FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

How is the steering? Mine seems extremely fast. Hell, I can induce wobble with just a little side to side wiggle on the bars. Is this normal thing I need to adjust to from the bars being a lot higher and wider?

delvryboy wrote:How is the steering? Mine seems extremely fast. Hell, I can induce wobble with just a little side to side wiggle on the bars. Is this normal thing I need to adjust to from the bars being a lot higher and wider?

Del,
The dirt bars are probablt 2-3 wider so you have much more leverage on the steering also they are higher and allow your body far easier movement than from the racer crouch position.

IF you cut the bars use a tube cutter NOT a hacksaw & tape the section where you are going to use the tube cutter so you do not cattle truck the bar ends with marks

I doubt I'll hack them up. It's just crazy how touchy the steering is now.

delvryboy wrote:I doubt I'll hack them up. It's just crazy how touchy the steering is now.

Del,
Which is why most guys shorten them a tad especially if they ride in heavy traffic & lane split on a regular basis

hmm. I could probably get away with losing 1-1.5" on each end.

btw - Thanks for the cutting tip. Much more informative than just suggesting to cut them.

delvryboy wrote:btw - Thanks for the cutting tip. Much more informative than just suggesting to cut them.

Del,
Having seen the grief others have gotten into trying to hack saw a round tube with a square end and the burrs left that cut up throttle tubes and stick the throttle at WFO etc .

I thought it prudent to tell you the right way of doing it, we like our membership alive & riding safely

I do not know how familiar you are with tube cutters....... but start cutting slowly as the chrome plate is quite hard in respect to what they normally cut and if you go too quick with too much pressure will break the cutting wheel & the T.C owner will be none too pleased

OK so what are these dirty bars you are talking about?

The Usual Suspect wrote: OK so what are these dirty bars you are talking about?

Dirt bike handle bars mounted to a Seca II/Diversion top clamp.

Will they clear the fairing?

The Usual Suspect wrote:Will they clear the fairing?

Not without major modification. The mirror stay would definitely have to go.

I cut 3/4" off each end and a 1/2" off my throttle tube so my grip would fit better. Definitely better, but I may go a little shorter in the future: new bars.

Vibration: I think its cause my bars are so light. Fill them with something? Steel bars?

delvryboy wrote:I cut 3/4" off each end and a 1/2" off my throttle tube so my grip would fit better. Definitely better, but I may go a little shorter in the future: new bars.

Vibration: I think its cause my bars are so light. Fill them with something? Steel bars?

DB,
the trick is to plug the end with candle wax by at least an inch then pour in VERY dry sand (put it in your SO's oven to dry it out and let it cool for HOURS as it stays hot for quite awhile ) fill to within an inch or more then pour in hot wax . Now you have a set of filled bars to dampen any vibes

. If you need more weight than that use bars of plumbers solder melted in to them.
BE sensible about the pouring of molten metal "wife beaters" are not safe footwear use a welders leather apron from the waist down & heavy leather work boots UNDER that
Do not work over sand or wet ground molten lead will star bust off in all directions on any kind of dampness.
A quick GOOGLE on furnace & casting metals procedure will be a good primer

have you seen this
http://www.barsnake.com/about/index.html

man i really really want to do this! i love that style bar! i am running a damper on mine so i am not too worried about the shake. the damper is one of the best mods i came up wiht for my figher