FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

What's the best type of oil to use? I went to a motorcycle store and they recommended full synthetic. But I've heard organic is better. What's the deal? Best brands?

Shell Rotella, they have a syn and a dino that are great, and cheap!

~11 bucks for the dyno and under 20 for the syn

haunter wrote:Shell Rotella, they have a syn and a dino that are great, and cheap!

~11 bucks for the dyno and under 20 for the syn

Thats what i just went with. 15w40

I've used Yamalube cuz that's all that was run in it by the previous owners. Is there any problem with switching, or is that myth?

I was told that once you go synthetic, it's not a good idea to go backwards. So I don't want to use it if it's not a good idea in the first place anyway. Plus it's kinda pricey going full-synth. But brand names I think make no difference?

for conventional oil make sure it is not Energy-conserving, Energy-conserving has friction modifiers that are bad for wet clutch systems. All 5w40, 5w50, 10w40, 15w40, 15w50, and 20w50 oils which I have found are not energy-conserving and can be recommended for general motorcycle use.. I use 15/50 mobil..I dont know much about synthetic, I use in my car...For Car motor break in i use conventional, than switch to synth. after break in...

AraiPnai wrote:I was told that once you go synthetic, it's not a good idea to go backwards. So I don't want to use it if it's not a good idea in the first place anyway. Plus it's kinda pricey going full-synth. But brand names I think make no difference?

as far as I can tell


thats bs. load of crap or whatever

I have swapped around oil types in vehicles before without issues.

I do beleive that you shouldnt break a motor in with Synthetic due to its increbile slipperyness or whatever and that it can prevent the rings from ever sealing well

plus....when you break it in you change the oil a TON...so why keep running pricey oil through it anyways

I have never tried synth. in bike, always felt it could effect the clutch, it lubricates so well, would think clutch would tend to slip but

I'd reccomend diesel engine oil. No friction modifiers, good resistance to viscosity breakdown, Great for our wet clutch and they're cheap!

I've used Mobil delvac, and shell rotella (and mobil one, but that gave me clutch slip)
The delvac wasn't bad, but I like running the 5w40 rotella synthetic.

I'm running Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40. No clutch slippage and the bike runs smoother. Also I'm using a Supertech filter.

I spent less than $20 for all of it. I think it was a good deal.

moochems wrote:I've used Mobil delvac, and shell rotella (and mobil one, but that gave me clutch slip)
The delvac wasn't bad, but I like running the 5w40 rotella synthetic.

I've wondered whether mobil one would work or not, I put that in the cage.

I use the Q8 MOTO SBK Racing 10W-50 100% synthetic oil

Q8 MOTO SBK Racing 10W-50 is a high performance, fully synthetic engine oil for use in motorcycles.
It has been designed with race proven technology and is compatible with all wet clutch systems.
Using the latest additive technology, Q8 MOTO SBK Racing 10W-50 meets the lates Japanese, American and European specifications.
It is an extreme high performance four stroke motorcycle engine oil designed for use in all riding conditions including off-road and endurance.
It is also recommended for the latest high performance multi valve engines with catalysts.


Q8 motorcycle oil page : http://www.q8oil.co.uk/motorcycleoils.asp



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Modified96 wrote:I'm running Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40. No clutch slippage and the bike runs smoother. Also I'm using a Supertech filter.

I spent less than $20 for all of it. I think it was a good deal.

I run rotella in all my bikes now, syn and dino

after benidng over and taking it for one case of Mobile 1 4T I wont do it again!

good thread, I changed my oil a few weeks back and ended up going to a suzuki shop (only one around). I bought suzuki oil but I'm thinking the suzukis might be slightly different because now my clutch slips. Might be a dumb Q but where can I get that Rotella oil?

AraiPnai wrote:I was told that once you go synthetic, it's not a good idea to go backwards. So I don't want to use it if it's not a good idea in the first place anyway. Plus it's kinda pricey going full-synth. But brand names I think make no difference?

Hi,
Well a friend who is literally " a rocket scientist" (fuels / oils is his specialist subject ) once told me that wet clutches must not have additives for anti-friction whether they be synth or dino oil.

As to what was better dino or synth he said full synth as the shear level (ie the oil protection from metal on metal was far higher ) as to how to do a swap on a bike was just replace dino with synth & run as normal no break in required as synth tends to run thinner but with better protection at engine temps.

However going back to dino after synth would take longer for the synth to be "moved out" by dino so for awhile you will be running both BUT what ever you do NEVER flush an engine with solvent to remove an oil.

If the clutch plates get loaded with anti-stick addatives take them out & replace. IF you are lucky soaking the plates MAY remove the additive but without ultra-sonics as well he considered them disposable

DISCLAIMER he now works for BEL_RAY so......................... Nerd