FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

I finally got my voltage regulator in the mail yesterday (that only took forever and a half swear ). I was reading over the VR swap page on fzrarchives and there are a couple of apparent discrepancies between what's on the page and what's sitting on my desk at home. I'm hoping I didn't order a part that isn't going to work for me.

1. The part number doesn't match the one listed on the page. Judging from the pictures, it looks like the same part though.

2. The article mentions using Aluminum foil or thermal paste to mate the VR with the aluminum mounting plate. However, looking at the bottom of the VR, it is not a flat surface. The bottom of the unit has a depression, so most of the surface area will not make contact with the mounting plate.

I'm not at home, so I don't have pictures or the part number handy; I'll get those later if necessary. There is a photo of the VR on the auction page here.

tommyj27 wrote:I finally got my voltage regulator in the mail yesterday (that only took forever and a half swear ). I was reading over the VR swap page on fzrarchives and there are a couple of apparent discrepancies between what's on the page and what's sitting on my desk at home. I'm hoping I didn't order a part that isn't going to work for me.

1. The part number doesn't match the one listed on the page. Judging from the pictures, it looks like the same part though.

2. The article mentions using Aluminum foil or thermal paste to mate the VR with the aluminum mounting plate. However, looking at the bottom of the VR, it is not a flat surface. The bottom of the unit has a depression, so most of the surface area will not make contact with the mounting plate.

I'm not at home, so I don't have pictures or the part number handy; I'll get those later if necessary. There is a photo of the VR on the auction page here.

Tommy,
the paste goes in the depression to make a good heat transfer to EITHER some kitchen foil folded TIGHT to fit the depression OR you use thin alloy sheet to fill the depression then paste that with heat sink compound so it make a good contact with the bikes mounting plate.

see:-

the second url tag line on:- http://www.saltmine.org.uk/fzr/vr.html for how mine looks. Please note :- I used a rivet nut / cinche nut for the way I fixed the VR to take advantage of air flow under the fairing AND the piece of alloy was plate not sheet IE it wa sway thick and maid the VR stick out more. Hence the ground edges to the fins <BG>

I can ride for 4 hours and it is still cool enough to touch unlike the old one used to make breakfast with on cold mornings LoL

Ok, I guess I was just expecting a flat surface on the bottom (just like a CPU).

I snapped a photo of the part number (i think it's a part number, it's the only writing on the unit), it doesn't match what's on the fzrarchives page, but presumably it doesn't matter. I'll try and get step-by-step photos so I a can do a writeup on the wiki, for the next n00b (like me) who works best with pics.

tommyj27 wrote:Ok, I guess I was just expecting a flat surface on the bottom (just like a CPU).

I snapped a photo of the part number (i think it's a part number, it's the only writing on the unit), it doesn't match what's on the fzrarchives page, but presumably it doesn't matter. I'll try and get step-by-step photos so I a can do a writeup on the wiki, for the next n00b (like me) who works best with pics.

T27,
The manufacturing is a very simple process. They get a casting and add the electronics on stilts into the case ,pour the synthetic loaded rubber in to the case till its level .
they then put the item in a vacuum chamber to pullout trapped air & gases formed by the rubber mix, that is why the backside is concaved in, not flat Nerd

My method of back filling is probably OTT but having read the tales of Horror of when one decides to blow I decided better safe than sorry.

When you look at the other side of your box to the printing there is the plug , how many lugs does it have (some have 5 and others 6 ) so be careful about how you wire it in to the bike loom

It's got five pins arranged like so (same as the diagram on the archives).
I haven't pulled anything apart yet, I was going to start breaking things this afternoon or tomorrow. My understanding, from reading the archives page, is that I'm pulling the wires out of the the harness and attaching them directly to the pins on the new VR. Are the connectors (inside the old harness) suitable for the new VR, or do I need to pick up some new connectors?

George, I like the way you've got your VR mounted to increase airflow, but I don't think I have enough slack in the AC & DC+ wires to make the stretch to the VR port when it is pointed down. Did you run new wires to get extra length or do I just need to dig around and find the hidden slack?

tommyj27 wrote:It's got five pins arranged like so (same as the diagram on the archives).



I haven't pulled anything apart yet, I was going to start breaking things this afternoon or tomorrow. My understanding, from reading the archives page, is that I'm pulling the wires out of the the harness and attaching them directly to the pins on the new VR. Are the connectors (inside the old harness) suitable for the new VR, or do I need to pick up some new connectors?

George, I like the way you've got your VR mounted to increase airflow, but I don't think I have enough slack in the AC & DC+ wires to make the stretch to the VR port when it is pointed down. Did you run new wires to get extra length or do I just need to dig around and find the hidden slack?

T27,
Either way you mount the VR you will need new spade recepticles (female type) to the best of my knowledge it is not a straight unplug , re-plug as the sockets on the loom (bike ) are not the same as the new VR.

If you look at the last picture of my mod, the section wrapped in RED tape is the new section I made & plugged in . I tucked the new connection behind & to the left of the relays if you watch closely.

Be aware that mounting it my way will require:-

1} A bigger plate / panel to mount the VR on

2} that plate will require either VR mount holes that will take nut & bolts OR if you have as I have rivet nuts fitted..

3} The original plate mounting hole will require counter sunk screws so that they do not foul the VR when you put it on .

4} AND lastly you will need to gring off each end of the VR fins to stop them vibrating and cutting into your LH seat fairing .

5} some heavy guage wire for the generator extensions plus standard loom sized wiring plus 4 (?) pairs of spade connectors with water proof silicon rubber shrouds and dia-electric grease (anti-corrosion ) plus one ring connector for the new ground wire

So it is not a "5 min" job doing it my way !!!!

Ok, now I see what you've done with the wiring extension. Is your new mounting plate borrowed from another bike, or did you fabricate one from sheet aluminum? Assuming you made it yourself, what thickness?

I will get this figured out. Thanks for all the help George.

Here is how I have mine attached. I used a different existing hole and made a bracket(just a sheet metal bar with prestamped holes from lowes, cut to size) to move it forward some, because it is bulky and will interfere with the tail plastics if put in stock location. My tail is chopped too so I had to keep it up high so it wasn't hanging out the bottom, you may be able to get away with just lowering it for clearance if you have a stock tail. You can see the wiring in the pics, didn't use any extensions, just cut the plug off the stock wiring. I also put the extra ground on which is probably not required, but won't hurt.

Haven't had any problems with it like this(been about 10months), electrics are solid and battery stays fully charge.

The whole design of the casing is to dissipate heat, so you shouldn't have to bother with extra plates and thermal paste to help keep it cool, should be fine as is.

tommyj27 wrote:Ok, now I see what you've done with the wiring extension. Is your new mounting plate borrowed from another bike, or did you fabricate one from sheet aluminum? Assuming you made it yourself, what thickness?

I will get this figured out. Thanks for all the help George.

T27,
Oh I always do the difficult bit I made my own plate out of 16G (approx 1/16" thick) alloy it is both longer than stock and higher to allow the VR to be mounted without crushing the wires.
Olando has a nice workman like simpler solution, as i said I'm just being me Nerd

I pulled off the VR and mounting plate this morning and I'm considering removing the mounting bracket (pictured), modifying the existing plate, and drilling new mounting holes in the subframe to bolt on the modified plate. My bracket already has a broken weld (looks like someone did a shit job of fixing it already), so I don't really want to put anything back on it. I'm also thinking that w/o the bracket I'll have some more clearance between the new VR and the fairing and possibly a better ground.

My only concern is drilling the subframe. I don't carry passengers, but is it a bad idea to drill into the frame anyways?

All done! Warmed up the engine in the garage with the choke on and it was showing 13.8V @ ~3000rpm. This is on the low end of acceptable (according to what I've read) and it's definitely an improvement over the old regulator. I'm hoping that this particular bike demon is put to rest. I'll get pictures up when I have a chance.

tommyj27 wrote:

Defintely a good enough reason to bring out he bunny and the banjo guy!

What do you do with the old ground? Attach it to the frame?

Old ground from wire bundle and the new ground lead from the VR are both bolted to the subframe on one of the bolts I used to attach the mounting plate. I'll try to get some pictures up over lunch if I remember (May want to PM me to jog the memory).

Everything all connected up.

And the finished product.