FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Ok, now that I'm [mostly] done fixing the gallery I can start thinking about fixing my bike again.

My bike is running really rich. The PO told that it was running "a little" rich because he liked it that way (smelled like BS then, still does). I'm not sure if it has gotten worse or not; but the gf complained about it after driving behind it and friends with bikes have mentioned it. It is kind of nice because I don't get tailgated by SUVs in rush hour as much, but my mileage sucks and unburned fuel doesn't smell so pretty.

The carbs got tore down, cleaned and resynced this spring when I thought my VR problem was a fuel problem. My buddy who did most of the work did not think it was critical to check the float height so long as they were all the same (he said he's never had to do any more on his beemers). Since doing the carbs it has been running much better, albeit still rich.

Are the float levels where I should start trying to track down this problem or should I be looking somewhere else? Could this be a plug problem? I replaced the plugs last fall before storing the bike.

float levels and emulsion tubes.....?

Start with emulsion tubes.

If you have adjustable needles, move the clip to a "leaner" position.

I have a dynojet kit, installed by the PO. IIRC, my needles were on the last clip setting (leanest). I'm not 100% sure what emulsion tubes are or how to get at them, I'll have to do some homework before I tackle this. Am I going to have to resync the carbs after checking float levels, needles and tubes?

tommyj27 wrote:I have a dynojet kit, installed by the PO. IIRC, my needles were on the last clip setting (leanest).

Chances are your emulsion tubes are very worn then.

tommyj27 wrote:I'm not 100% sure what emulsion tubes are or how to get at them, I'll have to do some homework before I tackle this. Am I going to have to resync the carbs after checking float levels, needles and tubes?

Easy to replace, but tedious. You have to pull the carbs and end up removing a few things.

As far as syncing - no, you shouldn't have to sync again.

Here are some shots that might help with understanding what the tubes are and where they're located:

ooo nice pics rage

rage hate to disagree but you should def sync after replacing worn tubes, they wont have worn evenly most likely and will cause issues.......

in theory though really.....after every carb adjustment thats close to on....sync!

In my experience, the tubes have nothing to do with the sync. You're simply measuring the airflow through each carburetor. That won't change when you change the tubes. The tubes help regulate fuel. Unless he's jacked with the carb sync adjusting screws, then he should be fine.

He will have to adjust the Idle Mixture screws...

Here is a couple photos of the sync screws and the throttle plates that they affect. A sync will make sure that each carb is pulling the same amount of air.

megaloxana wrote:ooo nice pics rage

+1 on that. you do do great pics rage.

I'll try and tear into the carbs tomorrow. i've seen it done and it doesn't look like rocket science (close), i'll just take lots of pics as I go.

If I do need to replace tubes should I go with the factory pro ones? Does it matter that the jet kit is a Dynojet and not a Factory Pro?

I haven't messed with the sync screws; I believe we only tweaked the idle adjust screws. Who the fizz knows what the PO did. He was kind of a half-baked looking redneck wrench-head (no offense to anyone here who fits that description).

no it wont matter that you have DJ kit instead.

the OEM ones cost more last time I priced them..........and arent as good

haunter wrote:no it wont matter that you have DJ kit instead.

the OEM ones cost more last time I priced them..........and arent as good

+1 Plus, the FP ones are nickel plated and should last longer.

Forging ahead, wish me luck!

I was going to swing by the stealership and see if they have the little guage to measure the fuel level.

I got the carbs out yesterday afternoon. I checked the emulsion tubes on carbs 1 & 2; both looked fine. I didn't bother with 3 & 4; less to take apart when the first two looked good. I checked the clip position and was pleasantly surprised that they were set at position 4 (rather than 6 like I had previously thought). I moved the clips on all four needles out one to position 5; I figured I'd go with a small adjustment first. I got everything put back together, and back on the bike. Said a little prayer and fired it up, and it worked!

I warmed it up, everything seemed to be revving solid. I also noticed that I only needed a bit of choke to get it running initially. Previously I had to set the choke pretty much wide open; I'm sure the neighbors will appreciate that when I leave for work in the morning. Took it for a test ride and it seemed to be running great. Went a couple miles and suddenly realized that I didn't remember tightening down the clamps on the engine-carb boots (whatever they're actually called); . Turned around and went home to tear everything apart again and tighten those down, with the added bonus of maneuvering around the hot engine.

I didn't check the float bowl levels. The stealership didn't have the tool, but the guy said that you can do just as well by hooking up some clear tubing. Bought the tubing and realized when I got home that there's no nipple or anything get the tubing around. Does the actual meter screw into the drain hole? Am I missing something here?

Since adjusting the clip position it seems like the throttle is a lot more responsive, especially from a start where it doesn't seem to bog down as much as it did before. Is this to be expected or am I imagining things?

sounds like you are running less rich

leaner = snappier throttle

It was still running a little rich so I moved the clips out to the leanest position today. I checked the plugs too and they're fouled, NAPA should have them around 8 tonight. I think I might bite the bullet and replace my tubes anyways (per rage's suggestion, 17000mi and the tubes look pretty stock).