FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

I have no horn, turn indicators, neutral indicator, tach is reading way low it never goes above 2K. VR checks good, battery is strong bike starts and runs without issue. Headlights hi and lo are OK, running lights are good. Didn't see and open fuses. Any thoughts?

Does the oil light work (light up when you push the start button), do both front and rear brake switches work (the brake light comes on)? The faults you describe and the 3 i mentioned are all fed by the signal fuse Red 10A next to the Yellow H/light fuse 20A, if it's not the fuse, pull it out and check for corrosion, check for Voltage at the terminals (both brown wire's) 1 should have 12v the other will have no voltage (with the fuse removed), if there's no voltage, check the brown wire on the ignition switch, that brown wire supplies the voltage to the signal fuse.

Check your grounds. A lot of the electronics up front share a ground.

The grounds are a possibility, neutral and oil light's ground through their relative switch/sender tho.

EDIT.

Remember the guy with running lamps front and rear, he had 2 lives connected to the front blinkers, and no ground connected, Ever seen a car when the brake lights come on, the reverse lights, and or blinkers also come on? that's a bad ground. Those bulbs all share the same ground, no ground = the brake lights ground through the other bulbs/circuits. In short a bad ground can make other components (which share the same ground) to come on when they shouldn't.

I'll check all those as possibilities and report back. Everything worked as it should when we loaded the bike for our trip and then when I unloaded it, bam that was what I got. Strange. Although the more I think about it, a common ground does seem plausible.

M in KC wrote:I'll check all those as possibilities and report back. Everything worked as it should when we loaded the bike for our trip and then when I unloaded it, bam that was what I got. Strange. Although the more I think about it, a common ground does seem plausible.

M,
you say loaded as on a truck/van/pickup.?
Check near where the tie downs were they are the usual suspects for damage in transit.

Which is why I always do my own tie downs that way I do not have anyone but myself to cuss out

Check your fuses again, and don't just open the set and have a quick glance. I've done that and missed a fuse when a few of my lights werent coming on.

Maybe you should check out the wiring diagram in the WIKI, The signal fuse (Brown wire) feeds Oil light, Neutral light, Temp gauge, Tach, Front and Rear brake switch's, Horn, and Turn signal relay, Those components do not all share the same common ground. Therefore if none of those components work correctly, that rules out a common ground, and points to the common positive feed that they all do share. If some work and others don't then look at the grounds. However as i said the Oil and "Neutral" lights ground via their relative switch/sender directly through the engine casings, if the engine wasn't grounded (as if) it wouldn't crank nor run. Unless im missing something and the engine also shares the same common ground?

Much easier to identify which of those components work, and which don't before tearing into the harness.

EDIT

Just noticed that your running lights work, Running lights do share a common ground, with the front turn signals (not working) and the hi and lo beams (working). If the front turn signals had a poor ground, you would also have running lights front and rear, the running lights would ground via the front turn signal bulb filaments, then via the blinker circuit lighting up the rear turn signals, as i described in my previous post.

Yesterday the Wife informed me. "when i press the brakes a light comes on on the dashboard" (car).

I investigated. The dash light was the "Rear Fog Warning Lamp". The rear cluster plug was dirty (bad ground).

Guys I'm going to try and sort this later this week, way to busy with other responsibilities. I did drag out the wire diagram since I originally posted to start assessing what is going where. More to come.

So the winning pint(s) go to Brutal Tooth and Yamaha George. Upon further examination the 10 amp signal fuse was spent, which also services the horn, neutral indicator light, turn indicators, the tacho and both brakes lights. Once I discoverd that, it was a matter of process elimination. Replace the fuse and start evaluating each component on that circuit. The culpurit ended up being the left rear turn indicator. In transit the left rear turn indicator (after market cat-eye) managed to work its way loose from the rear inner fender and apparently was flayling around in the breeze as this bike was in the bed of the pickup. I noticed the turn indicator hanging when we got to our destination. I reattached it and thought nothing more about it. After a deeper dive, the wires managed to twist themselves tight enough where the hot wire actually broke enough bare wire to make contact with the ground wire for that turn indicator at the socket base. Once I noticed that, Bob's your uncle and all was well again. I feel like a dumb arse for not figuring it out sooner.

Any way thanks all, for your suggestions and inspiration. Nostorvia!

M in KC wrote:
Any way thanks all, for your suggestions and inspiration. Nostorvia!

Orchin Corascho :-}

M in KC wrote:So the winning pint(s) go to Brutal Tooth and Yamaha George. Upon further examination the 10 amp signal fuse was spent, which also services the horn, neutral indicator light, turn indicators, the tacho and both brakes lights. Once I discoverd that, it was a matter of process elimination. Replace the fuse and start evaluating each component on that circuit. The culpurit ended up being the left rear turn indicator. In transit the left rear turn indicator (after market cat-eye) managed to work its way loose from the rear inner fender and apparently was flayling around in the breeze as this bike was in the bed of the pickup. I noticed the turn indicator hanging when we got to our destination. I reattached it and thought nothing more about it. After a deeper dive, the wires managed to twist themselves tight enough where the hot wire actually broke enough bare wire to make contact with the ground wire for that turn indicator at the socket base. Once I noticed that, Bob's your uncle and all was well again. I feel like a dumb arse for not figuring it out sooner.

Any way thanks all, for your suggestions and inspiration. Nostorvia!

A blow signal fuse, I'd never have guessed that.

Glad you identified the cause.