FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Was going to pick up my son today when this nice motorist beside me pointed franticly at the back of my bike.
What do you know? There's smoke coming from under my seat.
A quick pullover, pop the seat and find my new aftermarket regulator/rectifier is almost on fire. It had already melted through the backing plate!
I'm taking it in stride and it actually funny and good material for puns.

On a serious side will the later model FZR RRs' fit an early one directly, or will I need to modify the wiring?

Thanks
Dave (Smokin' Arse) Phipps

oh man thats like two VR's actually catching fire in a week.

Anyway, there is no such thing as an FZR "RR". For a regulator, get one of the YZF,R6, R1 regulators. Should be a write up on the wiki.

RR was short for writing out Regulator/Rectifier. Lazy typing today.
Looking through the WIki after I move 30 bags of cement out of the van.

davephipps wrote:RR was short for writing out Regulator/Rectifier. Lazy typing today.
Looking through the WIki after I move 30 bags of cement out of the van.

oooo haha my bad. 30 bags of cement huh..i feel sorry for ya so here's the link http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=r ... conversion

Coffe break time. Half way through the cement move.GASP PANT

I feel sorry for the van!



I just noticed you're from Bloomington. I rode my FZR down there this summer to visit a buddy (works at Crane). Spent a few days riding around and spending too much at the bars in town. You guys have some killer asphalt out there (the nightlife ain't bad either)!

What year bike again? If it is '95 or newer, you can buy any YZF or R6 ('99-'05 atleast) regulator and it will plug right in. If it is older, the upgrade is fairly easy.

Meg, screw the van I've now moved over 5 tons of cement around this week.
Tommy try the brown county area, lots of curves. Lots of curves in the nightlife too
Cad, It a 90, the one where the regulator looks sort of like a flash drive.

I'm getting a replacement part free of charge from ebay seller wwwmotoparts-usacom. This guy is awesome. Fast professional service with 100% guarantee.

Good you're geting a replacement, but check all the wires for any shorts or corrosion.

megaloxana wrote:Good you're geting a replacement, but check all the wires for any shorts or corrosion.

Going to check everything using the electrosport troubleshooter.
Also going to check all wiring.
I have recently changed out my positive lead on the battery to a heavier guage. I guess it's time to check out all the others. I already know that there are some connectors that could use a good cleaning.

Also make sure you add a heat sink to the VR. Similar to what you put on a computer CPU. The older ones run really hot.

Thanks Cad, actually the aftermarket one I got has a heatsink on it, just not a very big one.

OK, I'm running through the electrosport troubleshooter and have some questions,

At one point it says to connect a probe to one of the three white wires coming from the stator and connect the other probe to the engine case. If you get a reading below 100 Ohms the stator is bad. I'm getting no reading. I've got one lead on the wire and one on the case.
ALso when testing resistance between the white wires from the stator it says you should get something between .5 and 2 Ohms. From what I've seen here those readings would be too high. Which is right?
How the heck do you check AC voltage using an analog multimeter? DCV I understand.

Here are the links to both troubleshooters
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-r ... -guide.php
http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=r ... conversion

Can anyone tell me why they are so different?

davephipps wrote:Thanks Cad, actually the aftermarket one I got has a heatsink on it, just not a very big one.

OK, I'm running through the electrosport troubleshooter and have some questions,

At one point it says to connect a probe to one of the three white wires coming from the stator and connect the other probe to the engine case. If you get a reading below 100 Ohms the stator is bad. I'm getting no reading. I've got one lead on the wire and one on the case.

What you are looking for at this stage is continuity to ground ( a circuit). "no reading" ..if by this you mean infinity ohms you are fine. You do NOT want to have a circuit thru the windings to ground. You have to check this on all three legs of the stator (all three white wires). You are using an analog meter? So, you touch both probes to each other and 'zero' the meter, right? That is zero ohms. When you go probe to white, other probe to case does the needle swing off the scale? That is infinity ohms and means you are okay on that stator leg.

ALso when testing resistance between the white wires from the stator it says you should get something between .5 and 2 Ohms. From what I've seen here those readings would be too high. Which is right?
How the heck do you check AC voltage using an analog multimeter? DCV I understand.

The resistance between white wires above is okay. .5 ohms is pretty negligible resistance . What you are looking for in this test is that none of the three legs of the stator are 'open' circuits'. That is, none of the three legs has a broken winding. You should be looking for minor resistance on all three legs.

You should have a VAC setting on the dial of your meter ( 'V' with a wavy symbol next to it denotes VoltsAC- 'V' with a wavy symbol over a set of dashed lines denotes VoltsDC)

Here are the links to both troubleshooters
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-r ... -guide.php
http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=r ... conversion

Can anyone tell me why they are so different?

haven't read the one here, but I can tell you that you can trust the electrosport one

Thanks for the reply realrazor.
I'm using an analog multimeter. Wish I had a digital one.
So, you touch both probes to each other and 'zero' the meter, right? That is zero ohms. When you go probe to white, other probe to case does the needle swing off the scale? That is infinity ohms and means you are okay on that stator leg.
Yes it's reading infinity, and yes I'm feeling silly for not reading the troubleshooter carefully
You should have a VAC setting on the dial of your meter ( 'V' with a wavy symbol next to it denotes VoltsAC- 'V' with a wavy symbol over a set of dashed lines denotes VoltsDC)
I can find VAC on the multimeter but I'm not sure how to read it. Does it use the same scale as the volts DC with dB added?

davephipps wrote:I can find VAC on the multimeter but I'm not sure how to read it. Does it use the same scale as the volts DC with dB added?

It should indicate at the end of the scale VAC or V~, or maybe be a scale in red. Maybe check something known AC and see where it comes to rest.

Back probe the big connector (where the stator plugs into the main harness) and check the AC output with eveything hooked up. Check all three legs. backprobe the other side of the connector and see if you have drop across the connector. That connector is a big problem usually with pretty signifigant voltage drop across it with (what looks to be) minor corrosion. I like to disconnect the wires from the connector blocks and baking soda/wirebrush them and then slather them with dielectric grease. And if they are shitty looking after that, replace them.