this is from the other forum
Ignition Advancer - Remove the lower left fairing. Right in front of the sprocket cover is where the advancer goes. It's the cover that sticks out of the fairing with "Yamaha" on it. Remove a few allen bolts and the the cover will come loose. Just a bit though cuz there's a wire ontop with a rubber piece holding
it. Slide the rubber piece outward and the whole cover will come off. I loosened the little clip holding the wire a little further down from the end connection and that allowed me to place the cover between the petcock and engine block rather than have it hanging in the way. You need an impact wrench to loosen the bolt holding the flywheel, but I used a strap wrench that I bought for my oil filter. It's a nylon strap connected to a bar that fits a 1/2" socket. With that and another socket you can remove the bolt holding the flywheel on. You must be careful though. You don't wanna warp the flywheel with the strap wrench. After removing the bolt get some WD40 or something to shoot in the hole around the shaft. Insert the big bolt that comes with the advancer and slowly tighten to pull the flywheel off. As you tighten it pushes the flywheel off. I used a rubber mallet to tap on the flywheel and the bolt cuz I was having a hard time removing it. I then found my WD40, sprayed some and off it came. So, spray the WD40 first. Watch that when you pull the wheel off you don't loose the advancer key. I put my new
one in so that the lip that sticks out above the shaft is facing the front of the bike. You also wanna make sure you have the stock size plugs in. Too hot of a plug and an advancer will burn up something. Tighten everything up and take it for a test run. You should notice the rpms are a bit higher. Mine wasn't anything drastic. Just a little higher than normal, but it will pull harder now in the low end.
Home-made Ignition Advancer
Hi, there. Those of you who is considering to buy an advancer kit can try this small project. The idea is by shifting the p/u coil position. All you need is a grinder with a 5 mm thick grinding stone. Less than 5 mm is preferred, also if it is an electric one. If you don’t have one, don’t buy it, just buy an advancer kit instead or with some effort, small size filer will also work.
1. Remove the left lower cowling.
2. Remove the left side engine cover by loosening all the allen bolt evenly. Pull this cover away from engine evenly. You will see the stator and pick up coil (a small black box) attached to the cover.
3. You will find that a bunch of cable keeps this engine cover unit from being taken away to your working bench. You’ll also find that 2 metal clips in two places keep the cable attached to engine assembly. Bent them slightly to loosen the cable away. Find two connectors which connect this bunch of cable to the main cable harness. Disconnect them.
4. To do the job easier, you might want to remove the stator and pick up coil from the engine cover. Three allen bolt keeps the stator and two screws keep the p/u coil in their place. It might be necessary to use an impact driver to remove the p/u coil screw.
5. Hold the p/u coil with its cable facing away from you and the reading notch facing down. You will get this view.
6. Grind off the black colored section of p/u coil base plate. See the picture below. Avoid making the ground area wider than the screw hole diameter. You can easily do this by using a grinding stone which thickness is less than the screw hole diameter. You will also notice that the black colored section on the left side base plate is slightly angled in order to compensate the increase of gap between the reading notch and stator notch when you shift its position. Carefully consider the angle yourself, since you don’t want the upper part of left side base plate is cut off or left with weak connection to the p/u coil body.
7. Install the stator and p/u coil back to the engine cover. When you install the p/u coil, try to shift it as far as possible to the left. You’ll get approximately. 4 deg. for every 5 mm shift. You get the furthest shift if the left side screw head touches the p/u coil body. You might want to slightly grind off the tip of upper part of left side base plate if it touches the engine cover inner wall before the screw head touches the p/u coil body.
8. Install the engine cover back. Connect all cables. Run all cables through their original metal clips.
GOOD LUCK with your experiment.
and the link for it
http://www.fzrarchives.com/fzr600/work_ ... ancer.html
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