FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

I just happend to slip in on a "Suzuki" site....
and found this :




XXXXX Clutch Anti Drag Shim

"The stock XXXXX often suffers from excessive clutch drag caused by incorrect clearance between
the clutch basket bearing collar and the inner hub assembly.

This shim is specifically made to increase the space the clutch basket and the inner hub.

Made from EDM precision cut heat treated steel.

Installs in minutes".

http://www.rg500.com/miva/merchant.mvc? ... Code=RG500



My question is :

* Has the FZR-600 ever had this type of problem ?

* What is the correct clearance on the FZR-600 between the clutch basket bearing collar and the inner hub assembly ?

* How do I measure the clearance on my bike ?

i've never had a problem , my clutch doesn't drag at all , it's just as easy to roll the bike in neutral as it is in gear with the clutch in . i can't speak for others but it doesn't seem to be a problem with the fzr's , the usual problem is people haven't adjusted their clutch , or they've done it incorrectly . but good looking out . i can't tell you anything about the measurements because it's never come up , sorry .

both my 1k's have had clutch drag

but both bikes had barnett kits with HD springs

haunter wrote:
but both bikes had barnett kits with HD springs

Please explain what this is ?

I assume that HD means Heavy Duty springs , What make ? and how much harder ?

.

Lasse wrote:

haunter wrote:
but both bikes had barnett kits with HD springs

Please explain what this is ?

I assume that HD means Heavy Duty springs , What make ? and how much harder ?

.

http://www.barnettclutches.com/products ... ch_cc=1000

Those guy's. Yes heavy duty, I dont recall how much, 20-40% maybe?

THey arguably make the best clutches out there for motorcycles

IMO the Barnett clutches are great...The springs are super heavy compared to stock, will make hand tired for a few months at beginning of season, if you guys want to tighten clutch without HD springs, Old school trick is to use an extra washer on the bolts that hold spring on, I have used this mod and have had no problems, I got washers smaller with holes smaller than the bolt and drilled to fit bolt as tight as possible... Make sure if you ever remove clutch you are carefull when you tighten the bolts that hold springs in.. THEY WILL SNAP AT HEAD, due to the slim shaft between threads and head....

mpap wrote:. Make sure if you ever remove clutch you are carefull when you tighten the bolts that hold springs in.. THEY WILL SNAP AT HEAD, due to the slim shaft between threads and head....

M,
I would hope that you would be using a torque driver at that point so unless you are using old stretched bolts sheering should NEVER be a problem. Nerd

Not everyone has a 3/8th" drive torque wrench.I didnt at first only 1/2 inch.. Should it be torqued ? Yes.... Do I always ? Didn't Thats how i know they break.. ...

mpap wrote:Not everyone has a 3/8th" drive torque wrench.I didnt at first only 1/2 inch.. Should it be torqued ? Yes.... Do I always ? Didn't Thats how i know they break.. ...

M,
Torque wrenches for bike work come in 1/4 , 3/8, 1/2 and bigger for trucks & the odd single side swingarm wheel nut at 50mm 1" drive

You also have to check that the torque wrench covers the range of "power" you need.

On top of that you can buy torque screw drivers but you do need a fat bill fold for those

* What is the correct clearance on the FZR-600 between the clutch basket bearing collar and the inner hub assembly ?

* How do I measure the clearance between the clutch basket bearing collar and the inner hub assembly on my FZR-600 ?