FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Ok, so my speedometer goes out when riding on Sunday night. the cable is not snapped, I've already pulled it off on both ends. Then Monday morning my tach starts acting wonky register nothing when sitting still and running and only getting up to about 2200 when riding. My signals also stopped working at this time along with my neutral light. This was after I've been in that area swapping out the forks so I can rebuild mine but I've not found any loose connections. I'm in the process of taking each connection apart and doing a cleaning/dielectric routine on them but I'm hoping someone knows what's causing such a strange sting of failures. It's a 94 fzr600 with an upgraded yzf VR put in about a year ago.

Tach, neutral light, and signals turned out to be a fuse. I didn't even check the fuse first since I needed to get into the cluster to isolate the speedo. I turn the gear on the back of the speedo and the needle moves so it's not in the cluster.
I'm leaning towards drive in the hub since that's where I worked last.

_Will_ wrote:Tach, neutral light, and signals turned out to be a fuse. I didn't even check the fuse first since I needed to get into the cluster to isolate the speedo. I turn the gear on the back of the speedo and the needle moves so it's not in the cluster.
I'm leaning towards drive in the hub since that's where I worked last.

It is possible the cable has ridden out or fractured.
Undo the bottom connection and put it in a reversible dril (not sure which way it drives from memory do aslow start & see if it moves to the point or counts properly.
If neither busted inner drive cable OR yer pulled it out of the instrument cluster to far and it is not engaging.

Good call on the drill Geo, I'll give that a shot this weekend. That will let me elimate the gear on the back of the gauge as well

When you swapped out the forks did you remove the inner speedo cable for any reason?

I'm not sure on the FZR (never removed the inner cable) usually the inner cable's have a BUTT on one end, which should go @ the top, cluster end, the butt is there to prevent the cable dropping down into the hub, I.E. you can only pull the inner cable out from the cluster end. Dunno if that's the case on the FZR though.

I did not remove the inner cable, just disconnected it from the hub. The cable seems to be based off length since the opposite ends appeared identical, just a long square piece.

So the bike has now blown two fuses on the singal circuit, I did recently fix some poorly don't connections on the front and rear signals. Could me making my own poorly done connection do this? By port connections I joke, I did use crimping connectors and dielectric grease. Also the wires for the brake light under the master had come loose from the female spade connector, I'd used some 12ga wire to finish it so I could keep from being rear ended and replaced it today with a proper spade and some 16ga wire but still blew a fuse. I am an electrical lamain so any advice or likely culprits would help.

Well the signal fuse (Brown wires) feed the oil light, neutral light, temp, tach, front and rear brake switches, and the turn signal/blinker relay, so it could be any.

Back tracking here, when you swapped out the fork's did you disconnect any of the connector's near the h/light?

i know there's two that have the same plug/connector, i think one is black and one is white, you didn't mix them up?

mawler wrote:Well the signal fuse (Brown wires) feed the oil light, neutral light, temp, tach, front and rear brake switches, and the turn signal/blinker relay, so it could be any.

Back tracking here, when you swapped out the fork's did you disconnect any of the connector's near the h/light?

i know there's two that have the same plug/connector, i think one is black and one is white, you didn't mix them up?

no, this time they went out and no blown fuse even, fixed it by doing the disconnect reconnect routine on one signal (the side I haven't worked on) and it's back to performing. Now I just need to fix the speedometer to keep from getting any tickets. I'm probably the slowest motorcycle in Fl right now erring on the side of caution for the sake of my checking account.

drill technique worked, had the bike up to 105mph on my back porch. The cable spins counter clockwise for the record.

_Will_ wrote:drill technique worked, had the bike up to 105mph on my back porch. The cable spins counter clockwise for the record.

Will then the if the speedo works it is just a case of a disconnect from the bottom to top.
I know what I am about to suggest is tiresome & long winded BUT
Drop the axle & wheel, now look at the lower drive clean it repack it with grease then put the cable on and spin the drive a piece of rubber in a drill chuck pressed hard should do it or a T handled allen key as i did once.
see if she drives.

Oh yeh on re-assembly make sure the drive tab gizmo is located directly in the wheels hub cut outs or when you assemble the wheel they get flattened and will NOT drive the cable !!!!!!!!!
Best o' luck
Y-Geo.

update:
new bearings are in the front, the fridge trick worked like a charm since they had to be worked in but not to where I was afraid I'd damage them. Just worked around the outside piece with a deep well and a hammer.

Speedo turned out to be the tabs , they'd sheered off. No doubt I somehow lined them up wrong a little and the finally gave when I was riding down the street. Less than 10 shipped new so no major pain there and I managed to avoid any tickets while guessing my speed by my tach and memory

thanks for all the help