FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hey guys,

I'm currently running 0.85kg/mm Racetech springs up front, and since most of my riding is street, I find it a bit stiff sometimes. I'm about 185lbs with full gear.

I'm curious for those of you that have the Progressive springs, how is the ride? Does it only come in one rate? Since the RaceTech's are not progressively would, I wonder how much of a difference that makes.

Let me know your experiences.

mszilves wrote:Hey guys,

I'm currently running 0.85kg/mm Racetech springs up front, and since most of my riding is street, I find it a bit stiff sometimes. I'm about 185lbs with full gear.

I'm curious for those of you that have the Progressive springs, how is the ride? Does it only come in one rate? Since the RaceTech's are not progressively would, I wonder how much of a difference that makes.

Let me know your experiences.

MSZ,
Pro-tech 0.85 kg/mm springs are linear rate (big bump/little bump it will react the same way.Unless you are running PD valves (cartridge Emulators they will appear to be too stiff as the stock oil settings and rebound system is not designed to work at 0.85 but at 0.46 <?>.

If you buy a set of either race tech emulators (169 USD + shipping ) or a set of YSSusa PDValves ( not sure what you would be quoted but is model 310 you should look for ) you will have a far superior ride I have both in 2 different bikes and they are a real joy (the SV rider club say it is a must just as we do about VR's <BG> ) Be aware the mod to the forks is PERMANENT unless you want to weld back holes and re-drill to close tolerance.

A word of WARNING here PD valves & cart emulators CANNOT be used properly with Progressive springs !!!!!!

Ok progressive springs are supposed to be stiff enough not to bottom out on big bumps and weak enough to smooth out little bumps.
The thing I found frustrating was that no-one would ever quote what the various spring rates incorporated in the progressive spring were.

So you had to rely on some spotty oink saturday kid on the sales desk giving you a progressive spring for your bike and even that over 5 different brands varied by 28% in one case I tested out. The lengths varied 10% wire diam was 16% variance according to my notes on that bike.

OK lecture done !!

now help the old man out here tell me:-

Either the O/D of the stock springs & their length
OR

the I/D of the fork tube and the spring length.




I had a chat with TWO spring making companies that specialise in prototype work and both said they are prepared to make fork springs to any spec (rear shocks as well) for approx 50UKP a pair in the case of fork springs and about 40ukp rear (this includes using their design team to figure out what is what )

Now considering the hell I have been thro for my linear springs (walletdraggers & RT +Ohlins + Maxton+ Hagaon etc ad nausium ) being so un helpful ) we now have another 2 sources of FZR springs YES PLUS we can re-spring any rear shock we care to use RESULT

Great info George! I didn't mention in my original post, but in fact I am running the racetech emulators as well, set to 2 turns as per their instructions. I drilled the compression holes in the rod per their instructions also, and set everything up properly according to racetech. In light of your great info, I think I'm going to take a look at my front sag, which I think is right now at the small end of the proper range. I might give it a bit less preload (maybe a few mm) and see how that works out.

Also, my Fox Twin Clicker should be here tomorrow (rage, if you're reading this, thanks again), so I'll be experimenting with the proper setup. George, I may ask for your help in sourcing a replacement spring for the Fox shock, since the rate is unknown on the current spring, and depending on what happens to the rear when I set it up, I may need a different rate shock spring.

I will try and take those spring measurements for you in the next couple of days.

On my other 2 Fox Shocks, they used Hyperco springs. I do believe that when ModKing rebuilt someone elses shock, he too used a Hyperco spring.

I would PM ModKing and he can probably help with sizing.

wrong springs

he's talking front forks

mszilves wrote:Also, my Fox Twin Clicker should be here tomorrow (rage, if you're reading this, thanks again), so I'll be experimenting with the proper setup. George, I may ask for your help in sourcing a replacement spring for the Fox shock, since the rate is unknown on the current spring, and depending on what happens to the rear when I set it up, I may need a different rate shock spring.

haunter wrote:wrong springs

he's talking front forks

Read much? ha!

ragedigital wrote:

mszilves wrote:Also, my Fox Twin Clicker should be here tomorrow (rage, if you're reading this, thanks again), so I'll be experimenting with the proper setup. George, I may ask for your help in sourcing a replacement spring for the Fox shock, since the rate is unknown on the current spring, and depending on what happens to the rear when I set it up, I may need a different rate shock spring.

haunter wrote:wrong springs

he's talking front forks

Read much? ha!

Lol, too funny!

BTW, thanks for that info rage.

mszilves wrote:Great info George! I didn't mention in my original post, but in fact I am running the racetech emulators as well, set to 2 turns as per their instructions. I drilled the compression holes in the rod per their instructions also, and set everything up properly according to racetech. In light of your great info, I think I'm going to take a look at my front sag, which I think is right now at the small end of the proper range. I might give it a bit less preload (maybe a few mm) and see how that works out.

Also, my Fox Twin Clicker should be here tomorrow (rage, if you're reading this, thanks again), so I'll be experimenting with the proper setup. George, I may ask for your help in sourcing a replacement spring for the Fox shock, since the rate is unknown on the current spring, and depending on what happens to the rear when I set it up, I may need a different rate shock spring.

I will try and take those spring measurements for you in the next couple of days.

The info I have on race tech for the FZR 600 is that it should be 3 turns on the spring
15 wt oil and 120mm of air gap above the oil. The top rebound oil hole (the one up by the boss of the damper rod ) must NOT be altered !

I can always ask these guys about your fox clicker costs on springs to suit.

The measurement info is critical as time is not on my side the bike is up for Govt inspection in 5 weeks and its 3 weeks delivery if I do decide in using RT which is why I NEED to get these brits busy as delivery is 24 Hours from scratch to delivery on site. So you can see this is getting critical.
Mucho Thanks

yamaha_george wrote:
The info I have on race tech for the FZR 600 is that it should be 3 turns on the spring
15 wt oil and 120mm of air gap above the oil.

Really? The doc that I got with the emulators from racetech said 2 turns, 130mm air gap, and 15W oil for the FZR6.

mszilves wrote:

yamaha_george wrote:
The info I have on race tech for the FZR 600 is that it should be 3 turns on the spring
15 wt oil and 120mm of air gap above the oil.

Really? The doc that I got with the emulators from racetech said 2 turns, 130mm air gap, and 15W oil for the FZR6.

My info is from a suspension tuner and do not forget all of these figures bandied about are ball park since we all have our riding style & preferences any way.

Once you get into these "posh" multi-choice scenarios with twiddleabilty to every thing you change one thing at atime and ride the SAME stretch to keep a constant.
I can tell you from experience that it is ALL very subjective.

After riding my FZR on possibly 15 year old springs with God knows what weight being carried mine are so soft as to bottom out with just me on board at 180 lbs.

I have no doubt what so ever that riding 0.85 springs with what ever settings is going to seem like I have welded the forks up at first