FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

bike was running fine yesterday but went out to start it today and the battery was dead. Neutral light wouldnt even come on, charged it for a couple hours and got it back up to where its suppose to be, put it back in the bike and it wouldnt fire so I jumped it and it ran shitty. Couldnt get it over 35 mph and than when I came to a stop it died. Went to start it back up and no power, neutral light wouldnt even light up. Is it the regulator?

Most likely.

Check the battery fluid levels(top up with distilled water if necessary) and recharge it at low amperage (2 amps or less)for 12 hours at least.

While it's recharging, buy, beg, borrow, or steal a multimeter. Use it to check the battery voltage. If it isn't at least over 12.5VDC keep charging it until it is.

Install the battery back in the bike, check and note battery voltage, THEN start it. Rev it to 3000rpm and test the battery voltage again while the engine is at 3000rpm. if the voltage doesn't rise to 13.5 or more VDC your charging system is faulty.


there is a series of tests to determine if your stator is functional, or if your regulator is faulty.

You can find that here:

http://www.electrosport.com/technical-r ... -guide.php

battery is brand new. Maybe a month old

Jshak07 wrote:battery is brand new. Maybe a month old

Yeah, so what. They can be ruined by a bad regulator in hours, if not minutes.

If your charging system on the bike is no good, it can BE no good in two ways...NO charging (which can be VR issue OR stator issue OR both in combination)...which means the battery discharges deeply until the bike won't run....you charge it (often done with a high amperage automotive charger which will be waaay too strong and done waaay too fast-both of which cooks fluid out of batteries) and run it 'til it is dead again, and so on and so on...

Or, your VR allows too much voltage to the battery-which cooks the fluid into gas just like high amperage chargers do.

Both kinds of failure are really really hard on batteries.

The reason I told you to check fluid and charge it is because all the rest of the testing that you need to do to pinpoint the problem REQUIRES a fully charged, healthy battery.

If you want to correctly DIAGNOSE this problem, and to PINPOINT the fault, you NEED to check the battery fluid, add if necessary, and fully charge the battery in the correct way...BEFORE you start testing.

if you wanna screw around and maybe just start throwing parts at it, nevermind, just start assuming that simple things (like batteries) are good...replace everything else and maybe still come down to the battery is cooked.

Ok the battery looked to be full of fluid so I didnt add any water to it but I 2-amp charged the battery for about 10.5 hours, (it was reading 12.6 after I took it off the charger.) I hooked it up in the bike and it was reading 12.5, I went to start it and it dropped down to 4.3 and it didnt start. Than when I would release the start button it would sit right around 9 volts.

Jshak07 wrote:Ok the battery looked to be full of fluid so I didnt add any water to it but I 2-amp charged the battery for about 10.5 hours, (it was reading 12.6 after I took it off the charger.) I hooked it up in the bike and it was reading 12.5, I went to start it and it dropped down to 4.3 and it didnt start. Than when I would release the start button it would sit right around 9 volts.

Your battery is no good. Get it warranteed.

What caused the battery to go bad? It worked fine for about a month. Should I replace the regulator as well so it doesnt possibly kill the next battery I buy?

Jshak07 wrote:What caused the battery to go bad? It worked fine for about a month. Should I replace the regulator as well so it doesnt possibly kill the next battery I buy?

It may just be that the battery was a crappy one from the factory. It has a dead cell now. It shouldn't drop below 10.2Vdc under load from the starter.

I would get a good battery that WILL hold a charge and load in it and then test your VR as described above-then make the decsion as to whether or not you need a new one (VR)

Now I know my starter is not the best because everytime before I start the bike I would have to push on the starter. Could this have been what killed my battery? A guy I met the other day said he used to have this exact model bike and he went thru starters like it was nothing.

Switched to an R6 sealed battery, you can get them online for 50

i don't trust unsealed anymore

Jshak07 wrote:Now I know my starter is not the best because everytime before I start the bike I would have to push on the starter.

"push on the starter" ???? What does that mean?

If an FZR engine is hard on starters, it has mechanical issues-like no valve lash, or very very poor carb tuning.

My starter cranks a total of 2 seconds at most and the engine is running.

I would go to start the bike and it would just "click, click, click" so I would pop the seat, wiggle the starter around a little bit and than it would fire right up. What battery would you recommend to buy? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-R ... ccessories

i have a similar battery i think and i love it the only thing is that it is slightly bigger than stock so i shaved the battery box and it fit