FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Already posted this in my old thread but it's a new issue. So....
I looked in the stickies for a how to on checking the vrr for correct ohm readings but didn't see it. Using this photo
I'll explain what I did. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Both top pins and the bottom right are wires from the stator. I checked each of these pins across and got 1.1 M ohms across the three (1-2 1-3 2-3) next I checked for the diode inside. Negative on case, pos on bottom left pin. Overload. Pos on case, neg on bottom left pin, current flowed. To me, that seems like the flow is backwards. Is the vrr correct on the diode placement or is it backwards?

Ps the pic won't rotate for me. Rotate 90* for correct pin orientation

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"Correct pin orientation" is such a subjective topic. Connector clip to the top (what you have showing on the screen right now) is how I've always done it, and IIRC most manuals do it that way as well. Just because the item is installed on its side, doesn't mean that's the top! (laugh)

There are no ohm readings that I know of for these things, as it's just a big bag of diodes and SCRs at the pins, so you're just looking for 'Continuity' or 'open', and even that can be a confusing prospect when you're dealing with a 3-phase rectifier in 5 connectors.

Bottom right (bottom left when installed) is the red / 12v wire. That said, current is supposed to come OUT of the red wire, not into it, so the situation you described makes sense.

Now, the acid test - what do you get across the battery terminals at 3krpm with the VRR plugged in?

So would you agree to say that it sounds like that vrr maybe wired incorrectly? I get less than 12 vdc when revved at 3k. With vrr unplugged, reading the stator wires, I get around 50ish vac between the three phases 1-2,1-3,2-3. So I know there's juice.

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Between good AC numbers and rubbish DC numbers, sure sounds like a bad VR. Question - did you replace the fried battery? If not, try the DC test again, with the car battery connected (car off!) and the bike battery removed. It suddenly occurs to me that a sufficiently fried battery could be shorting to ground internally, pulling down the DC reading.

Well, I've been jumping it with my charger. It has a jump start operation mode. I do have a spare car battery I could try out. That didn't even occur to me that that could be happening. Thanks for the insight. Glad we could discuss it without frying eachother!

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