FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

What is the purpose of the second throttle cable the one on the bottom or if you open the throttle the one that wraps almost all the way around the throttle handle? Reason I ask is i seen mine was a bit rusty on the inside and squirted some pb down it and pulled it a bit, and out it came. I put the throttle back together and started it up and give it a twist and it worked fine then shut it off. From the looks of the cable that was broke it looks like its been broke for a long time. Im sure its just to help close the carbs but if they are spring loaded why even put a second on?

I think that cable closes the throttle once the throttle is released. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

It is the return/closure cable. And, no it is not completely necessary. Most of the custom harley guys eliminate the return cable just to clean up their control setups.

It IS fairly advisable to have it in place and functional. If the throttle sticks open, the return cable provides positive manual closure-that's why the manufacturors started putting them on bikes in the first place.

just as i figured but il still ride the season out without it and fix it in winter. Throttle sticks kill switch still works

my throttle sticks a bit and I like it...it acts as cruise control and I can let go of my bars, sit back, and enjoy the ride.
(Only relaxing if you have a steering damper)

shredex wrote:my throttle sticks a bit and I like it...it acts as cruise control and I can let go of my bars, sit back, and enjoy the ride.
(Only relaxing if you have a steering damper)

You should not keep it like that. Either lube it or get a new one. That is dangerous.

95FZR600 wrote:

shredex wrote:my throttle sticks a bit and I like it...it acts as cruise control and I can let go of my bars, sit back, and enjoy the ride.
(Only relaxing if you have a steering damper)

You should not keep it like that. Either lube it or get a new one. That is dangerous.

it stopped sticking after I lubed it up...but it doesnt matter because I cant go no-hands anymore because of my bent steering damper

the second cable keeps the first cable from possibly releasing, or shifting to a position that will make it release later on, by manually rolling the throttle back forward as fast or faster than the carbs can spring it back (like with a quick reflex in a near crash if you were to roll it forward extremely fast)..so one always pushes and one always pulls..it's a safety thing...actually i just made that up....but i think that's why it's there..it makes sense

what do you guys use to lube your cables? i thought about regular motor oil or motorcycle oils because of the special polymer mix for longer lubrication than regular motor oil, it's just so expensive..mine needs it..i have the "cruise control" feature too..

match417 wrote:what do you guys use to lube your cables? i thought about regular motor oil or motorcycle oils because of the special polymer mix for longer lubrication than regular motor oil, it's just so expensive..mine needs it..i have the "cruise control" feature too..

I use "Lubriplate Chain and Cable Lube". I get it at my local CarQuest. It goes on wet so it wicks in like a penetrating oil but tacks up. It's clear/colorless. Works well on pivots (brake lever/pedal, shift lever/linkages). It's about $6 for a 12oz. can. I've had the same can for a year or so.

"Tri-flow" is really really good too but seems harder to find (usually find it in the gun section of Dunham's Sports), and expensive.

reelrazor wrote:

match417 wrote:what do you guys use to lube your cables? i thought about regular motor oil or motorcycle oils because of the special polymer mix for longer lubrication than regular motor oil, it's just so expensive..mine needs it..i have the "cruise control" feature too..

I use "Lubriplate Chain and Cable Lube". I get it at my local CarQuest. It goes on wet so it wicks in like a penetrating oil but tacks up. It's clear/colorless. Works well on pivots (brake lever/pedal, shift lever/linkages). It's about $6 for a 12oz. can. I've had the same can for a year or so.

"Tri-flow" is really really good too but seems harder to find (usually find it in the gun section of Dunham's Sports), and expensive.

RR,
At one time Yamaha stopped us from using spray can lubes due to solvent additives breaking down the inner sheath on their cables.
We then used drip feed style oiling.
We used kids modelling clay at the top end to make a funnel and poured in machine oil the bottom end we just used a take away food box as a collector.
For full services it was actually cheaper & quicker to do this as I made up welding rod with clothes pegs on to hold the cables.

Dragon wrote:I think that cable closes the throttle once the throttle is released. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Hey Dragon like your heat shield on the lower pipe looks neat

don't be a cheap-ass, replace the throttle cable. next thing i know you'll be riding the damn thing without sprockets!



nobody should be encouraging him to let it go or do it half-assed.

the correct cable lube can be found here-
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_c ... Id=&mmyId=

or see if your local shop / auto store has something similar. Honestly, i got the kit with this and it didn't work very well, but if you actually take the cable totally off and blast the hell out of it it will get in there and seems to be really good stuff.

yea, part of my accident a week a go had to do with my return cable not giving a good enough response.
when I slammed on my front brake, the throttle was still open and the rear wheel was spinning which caused the bike to slide out from under me.
not fun.
before you grease it up, spray some engine degreaser onto it and let it sit for a minute. it will take off all the gunk on the cable.

yamaha_george wrote:

Dragon wrote:I think that cable closes the throttle once the throttle is released. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Hey Dragon like your heat shield on the lower pipe looks neat

Thanks, George.