FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

I'm sure I need to make a tool out of allthread or something to hold the nut still at the bottom of the forks so i can unscrew the bolt on the bottom of the forks when I change my seals. What size socket is required to hold the fork internals still? Anyone know? I'm going to try to unscrew the bottom bolt without unscrewing the fork cap to keep the fork inner tubes under pressure and hopefully the bottom bolt will spin out, but if it doesn't, i need to make the tool.

Here is a good write up on how to do your forks. It has the info for the tool and everything.

Fork Stuff

slayermd wrote:Here is a good write up on how to do your forks. It has the info for the tool and everything.

Fork Stuff

THANK YOU SIR!

slayermd wrote:Here is a good write up on how to do your forks. It has the info for the tool and everything.

Fork Stuff

That is a great write up. Some things to add on how I did the seals on my old 600:

Make sure to slide the seals on "number side up", which means spring side down.

I made the damper tool using a 5/8" threaded rod (3ft in length) and 4 nuts at each end. I put lock washers in between to hold them in place. Although Heath's tool looks much better.

I made my"seal driver" from a 1.5 inch diameter pvc pipe-3 feet in length. Tape the seal end with duct tape so you don't damage the new seals. The pvc pipe will slip over the inner fork tubes perfectly and you can then use a hammer to drive the bearings and seals evenly. Got all the stuff needed for this at home depot for quite cheap.

The whole process took me about 3 hours from start to finish but that's because I gave every part involved a good cleaning before reassembly.

Hope that helps as well.

match417 wrote:I'm sure I need to make a tool out of allthread or something to hold the nut still at the bottom of the forks so i can unscrew the bolt on the bottom of the forks when I change my seals. What size socket is required to hold the fork internals still? Anyone know? I'm going to try to unscrew the bottom bolt without unscrewing the fork cap to keep the fork inner tubes under pressure and hopefully the bottom bolt will spin out, but if it doesn't, i need to make the tool.

When i disassempled my fzr 400 forks, i had the same ploblem: what should i do, to stand still the inner mechanism? Yamaha, on the service manual refers about a "special tool" with many numbers on. When i took a good look of the fork's inner, i guess that it was a huge allen bolt what had to stand still. That moment, a few meters away of me, was standing an iron bar. I noticed that the allen bolt head should be at 27mm. Searching on a bucket with old bolts, i found one with 27mm head. Then i weld it on the one end of that iron bar (it was about 1metre long), and i curved the other end of the bar, about 20cm at 90 degrees to allow me hold it steel. That was my "csofos special tool" for unbolting fzr 400 forks. Ithink the dimensions must be the same for your 600. Thus 27mm. You can try to find out, by taking a magnet on a long stick having different sizes of bolt heads on the other.
I hope i helped you. Have a happy new year

If you have access to an air compressor/tools you often don't need the special tool. Hell, you often don't need it at all.

Take the lower bolt out before you remove the fork cap. It is threaded into the damping rod (what csofos is calling "huge allen bolt"). As long as the fork cap is in place the damping rod is held in place by the spring. An impact wrench with the appropriate allen socket usually zings the bolt out in one shot. Even with a ratchet, you get them out more often than not. If the damping rod spins, turn the fork upside down and compress it while you are turning the bolt.

reelrazor wrote:If you have access to an air compressor/tools you often don't need the special tool. Hell, you often don't need it at all.

Take the lower bolt out before you remove the fork cap. It is threaded into the damping rod (what csofos is calling "huge allen bolt"). As long as the fork cap is in place the damping rod is held in place by the spring. An impact wrench with the appropriate allen socket usually zings the bolt out in one shot. Even with a ratchet, you get them out more often than not. If the damping rod spins, turn the fork upside down and compress it while you are turning the bolt.

Yeah, I know its easier if the spring is under compression and it doesn't allow the bolt to spin. And I do have access to pneumatic tools and a compressor, but the little allen sockets I have are too short to fit into the bottom of the fork, I would have to order the tool or something. I don't know if sears would have those sockets with a longer allen key. I've thought about cutting the curved end off of my 8mm allen key and putting it into an 8mm socket, but I don't want to ruin a tool. If I can't find one I might end up doing that though.

I gota long set of allen sockets from the Cornwell truck.

If you have decent allen sockets they should hold the key part in the socket body with a set screw. If so, your idea to cut the long shank off an 8mm allen and put it in the socket would work nicely.

ther's quite a few threads engaged on those bolts. I wouldn't even think about turning em out with anything less than a 'T' handle. Allen sockets rule.

this might help you match

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5A0p2OH6FmI

shredex wrote:this might help you match

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5A0p2OH6FmI

thanks man, but i've taken apart forks before, just not the fzr forks. That video is helpful, but it doesn't tell me anything new.

match417 wrote:I'm sure I need to make a tool out of allthread or something to hold the nut still at the bottom of the forks so i can unscrew the bolt on the bottom of the forks when I change my seals. What size socket is required to hold the fork internals still? Anyone know? I'm going to try to unscrew the bottom bolt without unscrewing the fork cap to keep the fork inner tubes under pressure and hopefully the bottom bolt will spin out, but if it doesn't, i need to make the tool.

There is acomplete description of fork tool making at my site:

http://www.saltmine.org.uk/fzr/fork.html

Do as I did use square bar not threaded it is far easier to hold on a vice for sure :-} For the whole yamaha range I made 3 1/2 double ended tools never needed air tools never scuffed a fork leg easy peasy. for USD forks you will need to make a Horseshoe out of a Penny washer of at least 16 guage pref 14G.