FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

OK anyone run into a problem as this before?

I have an 89 FZR600. All stock with the exception of the Vance and Hines SS2R exhaust. (not the problem yet) The bike was running fine.

1) I ran the bike one day and parked it.
2) The next day I started the bike and shut it down.
3) The day after that and ever since all it does is crank over. It started to start hard cold. Sometimes with ether it would pop but not consistently.

What I done,
1. replaced the plugs with new CR9EIX, checked the resistance on the caps and all tested fine.
2. The bike has good spark
3. I pulled the carbs off and had them cleaned, glass beaded and adjusted by a trusted source.
4. I replaced the carb holders with new ones due to the old had been cracked but still operable.
5. The fuel pump pumps fuel, even tried rigging a funnel to the inlet on the carb rail.
Put the carbs on and still have the same problem. Just cranks and nothing maybe a pop here and there as if it wants to run.

The bike has good compression, and sucks very well from the carbs as well.
After this, the plugs are wet with fuel, and each plug provides a good spark.

It will only start under this condition..

With the airbox off I have to cover the carb throats and crank it over a few times. Let the bike sit in the sun (yes sun) hit the choke and it cranks a few times then fires and runs mint. Granted the airbox does not seat to well, but it runs. While the bike is warm it will start with out a problem but if it sits for a while i.e. an hour it will not.

I am a little stumped on this can any of you shed a little light on this for me?

Thanks,

Paul

Have you changed the air filter or at least cleaned it?

When were the valves last checked and or adjusted?

sweekster wrote:When were the valves last checked and or adjusted?

Bing bing bing bing..

we have a winner!

That was my interpretation of this issue/complaint.....tight intake valves

Compensate for the lack of vacuum AND provide a liquid fuel mix to seal the valves by "..cover the carb throats..."....does better when sitting in sun (warm...causes rich condition-see above)..starts fine warm (valve faces grow when hot-tending to seal better)...


Now, it may just be a matter of carbon on the valves and valve stems....this can be cleaned off by misting water into the carbs while it is running at high idle...make it stumble, let it catch, rev it out-repeat....will usually generate smoke and some backfires, so clue the neighbors in if possible.

reelrazor wrote:

sweekster wrote:When were the valves last checked and or adjusted?

Bing bing bing bing..

we have a winner!

That was my interpretation of this issue/complaint.....tight intake valves

Compensate for the lack of vacuum AND provide a liquid fuel mix to seal the valves by "..cover the carb throats..."....does better when sitting in sun (warm...causes rich condition-see above)..starts fine warm (valve faces grow when hot-tending to seal better)...


Now, it may just be a matter of carbon on the valves and valve stems....this can be cleaned off by misting water into the carbs while it is running at high idle...make it stumble, let it catch, rev it out-repeat....will usually generate smoke and some backfires, so clue the neighbors in if possible.

Make sure to do this with a well charged battery to make life easier :-}

Not sure when the valves were last checked or even if they had been at all. It just baffles me how it started fine and one day nothing.

If I can find someone around here to do the job that I can trust in CT I would take it to them. But after experience from a local shop it's gonna be a little difficult.

I think that I can do the job myself (having some backyard mechanic capability and a full bore garage thanks to dad) but reading the specs on how to determine which shims to use between the rocker and stem I might mess up or throwing the timing off. I would hate to venture this task myself and it might come to me but until then its unknown.

As far as the $100 goes sweekster gets it... Razor your explanation puts it into perspective quite nicely and seeing how your a mod I guess that I can throw a kicker to you..

Now if someone wants to do it for me it could be worth their while as well....

reelrazor wrote:

sweekster wrote:When were the valves last checked and or adjusted?

Bing bing bing bing..

we have a winner!

That was my interpretation of this issue/complaint.....tight intake valves

Compensate for the lack of vacuum AND provide a liquid fuel mix to seal the valves by "..cover the carb throats..."....does better when sitting in sun (warm...causes rich condition-see above)..starts fine warm (valve faces grow when hot-tending to seal better)...


Now, it may just be a matter of carbon on the valves and valve stems....this can be cleaned off by misting water into the carbs while it is running at high idle...make it stumble, let it catch, rev it out-repeat....will usually generate smoke and some backfires, so clue the neighbors in if possible.

Oh and as far as my neighbors go they'll understand...

I don't know where it is located, somebody here will know, but there's an online calculator somebody developed in Excel where you type in the clearance and the existing shim size and it will tell you the shim size you need.

pefrey wrote:I don't know where it is located, somebody here will know, but there's an online calculator somebody developed in Excel where you type in the clearance and the existing shim size and it will tell you the shim size you need.

WIKI???///////////

OK well I got it started today misted the carbs with a squirt bottle and it didnt skip a beat. But I noticed at around 6000 it intermittently breaks up. So now I'm of to check the regulator or it may be a simple carb synch. But off to Wiki to take a look at the valves...

I am going to throw in my 2 cents. I am a car mechanic that plays with bikes. pouring in a little water works. But from what I have found and you can ask anyother old school mechanic, use transmission fluid. Transmission fluid is a detergant(think i spelled that wrong). It will do the same as the water but will also clean up the intake and valves. When I use it on a car I jack the idle up and slowly pour it down the carb. For the bike I would get a water spray bottle and set it to mist. Get the bike started up with the help of the sun. Jack/adjust your idle up high then take your trans fluid and spray in the first carb. don't over do it to the point it shuts off the bike. But keep it going into that carb for about 2 minutes. Then move onto the next carb same process 2 minutes trying to keep a steady supply of fluid in it. And make sure you warn your neighbors cause your about to make a smoke screen that would make hollywood proud. After all the smoke has cleared and the bike has cooled back down check your valves. There is nothing worse than doing a job more than once cause of carbon build up giving you bad measurments.

at this point I am willing to try anything. As far as my neighbors go they are pretty cool. I might scare a few deer or squirrels but aside from that the rest are pretty cool. I was even thinking of some Marvel Mystery Oil cause I had luck with that in the past.

OK guys I've looked through the forum and would like your opinion. Would the Voltage Regulator be a factor in this? The reason is I performed the charging system check as described in the wiki... The battery charging lower than the specs. and connector coming out of the stator is reading around 54 vAC. Does the VR have a part in starting?