Bike sputters and DIES!
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Bike sputters and DIES!
Hello All,
I was on my way into work the other day and when i stopped at a red light the bike sputtered and died. I couldnt get it started again because it clicked like the battery was dead. I was able to push the bike into a parking lot, pop the clutch and continue on my way. When I got out of work the bike started up, but died twice on my way home. The second time, I couldnt get it restarted and had to wait for my buddy to come pick me and the bike up. I charged the battery fully and the bike started right up! Well, got on the bike today and rode to work no problems. Left to go get some lunch and as I am pulling back into my parking lot it died! I tried to pop the clutch since it seemed to work last time and it wouldnt commit. It seems to sputter really hard before it dies. Whats weird to me is that "connection" between the battery and it dying. I would assume if it was dying while the bike was running it wouldnt be a battery issue but how come when I charged the battery it started right up and ra correcty? Well now I am stranded at work so could anyone PLEASE give me some guidance I would greatly appreciate it. THANK YOU!
I was on my way into work the other day and when i stopped at a red light the bike sputtered and died. I couldnt get it started again because it clicked like the battery was dead. I was able to push the bike into a parking lot, pop the clutch and continue on my way. When I got out of work the bike started up, but died twice on my way home. The second time, I couldnt get it restarted and had to wait for my buddy to come pick me and the bike up. I charged the battery fully and the bike started right up! Well, got on the bike today and rode to work no problems. Left to go get some lunch and as I am pulling back into my parking lot it died! I tried to pop the clutch since it seemed to work last time and it wouldnt commit. It seems to sputter really hard before it dies. Whats weird to me is that "connection" between the battery and it dying. I would assume if it was dying while the bike was running it wouldnt be a battery issue but how come when I charged the battery it started right up and ra correcty? Well now I am stranded at work so could anyone PLEASE give me some guidance I would greatly appreciate it. THANK YOU!
- kilika2
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Re: Bike sputters and DIES!
Your voltage regulator is shot. There is a flow chart in the wiki. I bet you find you answer there. I had the EXACT same problems, same number of times stranded at work and everything.
Chris.
EDIT: here is the link http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=v ... flow_chart
But if you search the wiki you will find a full write up of how to change the VR, and I don't know your bike or year so I'm assuming you have a pre 95 with a tin can VR.
Chris.
EDIT: here is the link http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=v ... flow_chart
But if you search the wiki you will find a full write up of how to change the VR, and I don't know your bike or year so I'm assuming you have a pre 95 with a tin can VR.
Before(5/5/09)_____________After(5/5/10)_____________Way After(8/1/10)
1995 FZR600 Sold
2006 R1 Sold :-\
2009 Buell 1125R
Re: Bike sputters and DIES!
Yea I have a 89. I actually bought it from Old_school so i tried to look at some of his old posts to see some of the electrical issues it might have had. I am familiar to cars and have done extensive maintence on cars but am new to bikes. My thought was that the VR is not getting enough air flow and over heating? Should I try to relocate it before I replace it?
Thank you for your help.
Thank you for your help.
- kilika2
- 1000+ Posts

- Posts: 1268
- Joined: Thu Sep 24, 2009 2:50 pm
- Location: South East Missouri
- Contact:
Re: Bike sputters and DIES!
If the tail section hasn't been changed then I doubt the airflow is bad. It's worked for the last 21 years. If it isn't the finned kind from 95+ or like an r6 then I say yes it is probably over heating. But being from Old_school, he's probably changed it and it has just shorted out. Could be your battery too. If you do a full charge over night and then take it to someone to put a load on it, they can tell you more. So you can cross that off your list.
Chris.
Chris.
Before(5/5/09)_____________After(5/5/10)_____________Way After(8/1/10)
1995 FZR600 Sold
2006 R1 Sold :-\
2009 Buell 1125R
Re: Bike sputters and DIES!
Yea. The tail has been changed though to the airtech tail and the original VR style VR is in there. idk if it has been replaced but what I was thinking was that it was not getting enough air back there on the frame underneath the airtech tail and overheating. Should i replace it with the r6 VR and then relocate it to the front of the battery?
- kilika2
- 1000+ Posts

- Posts: 1268
- Joined: Thu Sep 24, 2009 2:50 pm
- Location: South East Missouri
- Contact:
Re: Bike sputters and DIES!
Definitely change to the r6 type. As for the changing location it's probably not necessary you can do a search of other peoples experience but I bet you won't have to. The change to the finned vr is going to keep things a lot cooler.
Chris.
Chris.
Before(5/5/09)_____________After(5/5/10)_____________Way After(8/1/10)
1995 FZR600 Sold
2006 R1 Sold :-\
2009 Buell 1125R
Re: Bike sputters and DIES!
does sounds exactly like what mine was doing when the VR went bad, switched to the finned style and not a problem since. The flow chart is easy to use to diagnose, I did it and electrical is by far my weakest point
Re: Bike sputters and DIES!
mawler and i had similar problem and it was one of the terminals in the relay one pin had green corrosion on it giving indication of a flat batter we both just cleaned terminal and no problem
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=6624
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=6624
-
thatkid
Re: Bike sputters and DIES!
Id say the charging voltage is insufficient, could be poor connections on the charging circuit.
1. Battery connections loose/poor
2. VR connections
3. VR to Stator connections
4. Battery is incapable of taking a charge/dead
Follow the VR flow chart that kilika advised
1. Battery connections loose/poor
2. VR connections
3. VR to Stator connections
4. Battery is incapable of taking a charge/dead
Follow the VR flow chart that kilika advised
Re: Bike sputters and DIES!
So i ended up running through the diagnostic test and I think its the VR. When I went to pull it off the plastic connector was actually melted and fuzed to the prongs. I ordered a 07 r6 VR off ebay. Just to confirm, any r6 VR will work for the swap right? I couldnt find anything that said a specific year or years?
Thank you for your help
Thank you for your help
- kilika2
- 1000+ Posts

- Posts: 1268
- Joined: Thu Sep 24, 2009 2:50 pm
- Location: South East Missouri
- Contact:
Re: Bike sputters and DIES!
Yes sir. Check for corrosion in the plug that will go into the new vr. Also go to your local shop and get one of the 3 or 5 oz tubes of Dielectric grease and put it on EVERY connection you can find. Including the 1 or 2 grounds you have for the VR. EVERY CONNECTION.
Chris.
Edit: If you are unsure if you should put the grease on a connection, remember. Do it, EVERY CONNECTION.
Chris.
Edit: If you are unsure if you should put the grease on a connection, remember. Do it, EVERY CONNECTION.
Before(5/5/09)_____________After(5/5/10)_____________Way After(8/1/10)
1995 FZR600 Sold
2006 R1 Sold :-\
2009 Buell 1125R
Re: Bike sputters and DIES!
Ok thank you very much! So the new VR came in the mail today and I plan on putting it on tonight but I realized that the directions that are on the WIKI are for a 5 prong VR. I bought an 07 VR and it has 6 prongs. Does anyone know how to connect this one up? Thank you in advance
Re: Bike sputters and DIES!
Never mind searched and found that the extra prong is ignored. Thank you guys for your help. I will update you on the conversion.
-
thatkid
Re: Bike sputters and DIES!
You should read this thread before you start the mod viewtopic.php?f=8&t=6733&p=65324#p65324
We don't want your newly acquired VR to overheat, and Kill your VERY HARD TO FIND EXPENSIVE TCI, or battery Tacho bulbs E.T.C.
Good luck
Mal.
EDIT. I must admit I'm quite paranoid about my VR I popped 4 old types in 12 months. Hence i regularly check the battery charging voltage, In My apprenticeship/studies I learnt that 13.6V to 14.4V was the safe limits to charge but not over charge a 40 amp hour car battery. All 12 volt lead acid batteries are not actually 12 volts, the 12 volt lead acid battery has 6 cells, each cell produces or should produce 2.1 volts = 12.6 volts. The FZR 600 battery is 12 amp hour (I studied cars not bikes).
Last time I checked the charging voltage was 13.23 Volts. I quickly solved the issue, by unplugging the VR connector, I then sprayed Servisol Switch Cleaner on the VR prongs and the VR connector (THAT STUFF IS INFLAMMABLE THEREFORE A FIRE HAZARD so I let it evaporate for 2 hours) refitted the connector Viola 14.34 volts. Remember poor connections create heat make sure all connections are squeaky clean!!!
We don't want your newly acquired VR to overheat, and Kill your VERY HARD TO FIND EXPENSIVE TCI, or battery Tacho bulbs E.T.C.
Good luck
Mal.
EDIT. I must admit I'm quite paranoid about my VR I popped 4 old types in 12 months. Hence i regularly check the battery charging voltage, In My apprenticeship/studies I learnt that 13.6V to 14.4V was the safe limits to charge but not over charge a 40 amp hour car battery. All 12 volt lead acid batteries are not actually 12 volts, the 12 volt lead acid battery has 6 cells, each cell produces or should produce 2.1 volts = 12.6 volts. The FZR 600 battery is 12 amp hour (I studied cars not bikes).
Last time I checked the charging voltage was 13.23 Volts. I quickly solved the issue, by unplugging the VR connector, I then sprayed Servisol Switch Cleaner on the VR prongs and the VR connector (THAT STUFF IS INFLAMMABLE THEREFORE A FIRE HAZARD so I let it evaporate for 2 hours) refitted the connector Viola 14.34 volts. Remember poor connections create heat make sure all connections are squeaky clean!!!

