FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

So I went to start the bike this morning and it cranked about 3 times before the battery died.. so I went and got the voltage meter and it read about 12.3 volts. When I went to crank it the battery went down to 7-8 v. I wont say it isnt a bad battery but I just bought the batt back in aug.

The bike was doing back then exactly what I am about to describe that it did today. After jumping the bike I didnt let it warm up as much as normal cause I was then running late, but still in temp ranges, I figured it would charge while I rode my 10 miles. The whole trip it kept wanting to die, and I stayed on the throttle. When I got to the gf's house it died completely and we had to drive her car, wh en I got back the neutral light and headlights would come on but the hl were a lil dim.

I didnt have the voltmeter so I tried to crank and the cdi just made a clicking noise. After hooking up the jumpers for a while I got it to jump but it didnt want to start for a while. Long story short I got home put the voltmeter to her and she read 11.3 at idle and 12.04 at 3000.

So last time this happened I did the flow chart thing from the archives and as I recall on my vr the ohms was 40 (this could be completely wrong and I might do it again tomorrow) but my ultimate question is that I thought that when a vr starts to go out the lights would start to blow and the vr would put out 14v or more.

So is there a way for me to check the stator to the vr or something else I am missing?
'Jax has a vr in my price range, for a yzf but as I read somewhere it would work, correct?
Also I know there are a ton of things on vr on here but I like to spell it out for myself and then when I get replies I print it all out. I think that's it except I have a 1995 600 and pretty sure I have the better vr. The flat big one as opposed to the 94- candy bar vr.


Thanks in advance,
Chris

Only way to know is do the tests again, but it does sound like ur VR..

test link:

http://naes.afraid.org/hosting/Diagnosis/charge.jpg

just had the same problem but my battery wasn't dropping so quick, turned out to be the VR so I did the yzf swap (mines a 94).

VR can fail one of two ways.

Failure to regulate voltage-which gives you the high voltage reading like you saw before.....14 or more volts.

Or, failure to allow charge voltage thru to to the battery-full shunt. The regulator 'spends' excess voltage into the chassis ground(shunts). A full shunt failure means it senses -and therefore sends ALL voltage aas shunt-and NONE to the battery.

BUT, your problem can be that the stator windings have failed and do not give the VR any AC voltage to rectify and regulate in the first place. Use the link Dragon posted and pinpoint your issue.

I shall try all this again in the morning. And thanks for the link, I seem to have lost my print out.

Chris.

So I went to test everything again today and here are my reults.... There were a few problems that I wanted to ask about... first when I went to test the neg term to the neg post I couldnt get an amp reading at all on 2 different meters... the meters only go down to the hundredths so by less than .1 amps on the chart mean really really small too? *EDIT* One thing I found confusing too is that when I couldnt get a reading I thought to myself maybe the chart ment to turn the bike off but leave the ignition on, silly I know, but then I tried that and obiously the lights wouldnt come on but when I touched both meter leads to the negs the lights came on and the meter read 5.4 amps(this mean anything?) *END EDIT* I had to jump the bike and then when I got it warmed up the bike didnt want to stay running with the vr off since the lack of volts on the battery. So I had to leave the jumpers on the batt to check the vr. All three combinations of white wires had 52 acv readings so by the chart that means bad vr.. well just for grins I decided to check the ohms on the white wires with the bike off and all the wires gave a .9 reading.. Im not sure if I did this right but I moved my meter dial to the omega symbol and then to the 200 slot. That should be right. Anyway I'm worried that something might be wrong since the bike would run with the vr connected but not unplugged, when the vr goes bad and doesnt put out 14v does it just put out less and not completely stop working like a light bulb(bad analogy). Im going to buy Jaxs yzf vr if he still has it and then worry about the stator, can only fix one at a time right?

Chris

Your amp test was accurate..no charge current-no reading.

Stator sounds good if supplying 52Vac on all three legs-that is ALL it is supposed/required to do..supply AC voltage....and 52Vac is great.

The VR 'dumps' excess voltage. When they fail on the low charging side. it is because the VR has stopped knowing what is 'excess' and what is 'normal'.

Your VR has died in the 'full shunt' way like I said in a previous post. It is taking ALL voltage it sees and dumping it to ground. This is a shorter path than thru the coils and plugs.

Put a VR in it.

Ok sounds good and that is what I came up with as well, thanks for the explinations, if I am told how or why something works I never forget it, not so much if just blindly told to do this. Yall are my heros....