Still wont start!
Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 7:54 pm
I still can't get this thing to start and im running out of time for good riding. I've checked everything I can think of and Im still not getting spark.
pickup coil resistance checked good
yzf voltage reg in good shape
97 fzr wiring harness in great shape
r1 battery. cranks for days nice and strong
fuses good
N switch tested and functional
clutch switch brand new, tested and functional
carbs are rebuilt/rejetted set to recommendations with jet kit, not snyched yet though.
good compression from the engine and vacuum in the carbs
carb boots are new and crack free
new spark plugs, gaps checked for factory spec
factory pro ign advance installed
main switch tested and functional
start switch cleaned, tested and functional.
the engine ran well when the bike was torn down with the exception of the carbs being all jacked up.
I've checked my grounds and everything seems happy there too. there are no missed connections at this point im sure.
I also just bought a good used cdi as the last one was a bit sketchy before the rebuild.
here are the 2 problems I can see now.
one, the kickstand switch. it makes no difference whatsoever. for example, the N switch will switch the relay under the seat and allow it to start, same for the clutch switch and both switches, if not in the correct position will keep it from starting. the kickstand switch has good continuity and I also tried directly wiring the 2 wires together and eliminate the switch altogether. no difference. I also tried replacing the relay with the one that was on my old harness, but that kickstand switch didn't work either. the kickstand switch did work for me maybe once or twice when I first tried to start it and had the next problem.
the second problem is kinda weird. the wire connected between the starter and the battery is having a connection issue at the starter. when I tighten the nut down on the post of the starter, the bike won't crank, but instead, the positive cable will jump and start to squeel and smoke and if you hold the switch for more than 2 or 3 seconds the main starter relay pops and the wire smokes a bit. the surface on the starter is clean. but if I loosen the nut and the connecter sits at an angle on the post it cranks just fine, but if its not situated it may pop a spark which is dangerous for me at the moment since im using a temporary gas bottle so I don't have to keep moving the tank. I think what may be the culprit is the rubber isolator at the base of the stud on the starter. when the connector is flat under the nut it doesn't actually touch the stud, just the body of the starter. the nut looks good, but im going to try another one. I ended up having to replace the starter relay after that first time though. I've never seen a positive wire act like that before, a bad ground wire maybe, but not a positive wire.
so what am I missing? I've got zero spark and have tested and replaced everything I can think of. I want to fire this thing up!!
pickup coil resistance checked good
yzf voltage reg in good shape
97 fzr wiring harness in great shape
r1 battery. cranks for days nice and strong
fuses good
N switch tested and functional
clutch switch brand new, tested and functional
carbs are rebuilt/rejetted set to recommendations with jet kit, not snyched yet though.
good compression from the engine and vacuum in the carbs
carb boots are new and crack free
new spark plugs, gaps checked for factory spec
factory pro ign advance installed
main switch tested and functional
start switch cleaned, tested and functional.
the engine ran well when the bike was torn down with the exception of the carbs being all jacked up.
I've checked my grounds and everything seems happy there too. there are no missed connections at this point im sure.
I also just bought a good used cdi as the last one was a bit sketchy before the rebuild.
here are the 2 problems I can see now.
one, the kickstand switch. it makes no difference whatsoever. for example, the N switch will switch the relay under the seat and allow it to start, same for the clutch switch and both switches, if not in the correct position will keep it from starting. the kickstand switch has good continuity and I also tried directly wiring the 2 wires together and eliminate the switch altogether. no difference. I also tried replacing the relay with the one that was on my old harness, but that kickstand switch didn't work either. the kickstand switch did work for me maybe once or twice when I first tried to start it and had the next problem.
the second problem is kinda weird. the wire connected between the starter and the battery is having a connection issue at the starter. when I tighten the nut down on the post of the starter, the bike won't crank, but instead, the positive cable will jump and start to squeel and smoke and if you hold the switch for more than 2 or 3 seconds the main starter relay pops and the wire smokes a bit. the surface on the starter is clean. but if I loosen the nut and the connecter sits at an angle on the post it cranks just fine, but if its not situated it may pop a spark which is dangerous for me at the moment since im using a temporary gas bottle so I don't have to keep moving the tank. I think what may be the culprit is the rubber isolator at the base of the stud on the starter. when the connector is flat under the nut it doesn't actually touch the stud, just the body of the starter. the nut looks good, but im going to try another one. I ended up having to replace the starter relay after that first time though. I've never seen a positive wire act like that before, a bad ground wire maybe, but not a positive wire.
so what am I missing? I've got zero spark and have tested and replaced everything I can think of. I want to fire this thing up!!