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This is where I now am with trying to get the bike to run.
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 10:38 pm
by kilika2
So now I'm in this boat, I'll make the long story short since I'm frustrated and just spent the last 5 hours working on the bike. I've pretty much changed everything or cleaned everything fuel related. This is what I have for you.
I got the IR thermometer out. Cyl in order 1.2.3.4 temps. 611, 127.5, 128.5, 613. So I turned the IMS to 3to, 4to, 4to, 3to. Temps are now 580, 205, 207, 590.
So I moved on. I wanted to try the water down the carbs to clean the valves like RR said. So I poured it down carbs 2 and 3 first, don't know why. The bike didn't sputter, I thought huh neat. poured it down 4, bike stalled. Ok I didn't give it enough gas. I decided water wasn't good so I went to the automatic tranny fluid. Poured down 1 and the bike bogged, smoked everything it was suppose to do. Same with cyl 4.
Now cyls 2 and 3... nothing. Hmmm. So I decided to check the ohms on the coil. Left coil (2 and 3) Showed 2.9 ohms. Above speck. Ok well let's see. 1 and 4. 2.9 ohms. Ok well maybe it's ok. I'll check the secondary coils 1 and 4 showed 13.6 Ohms. Same with 2 and 3. So they are within spec.
So for grins I started the bike and unpluged coil for 2 and 3. Bike kept running. Plugged back in and did the same to 1 and 4. Bike died. SOOOOOOOOOO is everyone thinking what I'm thinking? Coils bad? I don't really want to go to the zx2 pack because I don't want to go to pods and do all the jetting. TK has some coil packs that I can get. But I wanted to confirm with some others first. Anything else you need to know I can tell you, I've checked just about everything.
Chris.
Re: This is where I now am with trying to get the bike to run.
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 11:31 pm
by Fizzinatorr
Will it run with the choke fully out?
Re: This is where I now am with trying to get the bike to run.
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 11:47 pm
by kilika2
Yes, at 6-8 k. It's never been that way before either, usually around 4k with the choke all the way out. It would also bounce badly around with the choke out. Small decreased would make the bike go down to 2k quickly and then I would try to pull it back out just a hair, so I could sync it. And it would jump back to 5k. I did finally get it to idle around 2. I should also mention that I changed the spark plugs and all 4 are firing and and good spark. Also the plugs are chocolate colored and don't appear to be fouled to me.
Chris.
Re: This is where I now am with trying to get the bike to run.
Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 8:08 am
by yamaha_george
Chris ,
From what you say here the coils are OK, if they measure the same for 1/4 & 2/3 and 1/4 works but 2/3 does not then the feed to 2/3 from the TCI is buggered in my book.
I would inspect the TCI, my name sake from Romania did a piece in the WIKI take a look at that first before buying any thing I am sure TK will hold up for a couple of days as he is a member of the boards good guys!
Re: This is where I now am with trying to get the bike to run.
Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 8:45 am
by cad600
Out of curiosity, did you try to swap the plug wires so that the one plugged into #2 went to #3 and the one that was plugged into #3 went to #2? Did it make a difference?
Re: This is where I now am with trying to get the bike to run.
Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 11:58 am
by shredex
Re: This is where I now am with trying to get the bike to run.
Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 12:42 pm
by kilika2
YG- I will definitely check that out. Thanks George.
Cad- I didn't and I don't know why. For some reason I didn't think of it. Even if I did I would probably have been worried it would have messed something up. Even though that is completely ridiculous. I shall try that when I get home.
Shred-
Chris.
Re: This is where I now am with trying to get the bike to run.
Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 8:32 am
by thatkid
Would it be possible to swap the Orange Red/White connector from Coil 1/4 to coil 2/3 and the Gray Red/White connector from Coil 2/3 to Coil 1/4 (are the connectors inter changeable?) if so Then switch the plug leads to match (1/4 to 2/3, 2/3 to 1/4) if cylinders 1/4 give problems and 2/3 are fine then it must be the coil, if not its the TCI or a wiring problem.
You'd be using the suspect coil on cylinders 1/4
Does that make sense?
Re: This is where I now am with trying to get the bike to run.
Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 9:04 am
by cad600
mawler wrote:Would it be possible to swap the Orange Red/White connector from Coil 1/4 to coil 2/3 and the Gray Red/White connector from Coil 2/3 to Coil 1/4 (are the connectors inter changeable?) if so Then switch the plug leads to match (1/4 to 2/3, 2/3 to 1/4) if cylinders 1/4 give problems and 2/3 are fine then it must be the coil, if not its the TCI or a wiring problem.
You'd be using the suspect coil on cylinders 1/4
Does that make sense?
Some of this works, but some does not. The coils are close enough that you could swap the coils around and they would run the other groups. But you can NOT just swap the input wires around. The orange wire goes to cylinder #1 and the gray wire goes to Cylinder #2. If you put them in another spot, the firing order will not match the piston stroke which means it will not ignite the fuel fully to get sustainable revolution. So if you wanted to move the coil packs around, as long as the orange wire goes to #1, then it should be fine.
Re: This is where I now am with trying to get the bike to run.
Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:41 am
by kilika2
cad600 wrote:mawler wrote:Would it be possible to swap the Orange Red/White connector from Coil 1/4 to coil 2/3 and the Gray Red/White connector from Coil 2/3 to Coil 1/4 (are the connectors inter changeable?) if so Then switch the plug leads to match (1/4 to 2/3, 2/3 to 1/4) if cylinders 1/4 give problems and 2/3 are fine then it must be the coil, if not its the TCI or a wiring problem.
You'd be using the suspect coil on cylinders 1/4
Does that make sense?
Some of this works, but some does not. The coils are close enough that you could swap the coils around and they would run the other groups. But you can NOT just swap the input wires around. The orange wire goes to cylinder #1 and the gray wire goes to Cylinder #2. If you put them in another spot, the firing order will not match the piston stroke which means it will not ignite the fuel fully to get sustainable revolution. So if you wanted to move the coil packs around, as long as the orange wire goes to #1, then it should be fine.
I tried it just for grins. And sure enough the bike wouldn't fire. But on a good note I just sat outside for 3 hours and poured ATF, then water, then sea foam, down each of the carbs. (And then sea foam down the plug hole of cyl 2.) And guess what. I got cyl 3 to fire and the exhaust temp got to 480. But 2 was still at 170. I was convinced that I could ride it to work anyway on 3 cyls. Long story short I got about 3 miles and this huge cloud of smoke came out the exhaust. I was pulling on the interstate so I just decided to try and clear it out since it didn't look blue like oil. Anyway got to work and check the temps on the pipes. all were 458. ALL 4 CYL WERE FIRING!!!!!
And I must have been running on 3 for a while cause I had a huge power increase and she sounds great. Also I did the ignition advance so that probably helps.
Chris.
ps Thanks all that helped me.
Re: This is where I now am with trying to get the bike to run.
Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 2:25 pm
by gooserex
I bet you any money the plugs where the issue, and all the solvent managed to clean them enough to fire. After all that chemical abuse, it might be wise to check your oil and consider changing it to ensure it's not contaminated if anything got past the rings.
Re: This is where I now am with trying to get the bike to run.
Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 3:05 pm
by kilika2
They were brand new plugs unfortunatly, I figured I'd change the oil after 100 miles or so, didn't want to feel like I wasted all that money changing it in December and not riding it but 15 miles since then. But it's a wise choice.
Chris.
Re: This is where I now am with trying to get the bike to run.
Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 3:06 pm
by gooserex
kilika2 wrote:They were brand new plugs unfortunatly, I figured I'd change the oil after 100 miles or so, didn't want to feel like I wasted all that money changing it in December and not riding it but 15 miles since then. But it's a wise choice.
Chris.
Interesting... did you fog it last season?
Re: This is where I now am with trying to get the bike to run.
Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 11:02 pm
by kilika2
Nope this was my first fogging exp. Mid last season I did have what felt like a loss of power. I was unsure since it was my first year riding. I also didnt have an IR therm to check the headers. So I changed the plugs, that seemed to help. Guess not.
Chris
Re: This is where I now am with trying to get the bike to run.
Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 9:23 pm
by trump19
well bro i ended up taking my bike to the shop and after everything i tryed doing even cleaning the carbs nothin would work so i just said f it its going to the shop... myn ended up needing my carbs fully rebuilt and new stock plugs dude that fixed it told me the 8 dollar plugs are no good for that bike.. now keep in mind my bike sat for 2 years out side and the dude i got it from was a fat ass and so was his girl so this bike was beat when i got it ( still is) but any how it has 35xxx on it never had a shim job. after the carbs were reinstalled this think starts like a dream it went down to 30 last night i went out side and started this thing, and she started like she was new.... the only thing that sucks is when i rev mine i get that puff of black smoke but thats for the person behind me to worry about...... if you live in the rochester area and u cant figure it out i would suggest taking it to total cycle them boys know their shit and pricing is pritty good. but i deff would rip them carbs down