FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

So I bought this 93 FZR600 last summer guy sold it to me claiming it had no problems...well as i rode it home it died..there was a problem with the charging.i continued to ride it last summer for about 20 minutes then I would recharge it. well during the winter i changed the solenoid,rectifier and stator. I still got no charge. Then last week I went to ride it and had to jump it. as I was riding it, it completely died...i thought it was dirty carbs but when i went to hit the start button there was no turning clicking anything...it almost sounds as if the kill switch is on...i charged it and still nothing when i hit the start button....How do you guys think i should tackle these problems please i really want to ride this bike this summer just imagine having a sunny day outside and you just stare at your unmovable motorcycle

oh and i am able to turn the key and all the other electricals work (headlights, turn signals, horn)

CHECK THIS OUT..i just tried starting it with the kickstand up and the starter tries to turn but when the kickstand is down its dead...how does that make sense?

It's a safety feature. The idea is to keep you from riding around with the kickstand down. There's a switch there that might be dirty. It's probably not the last of your problems, but worth a look at least.

ok im REALLLLLY embarassed...my bike wanst in neutral....but back to this charging issue...does anyone have any advice on the steps to diagnose the problem...

lildifrank wrote:ok im REALLLLLY embarassed...my bike wanst in neutral....but back to this charging issue...does anyone have any advice on the steps to diagnose the problem...

L,
well I have it on GOOD authority that this is an easy mistake to make

In the WIKI there is a HOW-To for trouble shooting electrics.with a flow chart, you will need a multi meter for electrical testing Voltages/ continuity /etc. a cheapo at about 5 bucks in Walmart is good enough.

L & YG both need to shake their heads - did either of you geniuses try pulling the clutch lever in? This would have overridden both the neutral switch and the sidestand switch!

DonTZ125 wrote:L & YG both need to shake their heads - did either of you geniuses try pulling the clutch lever in? This would have overridden both the neutral switch and the sidestand switch!

Don,
over the years I have learned the various bike safe circuits and tend to abide by the thoughts of why they are there.

The joke is that I actually dreamed why the bike would not function, got the correct answer, woke up and went and fixed it.

Eat, sleep motor bikes me mostly because I have not mastered walking on water yet !!!!

well i measured my battery at 3000 rpms its showing at 12.65 volts and slowly decresing....i tried reading my stator but not sure if i should set it to volts but the reading jumps all over the place...when i try to read my VR it doesnt move its at like .1 any thoughts?

12.65 is quite low. Check your battery for low / empty cells, as this can indicate damaged plates.

Measure your alternator voltage on AC volts, unplugged and running, white to white to white. Measure the resistance, switched off; should be 0.31-0.37 ohms.

If this gives you reasonable readings, then your VR has likely failed low - still annoying, but better than failing high, which takes the rest of your electricals with it!

bought the battery yesterday so it cant be but tell me more about checking the stator im not familiar with this


not familiar with using ac. what part is it on the multimeter? (i know how to check volts but thats about it)?
and keep the bike turned off with the key turned to on? and i should get .31 to .37

when i did try to read my stator earlier today im not sure what setting it was at but i had the bike running at 3000 rpms and it whatever setting i had my multimeter at was jumping from like 2.2 to 6.5.

im starting to get frustrated this is what i did all last summer...maybe i will try to find a guy at this yamaha dealer and see if he will help me out

and one other thing right now i dont have turn signals or front headlight hooked up....that couldnt really cause a problem right cause r from before when i did have it hooked up the bike still wouldnt charge

L,
ok slow down take a deep breath, getting frustrated is no good.

Most multi meters have 3 sections on the big rotary switch
1} DC indicated by a straight line (some times dotted above an un broken line )
2} AC shown as wave
3} Resistance shown by the sign Omega which looks like an up side down horseshoe

with DC the black lead of the meter goes to the frame & the red lead to the wire you want to test for voltage level.

with AC (as in the alternator output) you use red and black leads on two wires (alternator wires are white into the regulator block )

With both of the above the bike can be running ( for AC it must be running )

when you are measuring for resistance the engine must be switched off ie not running or you can blow your meter !

Sorry if I am teaching "grandma to suck eggs" but you sounded lost