Hi I am sure this is well documented but I can not seem to find the thread.
What oil and weight do you guys use? I am not sure Yamalube 20-40 is really the best. I live in Phoenix and its still warm but I should be expecting to ride in 60-80F weather now. I found motorcycle oil at Autozone I think is Castol and is $3.99/qt but the cost is not a big deal only need 2.5 qts. I am wondering more about weights and if anyone uses SAE motor oil and if that is an issue for the wet clutch system I presume I have in my 93 FZR600.
Motor oils
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fizzer6hundred
- 50+ Posts
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- Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2010 1:23 am
- Location: Phoenix AZ USA
Motor oils
1994 FZR 600 White/Blue/Yellow. Been stored for several years and had 12K miles on it now. Working to get it back on the road.
Located in Phoenix AZ
Located in Phoenix AZ
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ragedigital
- 4000+ Posts
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- Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 9:30 am
- Location: Northwest St. Louis
Re: Motor oils
Thanks for joining and participating in the most "active" FZR Community on the internet!
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fizzer6hundred
- 50+ Posts
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2010 1:23 am
- Location: Phoenix AZ USA
Re: Motor oils
Is there a special Mobile 1 or are all OK with a wet clutch?
1994 FZR 600 White/Blue/Yellow. Been stored for several years and had 12K miles on it now. Working to get it back on the road.
Located in Phoenix AZ
Located in Phoenix AZ
-
ragedigital
- 4000+ Posts
- Posts: 4153
- Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 9:30 am
- Location: Northwest St. Louis
Re: Motor oils
It'll say "Mobil 1 Motorcycle oil". Do not use automotive Mobil 1 as your clutch will slip.
Thanks for joining and participating in the most "active" FZR Community on the internet!
Re: Motor oils
I use Valvoline Durablend (semi-synthetic) in 5w30 (or 0W30 when I can find it). I am a fair weather rider (rarely below 40 degrees). Even in fair weather though the lighter weight oils flow faster on start up and lubricate better IMO. Lighter oil also causes less drag on the motor. I pay about $2.50 a quart (5 quart bottle) and change it usually twice a year.
If you have a favorite motorcycle only oil that is great, but regardless make sure you avoid "Energy Conserving" oils like the plague.
If you have a favorite motorcycle only oil that is great, but regardless make sure you avoid "Energy Conserving" oils like the plague.
Re: Motor oils
I've heard Honda VFR riders rave about standard 15W40 oil on their bikes with 100000 miles. They claim it gives better protection in the heat. I've always used non-motorcyle oil. Theres really no difference, except you need to avoid using any oils with friction modifiers, or any from API Rating SJ thru SM.
A great discussion http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archiv ... 86075.html
Hear, hear, on the energy conserving oils, as mentioned.
A great discussion http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archiv ... 86075.html
Hear, hear, on the energy conserving oils, as mentioned.
Re: Motor oils
You also have to be careful with oil in general...here is a few important facts we'll start off with:
a 10w40 means it's a 10 weight oil that flows like a 40w oil at operating temperature.
a 20w 40 means it's a 20 weight oil that flows like a 40w oil at operating temperature.
So what does this all mean to you?
Let's keep the operation of the camshaft riding on the lifters in mind during this explanation.
To most people this doesn't mean much, but you should follow the factory manual for a very very good reason. It recommends 10w40 in the cold and 20w40 during the summer.
The main parts of your oil is resistance to flow, and secondary protection. I will explain these in a little better detail:
Contrary to popular belief you actually -need- this resistance, and here's why: When two objects have a film of oil in between them the resistance of the oil to flow is what keeps the parts "floating". By floating I mean there is a very thin layer of oil between them, and we're relying on that oil to resist flowing out of the friction point, and to resist shearing. This is the primary protection stage, and very very important! The main reasons you want the superior weighted, TEMPERATURE SPECIFIC oil is so that you can have enough protection at start to where you don't lose your primary protection, and so you don't start on your secondary protection! Most engines only need so light of oils because of how the journals store the oils, and how the heads are basically already soaked when you go to start your bike, car, etc.
The "secondary" protection usually ends up in the cost of the oil. These have neutralizers in them, additives to create protective film, and zinc metals. These metals offer the secondary, emergency protection that your engine needs when your oil has been flowed, or sheered out - and it DOES happen. If it never happened, then our engines would never wear. The neutralizers take car of nasty acids, and oxidizers.
The single largest problem with oils in the shared-oil system of a motorcycle is shearing, so please keep your weights as close as possible, and use your recommended oil! If not you will have more shearing, and faster degradation of oil and parts at all points of engine operation - from start up to running it hard. The closer the weight, the less effective weight an oil will shear down to!
a 10w40 means it's a 10 weight oil that flows like a 40w oil at operating temperature.
a 20w 40 means it's a 20 weight oil that flows like a 40w oil at operating temperature.
So what does this all mean to you?
Let's keep the operation of the camshaft riding on the lifters in mind during this explanation.
To most people this doesn't mean much, but you should follow the factory manual for a very very good reason. It recommends 10w40 in the cold and 20w40 during the summer.
The main parts of your oil is resistance to flow, and secondary protection. I will explain these in a little better detail:
Contrary to popular belief you actually -need- this resistance, and here's why: When two objects have a film of oil in between them the resistance of the oil to flow is what keeps the parts "floating". By floating I mean there is a very thin layer of oil between them, and we're relying on that oil to resist flowing out of the friction point, and to resist shearing. This is the primary protection stage, and very very important! The main reasons you want the superior weighted, TEMPERATURE SPECIFIC oil is so that you can have enough protection at start to where you don't lose your primary protection, and so you don't start on your secondary protection! Most engines only need so light of oils because of how the journals store the oils, and how the heads are basically already soaked when you go to start your bike, car, etc.
The "secondary" protection usually ends up in the cost of the oil. These have neutralizers in them, additives to create protective film, and zinc metals. These metals offer the secondary, emergency protection that your engine needs when your oil has been flowed, or sheered out - and it DOES happen. If it never happened, then our engines would never wear. The neutralizers take car of nasty acids, and oxidizers.
The single largest problem with oils in the shared-oil system of a motorcycle is shearing, so please keep your weights as close as possible, and use your recommended oil! If not you will have more shearing, and faster degradation of oil and parts at all points of engine operation - from start up to running it hard. The closer the weight, the less effective weight an oil will shear down to!
Re: Motor oils
holy hell Rich! havent seen you in forever!
back to your regularly scheduled argument
I did that.
"(12:38:42) sweekster: i work when i want because i'm sweeks"
"(12:38:42) sweekster: i work when i want because i'm sweeks"
Re: Motor oils
LOL! I haven't been around forever. I saw on the Fizzer list that the Archives finally died and I decided to see how the FZR crowd is doing.Target30 wrote:
back to your regularly scheduled argument
