FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

1. Gonna make this quick, In the process of fixing, need help.
2. Replacing a broker clutch push rod, chain and sprockets,
3. Remove drive sprocket cover, replace drive sprocket and chain,
4. Replace rear sprocket
5. Remove clutch cover and clutch,
6. Replace clutch push rod reinstalling ball bearing in the same order it came out,
7. Put all the clutch plates back on in the same order they came off and in the same position,
8. Tighten clutch bolts (the ones with the springs that apply pressure on the clutch plates) similar to how you tighten lug nuts and torque to roughly 5 lbs.
9. Reinstall clutch cover.
10. Filled with “Valvoline 10W-40 4 stroke motorcycle oil” (Double checked, it was not over filled)
11. Went to start the bike, clutch will not disengage.
12. Tried adjusting the clutch lever and the adjuster down on the drive sprocket cover.

Whats wrong with my bike? I need help!

-Thanks, Andrew

What order did you adjust the clutch?
Adjust the lever so there is slack in it first, then adjust the screw on the clutch cover.
After you adjust the clutch at the cover, then adjust your lever.

Check out the thread "Slippery Clutch" in the 600 forums, it has a very good write up by Mark on how to adjust your clutch.
See if that works.

That is the order I adjusted it, thanks i'll try to find that thread.

-Andrew

edit: Actually that’s the thread I found last night and followed those instructions, just did not recognize the title. Clutch will still not disengage.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2535

Read down to like the 3rd post

The pressure plate goes on 5 different ways. Only ONE is correct and will let the clutch work.

There is a small hole(2mm?) in the pressure plate. There is also a triangle/arrow cast into the clutch hub (at the tip of one of the inner splines). These have to be lined up.

When you line those up, you will feel the hub 'fall' in farther towards the clutch stack than the other positions.

make sure you can see the inner edge of the pressure plate actually in contact with the plate stack before you start the spring screws.

and make sure the cable is actually connected to the lever inside the sprocket cover. i was adjusting my clutch months ago and the cable had apparently come disengaged. my clutch cable is pretty stiff anyway so i didn't really notice much difference. when i finally saw the cable came disengaged i felt like an idiot, but at least i found what was wrong and it was a very easy fix, unlike the rest of my transmission work

hmmm. checked to make sure that the clutch wire was still attached, it was. Drained the oil and removed the clutch cover to see if the little dot was lined up with the arrow and it also was. Time to start from the very beginning assuming I did everything wrong. Lets hope I find the problem that way. I will report whatever I find to be wrong.

-Thanks, Andrew-

Clutch wont engage.

Sounds like your adjustments are off. You let out clutch and it doesnt move? Try taking all the slack out of the lever side and then adjust from the bottom. Leave your fairings off until your finished and its fixed.

95FZR600 wrote:Clutch wont engage.

Sounds like your adjustments are off. You let out clutch and it doesnt move? Try taking all the slack out of the lever side and then adjust from the bottom. Leave your fairings off until your finished and its fixed.

Hi,
If you are certain that the hole & triangle mark are right, do not put your clutch cover back on but adjust the clutch cable as is .
The reason being you can actually see the pressure plate move when you heave on the clutch lever and pull the cable.

My betting is that it will not move.

Reason it is oh so easy to "drop" the little ball that goes between the long push rod & the little push rod and that is what will "eat" away any adjustment you may have but still not allow the clutch to disengage.

PS I have not actually done this myself on FZR's but I know others on other Yamaha's that have

Time for an update….

First off, unfortunately I am back at school now and not at home with my bike, but I will be going back and forth a lot so I would like to continue trying to solve this problem.

After I drained the oil and removed the clutch cover most recently I tried to adjust the clutch lever and clutch push rod screw thing using the instructions provided by all of you. The same thing kept happening, with the clutch spring bolts torqued to 5lbs (dry), I would clutch the bike while it was in gear and try to roll it forward or back. I could see the clutch hub moving but only a very small amount. It had so much resistance that when all my weight was going through my feet into the ground (none of the seat) to push the bike the back tire would rather skip than turn the clutch. So the clutch is kind of doing its job but not fully. On top of that the lever was much, much harder to pull then it was before I started this mess.

One thing that I have been taking into consideration is that the temperature is in the 30’s, which might have something to do with everything, or nothing

Note: Double and triple checked, the little circle matches up with the triangle (I also checked by putting it in the wrong way just to see what you were talking about) and the ball bearing is between the small and large clutch push rods.

-As always, thanks for all the help, Anderw-

OK so we seem to have tried it all and failed.

Lets try out of the box thinking :-
one ball is in place and the plate hardly moves to allow the clutch to dis-engage.
Put in a second ball between the two and see if the plate now moves more in tune with the amount of clutch lever pull you put in.

If this is the case or The clutch now will not engage ie the pressure plat is being pushed out even when the adjustment is slacked right of the cable (NOT just the lever not pulled) we have a push rod problem.

Whilst the rods are hardened steel they do wear and a lip on the outer diameter can be formed and play silly buggers with the smooth action of the clutch.

There is an allarm bell going off in my old grey matter about the FZR rod and one other model of Yammy having a none same od rod over its complete length but has a machined in difference. Please check this for me as that being the wrong way round could cause the heaviness of pull (ie the bloody rod is sticking) . Remove the rod and check that we have not bent it if there is a ridge on it .

When you get back home try this and let me know please as this is beginning to bug me.
Cheers
Y_G

I finally found a weekend to get away from school and work of the FZR so time to get this thread started back up.

So first thing I did was check to make sure the rod is not bent as George suggested, it is not. I did not try to ball thing yet simply because it has been so long since I last worked on the bike (and now its warm out) I’m going to try the adjustments again.

After checking the rod, I reinstalled everything in the same order it came off and torqued the clutch bolts back to 5lbs (dry with no oil on bolts), same problem (clutch locks up and seems not to disengage when clutch is pulled). I then started messing around with the cable adjustment on the handle bars and this is where I seemed to gain some ground. I played with it enough so that when the clutch is engaged the rear tire does not move if I try to walk the bike. Then when I pull the clutch and I can move the bike forward and back but it is more difficult than it seems it should be to move a bike when when the clutch is pulled in. the clutch is dragging and still partially engaged. All this is done with the clutch cover off and no oil obviously. My question is with oil added will it make it easier to move or walk the bike when the clutch is pulled? I don’t want to reinstall the clutch cover and fill with oil, again (like 5 times already), without getting this ironed out.

Thanks gentlemen.

double post, sorry

Not to sure about the 600 but i can lean my 1000 over slightly against wall about 15degres and remove cover with oil still in bike and lose only 1/2 cup.
one thing you can do is soak you fibres in oil overnight then reinstall if they are new fibres this is required anyway(for at least 1/2 hr).Also make sure all the steels are facing the same way,either sharp outer edge in or out.You will see the edge is rounded on one side and sharp on the other where they were cut.
Everyone is assuming you have reused fibres????Are they new????
Stretched clutch cable.Assume you have only small freeplay before pressure on lever from clutch.

Good luck .Cheers Steve

I’m not totally familial with the term fibres, I’m assuming you are talking about the clutch discs though. Yes they are reused discs, as for the free play there is like almost none. I’m defiantly going to go check that all the steels are facing the same way, they should be because I never separated them when I took them off. I kept everything together the same way if came off reinstalling it the same way. Never hurts to double check though.

-Thanks, Andrew