FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

The tach on my new 93 doesn't work. I plugged in the old one and it worked, but the cluster is busted. Guy smashed a deer in TWO. . He stayed on the bike too.

Anyhow he said its a different cluster and I'm assuming it was a yamaha, it looks similar and only a few wires are different. Everything else works but the tach for the most part. The gauge lights and high beam indicator light flicker when I play with the start button.

Is it possible the tach needs a different signal?

It should have been plug and play.

Would you happen to have a pic of what you are trying to get working on your bike?

Here. Just the turn signal indicator light was wired wrong. Two power wires were running to the light instead of a ground.

Could a malfunctioning high voltage VR have broke the tach? The cluster is different from the old one, and I don't see how I can install the old tach into this cluster.

I checked resistance between all the tach terminals and they are very close to the old tach. Not sure if that means anything.

It is possible that the VR cooked the tacho, it did happen twice to me.

theres a capacitor inside the tach assembly and ill bet its blown. very easy to replace though. crack it open i bet im right

I already tried to pull the tach apart and couldn't figure it out. I don't know if the face is supposed to pop off or what. I undid the two rear little screws.

If the cap was blown wouldn't the resistance change between the terminals? Well obviously something is broke. I will try to pull it apart again and look for the capacitor.

Thanks for the tip!!!

that cap is actually beneath the face of the gauge its orangish colored . just take all the screws out of the back and the gauge case should seperate

I'm pretty sure the tach isn't meant to be taken apart. The face ring was pressed/bent around the plastic. I got it off though. Didn't see any capacitors that I was used to, if any at all. I also couldn't find anything burnt, and there is continuity from all poles to both wires on the actuator. ???

Here is what mine looks like with its guts spilled.

http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii25 ... 9_2006.jpg

If I have to replace it, would a properly sized automotive one work? A nice autometer would look bad ass in there.

I believe this tach pulls a signal from only one coil...

that big round thing in the middle is the capacitor and though fuzzy it looks good to me from here. Dont worry about taking it apart I have takenmine apart just like that and its fine.

I really buggered up the face ring though. It'll go back together ok.

Either I will have to shoot all the wires and check for proper resistance, I just learned about resistor color codes. I'm not looking forward to it. If I can figure out how to wire in a car tach, I'm going to do that. A 3 3/8" will fit right in. I think this tach uses a signal from only one coil/one cylinder, whereas a car tach uses multiple signals from a single coil. I know you can adjust them from v8 to 4 cyl, but I'm not sure how it'll work with one cylinder.

Nothing appears to be burnt in there. Everything has continuity. The first thing to go would have to be a resistor though right?

First thing I'll do is try and decipher the capacitor and figure out how to test it. I don't understand why a tach would need a capacitor anyway?

good luck finding a car tach that revs 12k

That is difficult, but I found one that goes to 18.

The screws on the back just held the guts in. The faceplate had to be pried off like opening a can of beans with a screwdriver. I just swapped the guts from the old one.