FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hey everybody, I wasnt around much before but im back! My bike has been sitting for two years, when it was running regularly I keept it up prety nice. Always running clean gass, keeping the jets clean changing the oil etc. The bike wasnt "wintered" (how can you winter a bike in FL haha) properly and I know it needs new gass and oil, but my question is what cautions or should I take if any, to get the jets unclogged and to make sure the gass lines, or carbs dont have any build up of anything harmful. I dont want to start it up and have any trash get sucked thru and end up in the combustion chamber. maybe a carb rebuild? or just cleaning?

Clean and inspect:
1. The fuel cap, including the little vent (a fouled vent will draw a vacuum, leading to fuel starvation)
2. The outlet screen(s) at the bottom of the tank
3. The fuel filter
4. The fuel pump electrical connections
5. The battery and battery terminals. Check the electrolyte levels and charge
6. The airbox, including all inlets, passages and snorkels. Service the K&N filter

Strip and clean the carbs, spraying cleaner through the passages. Remove all rubber bits before using any cleaners. Use fishing line, not piano wire, to remove any stubborn blockages. Do the carbs one at a time to avoid spare part syndrome (or the dreaded "Now WHERE did that go?!"). Bench sync the carbs before remounting, then live sync once up and running.

Before starting the bike to warm the oil to drain it, sniff it for gas - mis-set or malfunctioning parts can allow gas to seep into the engine oil. Drain it cold & change the filter if there's any chance of contamination; fill, run for 5 minutes, then drain and change filter again. Oil and filters are MUCH cheaper than replacing crank bearings.

+1 on that especially the air box! found a large spider and its millions of little babies inhabiting mine after a while of storage! always useful to lay a sheet of something soft and light in colour on the worktop when removing bits, the softness stops tham springing all over the place, and being light means you can see the little buggers!

Might be worth dropping the HT leads and turning it over without spark to get the oil through the engine before you run it as it would have been able to settle at the lowest points.

"Might be worth dropping the HT leads and turning it over without spark "
If you mean, disconnect the spark plug wires, w/o grounding them you may damage the ignitor box if you spin the motor, something I was once told by a still-working Yamaha shop mechanic.

If you want to turn the motor over with the HT leads unplugged, unplug the LT leads (the pretty coloured ones) at the coils - no current flows, no damage to the coils.

din't know that! guess i was just lucky not to do any damage then!

The TCI ignition builds and builds a magnetic field in the coils by allowing current to flow through the primary winding and the ignition control transistor. When the TCI chops the current flow, the field collapses and all that magnetic energy turns back into electrical energy. This 'flyback' pulse is what gets boosted in voltage in the secondary winding so it jumps the spark gap.

If the spark plug isn't connected, that flyback pulse has nowhere to go but back through the control transistor.

Modern ignition-use IGBTs and Power Darlingtons are pretty rugged. The 20-yo transistors in your TCI box are 1) not modern, and 2) 20 years old. Treat them gently, or you'll be shipping your box to me for an overhaul!

Replace the coolant and brake fluid as well as all the other fluids that have been mentioned

OK cool and thanks for all the replies, looks like I have some work do to but that work is fun!

About getting the oil all in the engine, in the right spots. I plan on changing it before starting it up or tuning it over. Will that be enough to get it in the right places or should I still turn it over a few times?