FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hello Everyone! Hoping to lean on your wisdom....here goes. I just purchased a 1997 fzr 600 that had less than 1000 miles on it! It's legit, I know the guy I bought it from and he bought it with 54 miles on it from a friend of his 8 years ago. OK, so the previous owner rebuilt the carbs with a kit of some sort and gave me the original gaskets as proof I guess. That's just info....here's my issue(s). OK, upon first starting to ride it, I found the clutch to release way out near the end of the lever travel. I adjusted it at the motor (repeatedly...turn screw until resistance, then back off 1/4 turn, hold there and tighten the locknut). I also adjusted it at the lever. Still releasing way out there. Next, unsure of how long ago he changed the oil and knowing he used only fully synthetic, I changed to dino oil hoping to get some more resistance from the clutch (crazy maybe, but wanted to change oil anyway). Still releasing way out there.

Today was the first time I rode it hard, and found that up above 9,000 rpms, the bike started to stumble, for lack of a better word. Wondering if it was due to the clutch adjustment, I adjusted the clutch way loose and ran hard through the first several gears. Seemed to gain a few rpm before it started, but it just won't pull to redline in 2nd gear on up. I manage to get to redline in 1st, but seems to struggle to get there. I'm not sure if I have a clutch issue or a carb issue from where he "rebuilt" the carbs. Clutch releasing way out at the end of the travel is an issue, though, so I'm wondering if the two are related.

Other than that, it has the usual fzr issues (I've owned 2 1989's through the years)...weak forks, brakes not what I'm used to, shock a bit soft. I can remedy all that, I just want to get it running like it looks. It's gorgeous. Such little usage over the years has probably done as much bad as good.

Thoughts based on the probably weak description above?

Failure to reach higher rpm is not a clutch problem....more likely carburation.
It has had carbs faffed on with and not been used properly for years.
Revert to std. settings....stock Yamaha settings in 99% of cases will give more usable power than the average rider is capable of using to the max if the bike is ridden as designed.

The clutch lever needs only a slight pull to operate sufficiently to disengage the transmission when set as per the manual using stock parts within wear limits and the correct lubricant. (about half travel of the lever should fully disengage the transmission.)

Fzr engines run better and use much less oil when the correct lubricant is used...utilising very high spec. modern oils that far exceed what the engine was designed to use is a retrograde and expensive step.

Run it for a while after you get the fueling/stumbling sorted and you may find the clutch issue sorts itself out after usage/slight slipping when taking off from lights ...etc. If not report back for further advice.

I would also pull the plugs to verify their condition on an old engine..no matter how few miles it had attained. It also allows boots and leads to be inspected. In the USA replacement plugs are nickel and dime items. This may easily cure engine rpm faltering.

A failing clutch causes the engine to 'Zing!' to redline, often bouncing off the rev limiter. An overly-heavy clutch is often the result of aftermarket "heavy duty"springs installed as a go-fast part by a previous owner. The OEM springs, incidentally, are entirely suitable and quite reasonably priced. Another cause of late release is a notched hub or basket; the plates don't float freely, and can't separate or come together properly.

Stumbles are more often, as Will notes, due to carburetion or 'leaking' spark wires. Other possible causes are a weak battery or charging system (a wasted-spark TCI system is *hungry*, and needs more and more juice as the revs climb), loose or corroded connections at any number of places, and an air cleaner filled with nut hulls and mattress lint from the squirrel that built its nest in there.

No, really ...

Awesome, gentlemen! Thanks a ton for the quick replies and excellent advice! I'll get the tank cover and airbox off and start looking at the carbs. I'll start by synching them, as I doubt the previous owner took that step. I'll also check for leaks at the connection to the airbox and at the intake. He just put the stock jets back in, so assuming they synch up nicely, I'll assume no leaks and all is good there. If that doesn't sort it, I'll then pull the plugs and continue from there. As far as the clutch, I'll ride it some more and possibly check back if it doesn't free up some with usage and my change to dino oil.

Thanks again for your quick replies and excellent advice!

You would be advised to remove the carbs...it is far from difficult.
Check and clean all jets and passageways and inspect the floats and heights.
THEN attempt to synchronise carbs.

Otherwise you are attempting an often frustrating task with settings that may be miles out.
Even if synced 100% there is no guarantee the engine will reach max rpm in all gears if something is amiss with one carb.

Out of balance carbs WILL NOT stop an engine from reaching peak rpm, they will prevent smooth idle, clean pick up and smooth acceleration.

I fit new aftermarket clutch cables to nearly all refurbs....they cost very little and make the clutch as light as a feather when the approved routing is used... very much the same as the bike left the Yamaha assembly plant 25 years ago when new.