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I'm about to tear into my carbs to give them what will probably be the first cleaning of their lives. Do I need to/should I buy rebuild kits or can I reuse all of my gaskets, o-rings, etc?

blensen wrote:I'm about to tear into my carbs to give them what will probably be the first cleaning of their lives. Do I need to/should I buy rebuild kits or can I reuse all of my gaskets, o-rings, etc?

New is safer mate, old will most likely fail especially O rings ,
take a tip do ONE carb at a time leave them attached as a cluster .that way if you screw up and do not know where some thing goes you can reference it to a carb that is still assembled .

Might only need the carb cleaner, I've never bought a rebuild kit.

Be careful taking the carb's apart there's a few small parts that are easily lost/misplaced. When you remove the mixture screws, there's the screw, spring, small metal washer, then a small o-ring. Under the main jet there's also a small rubber o-ring ensure those parts are removed and stored safely before you blast and airline or carb cleaner through the passage's. The main and starter jets have the same thread so don't get those mixed up.

Take a look at the parts fiche page to familiarise yourself with the parts (expand the pic) http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-fzr600rf-no ... /B-05.html

I'd buy the gaskets, o-rings, etc. It's real easy to muck'em up on the tear down side of the process. I'd also invest in J.I.S screwdrivers. These are ALMOST the same as phillips. A JIS screw is denoted by a small round circle on the screwhead, off to the edge. If its the first time the carbs have been apart a Phillips will almost certainly strip the screw head. Also, If I'm keeping the bike, I replace the JIS/Phillips head screws with Allen heads. They'll cost about 10 cents a piece at a machine shop, and you'll never have to worry with stripping a head again

+1 on replacing the screws with allen bolts.

inspecting your seals\gaskets will let you know. if they seem too worn down to properly form a seal, replace them. and be sure to keep carb cleaner away from gaskets and other plastic and rubber bits.

Liquid gasket will work as long as you're super neat with it. if any gets loose in your carbs it could gum the small holes up or cause a float to stick.

mawler wrote:Take a look at the parts fiche page to familiarise yourself with the parts (expand the pic)

Take Mawler's advice one step further and download the graphics, enlarge them and print them. Keep some copies taped above your work area for reference.

If you get the rubber washers out and they look to be in decent shape, an overnight bath in Armor-All will give some them some new life.

Don't work in an area where, if your parts fall they go missing. There are some tiny things that can easily roll away. You can do the work in a low profile pan with edges - something like a Washing Machine Pan works well. http://www.amazon.com/Oatey-34051-Washi ... B000H5SHWG

ragedigital wrote: something like a Washing Machine Pan works well. http://www.amazon.com/Oatey-34051-Washi ... B000H5SHWG

RD,
did not know about those but I do have my own which are stainless steel which resists most crap / cleaners etc not sure the plastic version is any good against the harshness of carb cleaner ????
A mate of mine has an old Morgue table (also stainless) he uses as a work top for cleaning on :-}

you wont know if u have to buy new float bowl gaskets till you take them apart most times you can reuse them as long as they still stick up past the mating surface, and record the float bowl height on each carb before you tear it down and clip position if you have adjustable needles so that way you have your old setups base line. and the best crap i have found to clean carbs is yamaha carb dip in a metal container with some heat everything comes out shiny brand new looking nice and clean and some PJ1 contact cleaner to clean the residue off

Don't you just hate it when you make a post, sleep on it then realise you missed something? (happens to me lot's)

Bone stock carb's have a float height of 22mm on all four carb's, over the years the float heights will vary carb to carb, and must be checked/reset to there stock value.

yamaha_george wrote:did not know about those but I do have my own which are stainless steel which resists most crap / cleaners etc not sure the plastic version is any good against the harshness of carb cleaner ????

Hard to tell. The spray nozzle and straw on those carb cleaner cans are plastic...

Do they sell a gasket and o-ring set? Thinking about going through and cleaning my carbs

Kyle844 wrote:Do they sell a gasket and o-ring set? Thinking about going through and cleaning my carbs

Yes there is a guy in Florida also called George on EbayMotors.com
I will see if I can dif up my details from buying from him.

ragedigital wrote:

yamaha_george wrote:did not know about those but I do have my own which are stainless steel which resists most crap / cleaners etc not sure the plastic version is any good against the harshness of carb cleaner ????

Hard to tell. The spray nozzle and straw on those carb cleaner cans are plastic...

RD, yes they were specifically designed (I hope) to withstand the chemicals in the can, but a washing machine only has soap & water to contend with.

Yes there is a guy in Florida also called George on EbayMotors.com
I will see if I can dif up my details from buying from him.

The "George" that YG refers to also has a web site store in addition to E-bay. Not everything in his site is posted on E-bay. Bought a set of intake boots from him. Very helpful, fast delivery and a great price. Check it out.

http://store03.prostores.com/servlet/ge ... StoreFront

You'll also want to check the in-coming fuel connection seals which between each carb in line with the fuel "TEE". The carbs will have to be separated for this. Mine where in BAD shape and seeping fuel. Unfortunately can only be bought from Yamaha and pricey too.