FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

I've got a 1991 fzr600 ( 17600 Miles)with brand new emgo 54mm POD filters and without even starting it i know it will need a jet kit or at least adjust the ones i have now...Im sure alot of you on here have done this before. So what would you recommend for the pleasure rider, a 1 & 3 jet kit from dyno jet or just jump to a stage 7 jet kit? Also I have to ration my time from work school ect.. so how long does it take to do all 4 carbs? and should i look into getting a high flow exhuast?

Thanks Danny

With the pods i would go to stage 7 if u dont mind it bogging a little when u first blimp the throttle from idle besides that it is amazing when tunned right i could keep up with my friends 1000 in top end till i toped out it was really smooth thru the whole rev range to

Bratman3401 wrote:With the pods i would go to stage 7 if u dont mind it bogging a little when u first blimp the throttle from idle besides that it is amazing when tunned right i could keep up with my friends 1000 in top end till i toped out it was really smooth thru the whole rev range to

Did you do it yourself or did you take it to a shop.....we have just about every tool known to man but we normally work on cars (non carberated).... I just wonder if i can do it myself... and how do you "tune?" i watched videos and it looks like alot of switching little parts more than actual tuning

So the bike already has the pod filters on it? If this isn't going to be a race bike stage 3 jetting with the pods should be fine. Swapping jets is something you can do yourself. It's pretty easy. The harder part is the synchronizing (some people consider this to be tuning)- which you can also do yourself. Others will disagree with that though.

Avoid stage 7 kits. They are for race only. They don't run well for daily driver stuff and destroy gas mileage. Jet kits are easy to install. The tuning comes into play by swapping actual jet sizes and adjusting needle height. It's time consuming and boring but not hard at all. Just get used to opening the carbs a lot for an entire saturday or sunday. Synching can be done with a home made sync tool or with a purchased tool from motion pro or the like. Since carbs should be synced twice a season, it makes sense to buy the tool if you are going to keep a carbed bike. Otherwise the homemade version is a lot cheaper and does the same job, just not in a compact solution. Whatever you decide, make sure to sync the carbs each time you close them back up after adjusting them. It will give you a much better base to start from each time.

+1 to what TK said. Stage 7 kits are made for 2 things: full open throttle, and full closed throttle, and while they excel at that, they are not meant for any daily driver stuff. I'd say go with a stage 3 and the Flo-Commander.

Personally, I wouldnt get a dyno jet kit. Theyre jets are proprietary sizes and can be a real PITA to deal with. Go with the Factory Pro stage 3. It uses genuine Mikuni jets. At this altitude, I had to step down to some small jets, if it had been a DJ kit, i would have had to special order them instead of just going to the dealer. At sea level, my bike screams with a stage 3 kit, but at a mile above sea level, its kind of a combination between the stage 1 and stage 3 kits. I have pods, full exhaust, ported head, and ign advance and I run a 32.5 pilot, 110 main, FP stage 3 needle, clip 4. At sea level, it becomes 35 pilot, 115 main, and clip 3 on the needle.

you all are some very knowledgable people....I guess now I just have to decide which one, factory or dyno jet kit....

Thank you for the help,

WheelingRider wrote:you all are some very knowledgable people....I guess now I just have to decide which one, factory or dyno jet kit....

Thank you for the help,

1} Factory Pro as they use the original mikuni jets
2 }The pods should NOT be mounted on the carbs as this shortens the inlet tract and screws with the jetting to make it VERY difficult to get running correctly
3) use plastic plumbing pipe the same diameter as the bell mouth on the carb and 0.5 inches longer than the original inlet rubber (the original went from carb to airbox )
You line the rubber with the plastic pipe and secure the rubber as normal to the carb.
Because the plastic is 0.5" longer you will have a half inch of plastic to clamp your pod to

This way the inlet tract is the same length so the waves inside it will be ok yes I know the air box resonance volume will be missing but this has very little effect on the tunability.

Do not be suprised if bigger jets make the whole thing far too rich our drag bikes we actually went down a size on mains & start jets.but we were at almost sea level.My personal "sleeper" bike went over a 3K mountain with no real trouble wether it would sustain at this level I have no idea YMMV

One thing to watch out for with pods, theyre always touchy to tune. It almost takes a degree in meteorology to tune them right. Temperature, humidity, etc all makes a difference. I run different main jets in the winter and summer.

mrfreeze5 wrote:One thing to watch out for with pods, theyre always touchy to tune. It almost takes a degree in meteorology to tune them right. Temperature, humidity, etc all makes a difference. I run different main jets in the winter and summer.

Yo MrFreeze,
question are you running pods on the carbs or on stalks as I suggested to the O.P?

yamaha_george wrote:

mrfreeze5 wrote:One thing to watch out for with pods, theyre always touchy to tune. It almost takes a degree in meteorology to tune them right. Temperature, humidity, etc all makes a difference. I run different main jets in the winter and summer.

Yo MrFreeze,
question are you running pods on the carbs or on stalks as I suggested to the O.P?

Mine are directly on the carb, but Ive been considering the extension idea for a while now.

mrfreeze5 wrote:One thing to watch out for with pods, theyre always touchy to tune. It almost takes a degree in meteorology to tune them right. Temperature, humidity, etc all makes a difference. I run different main jets in the winter and summer.

All the more reason for a flo-commander!

zero9243 wrote:

mrfreeze5 wrote:One thing to watch out for with pods, theyre always touchy to tune. It almost takes a degree in meteorology to tune them right. Temperature, humidity, etc all makes a difference. I run different main jets in the winter and summer.

All the more reason for a flo-commander!

. Its on the list.

zero9243 wrote:

mrfreeze5 wrote:One thing to watch out for with pods, theyre always touchy to tune. It almost takes a degree in meteorology to tune them right. Temperature, humidity, etc all makes a difference. I run different main jets in the winter and summer.

All the more reason for a flo-commander!

If the extensions do not work (unlikely) then last ditch is a flow commander ,
the tubes are a cheaper solution for sure