FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

I recently installed a new battery in my 1997 FZR600. I bought the bike 2 years ago, and it came with a 2 year old battery. The battery was never strong, even after proper testing / maintenance / charging. So the battery was 4+ years old, and needed to be replaced.

I installed the new battery and followed this Charging System Test)
http://fzronline.com/wiki/lib/exe/detai ... sion_3.jpg

Here are my results, using a digital Multimeter:

Battery Voltage with ignition off: 12.7 Volts DC
Battery Voltage at 3000 RPM: 12.46 Volts DC
Disconnect VR, Test Voltage across all combos of white wires @ 3000 RPM: About 47.5 Volts AC for each combo

I thought that the VR was going bad, so I replace the VR and got these results (of course only the 2nd figure changed)

Battery Voltage with ignition off: 12.7 Volts DC
Battery Voltage at 3000 RPM: 13.23 Volts DC
Disconnect VR, Test Voltage across all combos of white wires @ 3000 RPM: About 47.5 Volts AC for each combo

Can someone offer me advice? Could the stator be generating the right voltage, but insufficient amps to charge the battery? (I'm totally stabbing in the dark here).

I have no idea what amps the stator nor the VR should produce.

One question. Are your headlamps permanently on when the ignition is switched on? if so disconnect the bulbs and recheck the charging voltage. The only other advice I can offer is.

I had a charging voltage similar to yours (I'd recently replaced the VR and used new connectors) The solution was. I checked the VR connections, they looked fine, I sprayed them (connector and VR) with Servisol Switch Cleaner, Viola. GIVE that stuff plenty of time to evaporate, I waited 2 hours.

The tin States "Attention EXTREMELY INFLAMMABLE IRRITANT" the rest is in foreign language. It's made in the UK, equivalents should be available in other countries. If those don't solve your issue.

Disconnect the engine ground wire (located right hand side, rear of the engine), clean it. While you have the tank off, check the stator to VR connection for corrosion/melting. ANY signs of damage, cut it off. Replace it with a suitable connector NOT crimp connectors, or solder the wires together, insulate with self amalgamating tape. That connector is very close to rubber fuel pipes, and liable to catch FIRE if it overheats, so no solvents should be used to clean/remedy burnt prongs. Use dielectric grease on all connections.

One more thing use a different meter, preferably an analogue meter. I have 2 digital meters and there is no calibration on either. 13.23 Volts DC is not too far out of spec.

Ditto to what Mawler said. 13.23Vdc is not too bad at 3000rpm, running all lighting whilst testing. It should rise with revs (to a point) up to 13.8-14.2Vdc depending on VR make and model.

The stator (it and the magnets in the flywheel constitute an alternator assy) produces AC voltage. Amperage is a factor of load. Resistance is what drives load UP.

So, as mawler said, make sure your connections are great, and your chassis ground (from the VR and battery) are in very good shape and your should not have a large load on your stator coils.

Oh, and Mawler....your digimeters don't self-calibrate/zero if you cross their leads on ohms scale startup?? Or when you cross leads in ohms and press the selector dial?? This is how both my mini/pocket cheapo, and my $$$Ferret unit calibrate.

reelrazor wrote:Oh, and Mawler....your digimeters don't self-calibrate/zero if you cross their leads on ohms scale startup?? Or when you cross leads in ohms and press the selector dial?? This is how both my mini/pocket cheapo, and my $$$Ferret unit calibrate.

Thanks for that

mawler wrote:reelrazor wrote:
Oh, and Mawler....your digimeters don't self-calibrate/zero if you cross their leads on ohms scale startup?? Or when you cross leads in ohms and press the selector dial?? This is how both my mini/pocket cheapo, and my $$$Ferret unit calibrate.


Thanks for that

That being said,

I DO prefer analog meters-have an old (25 years) Fox Valley unit that I break out when I need to see transient signals....or just for checking for power or continuity (yea-nay)...see the needle swing, or see it twitch on transient signal- that's enough.


There IS something very satisfying to tweak the thumbwheel and SEE it zero..

My analogue meter is probably the same age. The digitals are both cheapo's 2 reasons

1. I get so focused on the job, forget where I've left the meter, then drive over it

2. Nice expensive ones, other people think they have more right to it than me, hence I never see them again.