FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hi ok ive changed plugs and new air filter no problem ,got new downpipes and one stud snapped with about 12mm sticking out tried heating up around and undoing with mole grips no luck ,mate has stud extracter will it work without breaking/snapping rest off ,is there any other way to get it undone i have new stud to go in,its all stripped and ready to be done cheers Peter

i have had many broken studs over the years when working on outboard engines and found the safest way was to drill remaining bolt out and retap the thread
s tap and die sets are a resonable price now it my be the way to go you may have to retap a little larger and rethread a oversized stud or just drill header hole to suit this is just how i wuold do it as to keep damages to the minimun
sometimes when heat is applied you can tighten the stud and then reverse somtimes breaks the seal

did you manage to drill with head in place ,im reluctant to take it off really

yes the secret is to lightly centrepunch and start with pilot bit and work your way up this is just the way id do it but wait to see if any of the guys have any tricks up there sleeves

try using pb blaster not sure if its available in the uk kinda like wd40 but it actually works spray on leave over night and try to remove it again if not center punch the stud good and make sure you have brand new sharp drill bits start with a small bit and work your way up to a larger size until it is drilled out if there are enough threads left u might be able to tap the hole and be good if not u will have to drill the hole out to a larger size and helicoil the hole

If there's any threads showing, screw a nut on and weld it to the stud, first tighten it, then work back and forth until it slackens off

Easy out's can be useful but great care must be taken, so as not to snap them, if you think it's going to snap STOP it probably will, and you cant drill them. Drill a hole dead centre << very important, read this http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html and this The Art of Extraction

Let's hope the stud extractor does the job.

Good luck.

One thing I forgot to tell you if you use an electric welder, Disconnect the battery positive, electric welders can damage the Voltage Regulator.

Hi yeah my mate did mention that ,dont have any welding gear so no problem there,thanks all for your help Peter

foxeyepete wrote:Hi yeah my mate did mention that ,dont have any welding gear so no problem there,thanks all for your help Peter

FOR THE READERS of this thread:-

when a bolt / stud breaks it is because you the owner have stressed the metal passed its shear point .When the metal shears like that it leaves the surface crystalline & EXTREMELY HARD.

So hard that a drill will skitter across its surface & if You are not careful into your nice soft engine case !

Some one said oh you must center punch the stud to give the drill a purchase point. Fair comment
BUT is your eye / aim/ hammer blow for the punch so accurate as to be DEAD center of this irregular surface.
personally I doubt that.

So going along with the scenario we drill a fine hole first (do not break the drill as that will be another hardened steel piece to get out !)
the open up the hole till you get some cheap chinese made extractor tool a purchase to turn the tool & remove
the offending stud.
Pray fervently it does not snap too or again yo have just given your self more grief.

Ok so what is the right way to take out a broken bolt/ stud?

Simple WELD on a small piece of steel to the top of the broken piece & weld apiece across it as a "T" piece

then simply un-screw the broken so & so.

Why does this work ?
Simple the heat from welding will break any loctite / corrosion

My preferred method because I am long on patience is weld and cool, over night I leave a nice puddle of old coca cola round the joint where bolt/ stud meets th casing (I use kids modeling clay / at a pinch chewing gum to make a dam to keep the cola in place ).

In the morning I will just unscrew the piece no remaking threads, no nut serts, fancy stepped studs NADDA


I know a lot of you will have used the pointed extractors and gotten away with it Lucky you

I have used stud extractors like the Snap on type that is a 1/2" socket tool with a big hole in it to one side of the big hole is a wheel with a diamond pattern edge (knurled edge). You simlpy place the hole over the stud push the edged wheel against the broken bit and heave on the 1/2" breaker bar. the whell is self locking whilst under tension so it grips and hopefully it will remove the stud/ bolt .
This tool can only be used it there is a sizable chunk sticking up OR you have welded a bit on.

WORD OF CAUTION.
If you electric weld on the bike any time disconnect the battery (remember it gives of explosive gases) remove the TDI & VR as a precaution against High frequency damage from the welding arc.

GAS welding remember the bike has grease/oil/ gas & battery gases that cause explosions & fire.

If you have no mates:-{ with a welder then the yellow pages has mobile welder services, or get a pal with a van (you do have mates right?:0 ) to take you & bike to an industrial estate & find a welder & BRIBE him !

*******Best places to try has a bike outside*******the owner is probably the welder or the welders new best friend !

I have found a bottle of JD or Jamison's will get my job done just about anywhere in the world i have ever been in need of help !

where are the tdi and vr hidden on bike thanks

foxeyepete wrote:where are the tdi and vr hidden on bike thanks

Peter ,
not sure on the Foxeye but on my 92 the VR is under the left hand (when sat on the bike) rear seat fairing, the TDI is under the front seat on the front of the rear plastic fender.

Hi well its been done ,got someone in who looked at it ,asked to see my mole grips ,got his snap-on ones out and proceded to undo it, haha cheap nasty mole grips didnt realise, now am going to buy some proper ones oops George whats a fender

foxeyepete wrote:Hi well its been done ,got someone in who looked at it ,asked to see my mole grips ,got his snap-on ones out and proceded to undo it, haha cheap nasty mole grips didnt realise, now am going to buy some proper ones oops George whats a fender

Peter,
it is what the english born & bred refer to as a Mudguard, though both of those are my heritage I spent many years in our colonies (old & new) so my vocabulary is flawed with gas stations not petrol station mind you my language is colourful in 6 other languages too & I am tired of trying to teach the colonies about tyres & technology :-}
i do still have my very English sense of humour and the sense of pun <BG>,

You're lucky you do not hear me speak most take me from being from NZ or South Africa spending time there added to the collection of my enunciation of the "english" i speak

yeah i realise something like that ,i have cousins in texas and new mexico that i talk with online ,shame they cant speak english properly too