FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hey guys, I finally got around to pulling my engine out to clean all of the debris from around the spark plugs so I can change them and not worry about small shingle crap falling in the engine...I'm also adjusting the valve lash while I have the engine out since it's easier that way.

I noticed after cleaning the valve cover that there are a lot of very tiny cracks on the inside and outside of the valve cover. They aren't long enough to be concerned, I'll just have to make sure the bolts are torqued back to stock specs when I put them back on to avoid further cracking.

I was just wondering that as the cracks get worse, what mileage have you guys see this problem get severe enough to have to change it out for a newer one? And does the YZF600 valve cover fit?

The valve cover can be welded and Dremmel ground if any are real bad, just be careful with the TIG weld heat so not to warp the bugger

thanks, I'll probably buy one off of a newer bike if it gets bad enough to start leaking oil, either that or do a 660 conversion, that will fix it for sure! As of now, it's only very tiny cracks that aren't showing on the inside and outside, just the inside OR the outside, and I only noticed them when I cleaned it. I torq'd everything down to factory specs so it wouldn't crack more.

And I didn't have to adjust the valve lash, it was good, timing hasn't slipped a tooth. So I'm pretty sure the bike wasn't running because of the compression leak from around the spark plugs with all of the shingles pieces underneath the compression rings. Some of my comp rings were a little warped from junk being trapped underneath. I went through my carbs just to be safe and rule that out, that wasn't it, but at least they are spotless and synched again. And my spark is twice as hot as it was, I'm glad I pulled the engine out, I never pulled the spark plugs out because of the debris, and I forgot to pull them out and gap them wider because of the hotter spark. The escort coil pack would have destroyed the plugs with them gapped to stock width. They are .052 inches (1.3mm) now, escort recommended gap. Can't wait to put it back in and run it! With the valve lash good, compression good, timing good, fuel delivery good, hot spark, and new plugs...I can't wait to ride it!

On a down side, there is still a short in my harness between the brown/white wire (flasher) and some other hot, so my turn signals are a steady on and not flashing. I've tried everything aside from cutting the harness sheathing off, guess I'll do that soon, or I could just swap out the whole harness with the parts bike harness. Or rewire the YZF600 harness that I also have. I already have YZF600 switches. I shouldn't have sold the TPS off of the carbs, I could have used it with the YZF600 TCI so I would have timing advance. I still have the YZF600 flywheel, I would just need to sell my stator/cover and get the YZF stator/cover

Is it possible that the turn signal relay is stuck?

yamaha_george wrote:Is it possible that the turn signal relay is stuck?

the weird thing is that I can unplug the relay (not stock FZR relay or switches) and recreate the turn signal system and it works, but when the relay is plugged in it doesn't work. It must be wiring, I went over my rewire so many times I can't even count them, I drew up a diagram, everything works on paper, and outside of the harness, but when it's plugged into the harness it doesn't work. I had turn signal issues before I swapped out the switches and relay anyway. There has to be a pinched wire somewhere or the wire harness isn't as the wire diagram shows, either way I'll find out. I have two flashers, I could put both of them after the switches for a simple fix, one for left one for right.

match417 wrote:

yamaha_george wrote:Is it possible that the turn signal relay is stuck?

the weird thing is that I can unplug the relay (not stock FZR relay or switches)

THat is the problem I would think,, NOT all relays have the same value OR the same layout. CHECK those first

I keep thinking that the relay doesn't have enough resistance. I only have one turn signal on each side right now, I haven't put front ones on. And the two that are on right now are LED signals. So each side has one LED signal. It should just blink really fast. I'll put the other signal on and see what happens.

And as far as the relay that's on the bike, I have the YZF600 turn signal relay on it, I wired in the plug from the YZF harness, and recreated the YZF600 harness on my bike aside from the TCI. So I grounded the black wires that come out of our relay/switches, ignored the yellow/red wire from the stock relay, used brown white as the signal to the switch, and brown is the feed wire for the relay, and I have the relay wired exactly as it is on the YZF600. I also had to rewire the horn system because it interfered with the turn signals at first, so that is like the YZF600 harness also.

Anyway, like I said, I had turn signal issued before the rewire. I'm still leaning toward a pinched wire in the harness somewhere.

match417 wrote:I keep thinking that the relay doesn't have enough resistance. I only have one turn signal on each side right now, I haven't put front ones on. And the two that are on right now are LED signals. So each side has one LED signal. It should just blink really fast. I'll put the other signal on and see what happens.

And as far as the relay that's on the bike, I have the YZF600 turn signal relay on it, I wired in the plug from the YZF harness, and recreated the YZF600 harness on my bike aside from the TCI. So I grounded the black wires that come out of our relay/switches, ignored the yellow/red wire from the stock relay, used brown white as the signal to the switch, and brown is the feed wire for the relay, and I have the relay wired exactly as it is on the YZF600. I also had to rewire the horn system because it interfered with the turn signals at first, so that is like the YZF600 harness also.

Anyway, like I said, I had turn signal issued before the rewire. I'm still leaning toward a pinched wire in the harness somewhere.

The mechanical relay MUST have the correct load on it to work .
Ordinary relays will NOT work with LED loads, I have an electronic relay not mechanical and that works with bulbs & LEDs or any mix there of