FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hi Ive been working on a tail swap on my 90 fzr 600 and i was going to put pods on it. I know about putting pipes the same length as the ones in the airbox on the carb and pod but do I need to Rejet? The guy I purchased my bike from said it was jetted for the pipe on it which is a yoshimura pipe. I dont know what stage that would be. And anyone else have any other hints as to do this right that would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

How far is river falls from Wauconda, IL? You should bring your bike to me and I will tell you a story about jetting and syncing and pods. Ill tell you a story about power coating but that gets to be a costly one.

rustyabiding wrote:Hi Ive been working on a tail swap on my 90 fzr 600 and i was going to put pods on it. I know about putting pipes the same length as the ones in the airbox on the carb and pod but do I need to Rejet? The guy I purchased my bike from said it was jetted for the pipe on it which is a yoshimura pipe. I dont know what stage that would be. And anyone else have any other hints as to do this right that would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

R,
OK lets start at the beginning,
Yamaha designed the pipe & jetting round the engine, by the PO putting on aYoshi the bike is no longer working the way it was designed so he had it re- jetted.

If you put on Pods with the correct inlet length NOTHING has then changed from the way it behaves now, if it works well now, then you have no worries about having to re-jet by going to pods with correct length tubes

YG - with respect for your experience, I disagree. If you change anything, including going from a stock OEM paper filter to a K&N drop in filter element, you will need to rejet for optimum performance. These carbs are extremely sensitive to everything.

^^^ I agree with the above. If you change the amount of flow available then you need to re-jet, it is not just a matter of tuned length.

Bear in mind that different arrangements can also provide stronger signals at the jet orifice, flowing more fuel through the same jet size. Some racing two strokes were famous for wanting SMALLER jets for increased air flow...

Hi,
well I have an aftermarket slip on that required a minor needle change, then just to prove my memory as being accurate I tried Pods that "Cattle Trucked" the state of tune (as expected ) so I then used the trick I remembered of the inlet plastic tube inside the airbox rubbers with the Pods mounted on the end, suddenly " un Cattle Trucked".
I did have to resynch the carbs as moving them upset the cables and the butterfly settings slightly.

I can ONLY speak from personal experience.............................. after that YMMV

yamaha_george wrote: I can ONLY speak from personal experience.............................. after that YMMV

Amen, brother.

So should I try without rejetting first and go from there? I still have a few months before its warm enough to ride, so i plan on rebuilding my carbs now too. Thatkid Wauconda, IL is about 6 hours away so thanks for the offer but a little far.

BTW all these comments are really helping thanks all!

rustyabiding wrote:So should I try without rejetting first and go from there? I still have a few months before its warm enough to ride, so i plan on rebuilding my carbs now too. Thatkid Wauconda, IL is about 6 hours away so thanks for the offer but a little far.

RB,
At this point in time (since the bike riding weather has not arrived yet in your part of the world) you can Charge the battery and just check the bike starts first, then indeed do the Mod with Pods & plastic tubes.Then be sure to check the bike starts with the Mod done.

After that troll the WIKI for any other Mod you may want to do,
OR
learn why this Mod is like it is by listening to Mr. Vizard's lectures on the web that I posted under the Gear Head and Guru section under:-

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=7650


Any of you running OEM Air Filters should watch the early lectures very revealing !!!!!!