FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

the good news is:
After I lowered the front of my bike 2", stop lights change for me! I dont have to flicker my high beams or anything.

the bad news:
My bikes charging system doesnt work worth crap. I have to carry jumper cables around with me because my bike wont start after a ride because the battery has drained.
I had a guy look at my battery and he said its fine, my bike just doesnt charge it at all. he said it is either the stator or VR.

He's probably right. But if you keep recharging a battery it is gonna be bad too, in not too long a time.

Break out the multimeter and figger it out.

reelrazor wrote:He's probably right. But if you keep recharging a battery it is gonna be bad too, in not too long a time.

Break out the multimeter and figger it out.

thats what he checked it with.
and he had me hold the bike at 3k rpms and thats when he said that the bike wasnt charging.

and I put my battary on my battery maintaner every night.

My YZF-600 started doing the samething this week.

It's probably not your stator. More than likely it's the VR...might was well replace/updgrade to a better one.

Click here to see how ..

shredex wrote:

reelrazor wrote:He's probably right. But if you keep recharging a battery it is gonna be bad too, in not too long a time.

Break out the multimeter and figger it out.

thats what he checked it with.
and he had me hold the bike at 3k rpms and thats when he said that the bike wasnt charging.

and I put my battary on my battery maintaner every night.

I meant, get the meter out and check the stator and reg/rect unit. If the stator is bad and you put a new reg/rect on it you may well fry the new $100 reg/rect and still have the same problem. Make sure the stator is good/bad and then test the reg/rect before you buy one.

reelrazor wrote:

shredex wrote:

reelrazor wrote:He's probably right. But if you keep recharging a battery it is gonna be bad too, in not too long a time.

Break out the multimeter and figger it out.

thats what he checked it with.
and he had me hold the bike at 3k rpms and thats when he said that the bike wasnt charging.

and I put my battary on my battery maintaner every night.

I meant, get the meter out and check the stator and reg/rect unit. If the stator is bad and you put a new reg/rect on it you may well fry the new $100 reg/rect and still have the same problem. Make sure the stator is good/bad and then test the reg/rect before you buy one.

Shredex,
While you are doing all this checking clean all the contacts & the fuse contacts while you are at it. Be suprised how much electrickery you can lose just on crap contacts!!!

sweekster wrote:It's probably not your stator. More than likely it's the VR...might was well replace/updgrade to a better one.

Click here to see how ..

I have the r6 VR on my bike allready.




and where is the stator located on my bike?
I dont see this thing anywhere

go on ebay , FZR600 stator/ alternator

PIMPMYFZR wrote:go on ebay , FZR600 stator/ alternator

some guy has them for sale for $150.
but I still would like to know where this thing is on my bike. I think its in the crankshaft.

shredex wrote:

PIMPMYFZR wrote:go on ebay , FZR600 stator/ alternator

some guy has them for sale for $150.
but I still would like to know where this thing is on my bike. I think its in the crankshaft.

SHREDEX,
Nah it is attached to the lefthand engine cover, and the flywheel is attached to the crankshaft :-}

and before I went spending any hardearned I would clean up my contacts and check my wires were not broken !!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/Stator-Coil-1995-Ya ... .m20.l1116

http://cgi.ebay.com/YAMAHA-NEW-STATOR-G ... 240%3A1318

this is cheap one
http://cgi.ebay.com/fzr-600-charging-sy ... 240%3A1318

another cheap one
http://cgi.ebay.com/1989-fzr600-stator_ ... 240%3A1318

yamaha_george wrote:

shredex wrote:

PIMPMYFZR wrote:go on ebay , FZR600 stator/ alternator

some guy has them for sale for $150.
but I still would like to know where this thing is on my bike. I think its in the crankshaft.

SHREDEX,
Nah it is attached to the lefthand engine cover, and the flywheel is attached to the crankshaft :-}

and before I went spending any hardearned I would clean up my contacts and check my wires were not broken !!!

I am going to deffinitly do this first, since I allready have to pay $180 for my new rear wheel.
I would like to also take a look at my stator and see if its all gummed up or something.
when I remove the cover, will anything fly at me? Im afraid to take it off. and theres some thing that looks like a flat head screw driver goes to it.

That screw doesn't do anything, don't remove it. Just remove the allen head bolts and you're good to go. Do the stator test before you go taking it apart, may save you the work if it's not your stator. Check in the electrical section of the forum for the test. Good luck!

Shred, you really need to get a Clymer manual for this. ... i think... OK- IF one of the spark plugs is NOT giving a "FAT BLUE SPARK" ...

Your ignition coils could be bad (under the airbox). They have specific primary and secondary resistance numbers you'll need to test. The ignition pick-up coil also has resistance you need to test. (says to do this you also gotta remove the gas tank) (also says to test what's behind that engine cover you have a picture of you need to have the bike warmed up, or use a hair dryer to warm up the components)
Honestly part of it makes no sense to me because they say to disconnect the spark plug cap from each lead in order to test the secondary resistance (R x 1000) between the "coil's secondary spark plug leads"... the drawing they show here looks to be some kind of connector i've never seen before, but hey, i'm an idiot so that doesn't count for much)

I assume what your friend did was "spark plug cap testing". I also assume he checked to see that all 4 had "Fat Blue Spark" to begin with (??)

I'm at a loss to say what stage the alternator falls in all this mess of electrical sh*t but they say that should be tested also. "If it gives "infinite resistance" or "less resistance than is specified"... the coil is bad and the stator assembly must be replaced (the individual coil cannot be replaced)"

...what George said about electrical connections / fuses being corroded is the first thing to check according to the book also.

hopefully this convinced you to get the book... maybe ... then you can either figure it out correctly without getting electrocuted or be still just as baffled as i am. Either way is better than just guessing.