FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Well yesterday I went to take off out of my driveway. The bike started fine. But the clutch cable snapped on me. The bike is in neutral now, but since it snapped it won't start. I tried starting fluid and it didn't work. I pulled a plug out and it black. I put the plug in the wire and cranked it outside the bike and didn't see it spark. Is there anyway to tell if the igniton box took a crap on me. I tried a new fuse and that still didn't do anything.

Thankyou


Billy

Billy, odd symptoms that's for sure clutch cable breaks now no start. I'm assuming you have replaced your cluth cable at this point and have adjusted it as per the FSM. Why would you try a new fuse? Had the previous one popped? Pull all four of your plugs and check them for spark by laying them across your cylinder head attached to their respective plug wires and pressing the start button. You are looking for a nice light blue spark on each of them. Then report back.

stupid question but is the run switch on the right bar in the correct position i forget its even there myself

M in KC wrote:Pull all four of your plugs and check them for spark by laying them across your cylinder head attached to their respective plug wires and pressing the start button. You are looking for a nice light blue spark on each of them. Then report back.

Bad idea if any of the plugs do spark the atomised fuel blowing out from all four cylinders (spark plugs removed) could ignite. Best to check all four HT leads with all four plugs securely in place.

EDIT:!!!!!!!!!!

Come on i mean your telling the guy to look closely for the plugs sparking on the cylinder head. There's explosive gasses getting pumped out with your method. FFS get real he will sue you when his eyes get burnt and can no longer see due to permanent blindness.

Sorry but that weekend mechanic advice really pisses me off. You obviously have no clue nor care of safety issues.

haro504 wrote:stupid question but is the run switch on the right bar in the correct position i forget its even there myself

Er with the run stop switch in the stop position the bike wont even crank over when hitting the start button. He's tried starting fluid, so i guess the engine cranks over.

You need to do a correct ignition system diagnosis.

Easy chief. My instruction was to check the HT leads with the spark plugs securely in place grounded to something. There's not much of a lead to ground the plugs to once inserted properly into the HT leads much other than the cylinder head. I do appreciate you looking out for my well being but it would appear as though he already has experience detecting spak this way from his initial post.

I just wanted to see if he had fire in any of the four holes. I guess if you had a spare set of plugs you could set them i the plug holes and lay the presuabely goods on the motor connected to the HT leads and hit the start button. This would be a safer alternative. That way no gas escapes the cylinder and you still can confirm the presence or absence of spark. I guess I've never witnessed an exposive A/F mixture outside a cylinder while testing for spark in this manner.

He needs fuel, compression, timing and spark. I'm giving him the benefit of the doubt and am assuming there is fuel in the tank the petcock to the on or reserve position depending upon fuel level, compression and timing surely could not of been affeted by a failed clutch cable IMO. Amazingly enough, after all our two-dimensional keyboard jabbing, I think, we both agree he more than likely has an ignition problem.

Safety is always paramount in my book, securely in place means. Screwed into the plug holes, so no fuel/air mixture can escape. I would never advise checking for a spark with any spark plugs removed. The tried and tested method i use is posted elsewhere.

As for "an ignition problem" I agree. What i can only guess at. Was it the sudden jolt of the bike moving forward when the clutch cable snapped, possibly causing an already corroded connector to fail? or just a coincidence?

M in KC wrote: Amazingly enough, after all our two-dimensional keyboard jabbing,

Do you mean when I advised you which components the signal fuse supplied. Then an amateur suggested a common ground. You then believed it was a common ground. I tried my best to help you save time and effort looking for *a none existent impossible* common ground fault? It was a rear turn signal shorting out, if i remember correctly, does that also share a common ground with "A lot of the electronics up front share a ground"?

If you think that was keyboard jabbing

I seem to remember there is some safety feature from Yamaha that is to do with the clutch & starting ?
someone with a better memory ..................