anyway so it's easier to just order it all together
Re: Speedo drive question
Unless I'm right out of it, the drive ring is just a slip fit. There's a retaining ring and oil seal, #6 & #7, that might need replacing as well.
#5 - 341-25149-00-00; CLUTCH, METER; MSRP $3.82
#6 - 341-25846-00-00; RETAINER, CLUTCH; MSRP $3.17
#7 - 93105-45017-00; OIL SEAL; MSRP $8.39
All should be readily available from the dealership or any on-line bunch. The added cost of shipping for bits this cheap will probably kill off the savings of getting them online.
An electrical problem - with a cable-drive speedo. *sigh*
#5 - 341-25149-00-00; CLUTCH, METER; MSRP $3.82
#6 - 341-25846-00-00; RETAINER, CLUTCH; MSRP $3.17
#7 - 93105-45017-00; OIL SEAL; MSRP $8.39
All should be readily available from the dealership or any on-line bunch. The added cost of shipping for bits this cheap will probably kill off the savings of getting them online.
An electrical problem - with a cable-drive speedo. *sigh*

1989 3LN1 FZR250R, currently stock.
TTR Ignition Systems
TCI Repair and Ignition Transistor Upgrade
VRR Adaptor Harness
YZF600 TCI Adaptor
Running Light Fuse Carrier
TTR Ignition Systems
TCI Repair and Ignition Transistor Upgrade
VRR Adaptor Harness
YZF600 TCI Adaptor
Running Light Fuse Carrier
Re: Speedo drive question
Thanks Will and Don, looks like we'll be ordering some OEM stuff!
Upgrades:
- Barnett Clutch------------------------------------------R6 Blue Dots, Front Master Brake Cylinder+Reservoir
WP Adjustable Rear Shock----------------------------Vortex 520 Conversion with RK GB520GXW Chain
V&H Header (4-1)--------------------------------------Swingarm Spool Mounts
Cobra F1r Exhaust Can--------------------------------R6 Voltage Regulator
Flo-Commander with Remote-------------------------Custom Airtech Passenger Seat
Stage 7 Jet kit with Diffuser Caps--------------------Factory Pro Nickel Emulsion Tubes
Wiseco 630 Kit------------------------------------------Custom Frame Slider Mounts
Modking Hydraulic Clutch Kit--------------------------Hella Projection Headlight with Xentec HID Kit (H9 Bulb)
Modking Aluminum Radiator Overflow Bottle--------
Re: Speedo drive question
Any tips on getting the pieces off?_Will_ wrote:I've had to replace mine twice, you need to make sure you line it up right when reassembling it or you get this. As for replacement it is forced in but has a few pieces above if that come out too. Bad news is they don't come out easy and not usually in one piece, good news is it's an excellent time for your brother to replace his seal. OEM was the only one I found, they may pop up on eBay on occasion but you'll need to replace the seal anyway so it's easier to just order it all together
Upgrades:
- Barnett Clutch------------------------------------------R6 Blue Dots, Front Master Brake Cylinder+Reservoir
WP Adjustable Rear Shock----------------------------Vortex 520 Conversion with RK GB520GXW Chain
V&H Header (4-1)--------------------------------------Swingarm Spool Mounts
Cobra F1r Exhaust Can--------------------------------R6 Voltage Regulator
Flo-Commander with Remote-------------------------Custom Airtech Passenger Seat
Stage 7 Jet kit with Diffuser Caps--------------------Factory Pro Nickel Emulsion Tubes
Wiseco 630 Kit------------------------------------------Custom Frame Slider Mounts
Modking Hydraulic Clutch Kit--------------------------Hella Projection Headlight with Xentec HID Kit (H9 Bulb)
Modking Aluminum Radiator Overflow Bottle--------
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- 5000+ Posts
- Posts: 5853
- Joined: Fri May 09, 2008 8:46 am
- Location: west london UK
Re: Speedo drive question
hi,
we could never seem to able to oder those special tabbed washers that go between the lugs in the wheel hub and the speedo lower mechanism cutouts. I went down to the hard ware store bought some thick penny washers and filed them to suit. Tedious yes but better than no speedo.. My FZR & two RD's currently has a hand made drive washer system in because the PO's re-assembled wrongly and flaturned the crap out of the OEM ones.
we could never seem to able to oder those special tabbed washers that go between the lugs in the wheel hub and the speedo lower mechanism cutouts. I went down to the hard ware store bought some thick penny washers and filed them to suit. Tedious yes but better than no speedo.. My FZR & two RD's currently has a hand made drive washer system in because the PO's re-assembled wrongly and flaturned the crap out of the OEM ones.
Re: Speedo drive question
SONOFA! Not what i wanted to hear george!yamaha_george wrote:hi,
we could never seem to able to oder those special tabbed washers that go between the lugs in the wheel hub and the speedo lower mechanism cutouts. I went down to the hard ware store bought some thick penny washers and filed them to suit. Tedious yes but better than no speedo.. My FZR & two RD's currently has a hand made drive washer system in because the PO's re-assembled wrongly and flaturned the crap out of the OEM ones.

Upgrades:
- Barnett Clutch------------------------------------------R6 Blue Dots, Front Master Brake Cylinder+Reservoir
WP Adjustable Rear Shock----------------------------Vortex 520 Conversion with RK GB520GXW Chain
V&H Header (4-1)--------------------------------------Swingarm Spool Mounts
Cobra F1r Exhaust Can--------------------------------R6 Voltage Regulator
Flo-Commander with Remote-------------------------Custom Airtech Passenger Seat
Stage 7 Jet kit with Diffuser Caps--------------------Factory Pro Nickel Emulsion Tubes
Wiseco 630 Kit------------------------------------------Custom Frame Slider Mounts
Modking Hydraulic Clutch Kit--------------------------Hella Projection Headlight with Xentec HID Kit (H9 Bulb)
Modking Aluminum Radiator Overflow Bottle--------
-
- 5000+ Posts
- Posts: 5853
- Joined: Fri May 09, 2008 8:46 am
- Location: west london UK
Re: Speedo drive question
Z,zero9243 wrote:SONOFA! Not what i wanted to hear George!maybe that's just an issue on the other side of the pond? (crosses fingers)
nah that particular ineptitude seems common no matter where . the FZR is UK bought ,one RD was a Candian market import and the other is German market import. I also recollect one of the first suzuki 1K's I had in Florida had a problem after loosing a front tyre & the tyre shop not knowing what they were doing (small town in Georgia called Indian Springs)buggered up the drive washer.
Re: Speedo drive question
I just pry it all out with a flat head screw driver, there's a lip on the wheel above the bearing that you can get under. I seem to recall the rubber seal coming off first but it's been a while, they're like fork seals with the rubber spring on the inside piece. Once you're in there it really is just working it out. You'll see the notch in the wheel itself where the tabbed piece sits to keep it in line with the wheel, you'll need to knock everything down to get it to sit in that spot once it's all assembled. Best way is just with a socket (deep well to protect those fingers), tap it all in working your way around to keep it all even.Don't forget to check the condition of the bearings while you're in there. Mine were more than a little worn when I got around to them.zero9243 wrote:Any tips on getting the pieces off?_Will_ wrote:I've had to replace mine twice, you need to make sure you line it up right when reassembling it or you get this. As for replacement it is forced in but has a few pieces above if that come out too. Bad news is they don't come out easy and not usually in one piece, good news is it's an excellent time for your brother to replace his seal. OEM was the only one I found, they may pop up on eBay on occasion but you'll need to replace the seal anyway so it's easier to just order it all together