TRICKS TO SEATING AIRBOX ON CARBS?

[goosefartfan]

when I try to seat the airbox:

1. should the rubber "seal/mounts/grommets" be on the airbox or the carb?
2 Anyone try KY jelly (water soluble) or vaseline?
3. I know about boiling in antifreeze, but I'm lazy and have no place to do it.
4. The bike is on the street, so I can't get a hair dryer to it.

thanks!!

[TomcatMJ]

http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-fzr600ra-19 ... ml#results (was easier for me to find than the equivalent subpage of partzilla.com due to bookmarks for my 3bf in my browser )<-There's a parts schematic which will help figuring out where to place the rubber-joints..they're usually clamped on the carbs and plugged into the airbox,but if they're hardened too much you will have to try heating them with boiled water or a hairdryer (get a long power-line for the dryer as this might be the easiest solution without burning your fingers while fishing the rubber-joints out of the boiling water) and perhaps additional use some motoroil to make them a bit more slippy...vaseline or grease might clogg your carbs and is not such a good idea if something is falling or dripping into the carbs, motoroil would easily be burned with the fuel and cause no problems to the carbs
Second (and probably better) solution would be the use of soft new rubber-joints ...

[goosefartfan]

at the moment, they're attached to the airbox. I'm trying to figure out should they be attached to the carbs, LOOKING FOR THE EASIEST WAY TO ATTACH AIRBOX TO CARBS...

[TomcatMJ]

The easiest way or the working way?
Without the rubberjoints or a similar hose the carbs will not work due to the wrong volume of air between them and the filter...with pod-filters you will need other jets in order to get the bike working properly (as also with modified distances instead of the distance given by the joints between the box and the carbs)..
The joints have clamp-hoses (parts number 13 in the schematics) at the carb.end which will keep them sitting on the carbs while riding if the screw from the clamps are screwed in as they should and on the othzer end the joints are just plugged into the airbox without any clamps as they keep themselvs in the airbox.
First top-edge of the rubber has to get into the box in rider to keep attached, and even thats the problem if they're to much hardend by time, you mostly then get them either sitting properly on the carbs or in the airbox, for getting both fitting well you will need to heat them and sometimes nevertheless need additional some drops of oil...

[goosefartfan]

the diagram shows the clamps you mentioned. I don't have clamps, so it seemed like either way would work. Since there ARE clamps that attach the boots to the carbs, but not to the airbox, that probably means that I should place the boots on the carbs first.

[TomcatMJ]

Usually the clamps for keeping the rubbers to the carb should be placed so that you can get to the screws, i.e. the ones at cylinder 1+2 position should point to 8 o'clock (screwhead visible at the right side of the clamps) and the other two positioned at 4 o'clock with the screrws,also in a manner that you can see the screwhead. otherwise it might be a bit difficult to turn them in. With new rubbers it doesn't matter if you first attach them to the carbs and then plug them in the airbos or other turn around,but with hardened ones i guess it would be easier to first plug them in the box, give some drops of oil on their inside at the carbs end and then put them on the carbs,finally then turn the screws in to fixate them on the carbs...
The Yamahaclamps have a spare for a small edge of rubber at the clamp-position of the boots but if you don't have the originals you can easily take others (universal ones for water-hoses do the job also),but don't turn in the screws too deep inside then as they will possibly jump off from the carbs due to too much pressure then (and will get some cracks faster than with the usual yamaha clamps)...so fixate the boots with the clamps,don't strangulate them

Edit:And believe me,there are clamps needed to keep the rubber-joints on the carbs if driving with some speed for a while..it's not so funny if the airbox suddenly jumps off from the carbs when you're riding at 115 mph or more on the german autobahn and the bike starts a rodeo-session, even not with an unmodified 400 (47 kW/64 PS at my 3BF's Motor instead of the 3HE/3HH Motor's 91 PS or the 4JH Motor's 98 PS)

[Lorenzai]

Take the fuel tank out. Leave the boots on / in the air box, and press on over the carb mouths. Make sure you clamp the clamps on the boots all the way down so that sucker doesn't come back off. Then you can put your fuel tank back in and everything else.

[goosefartfan]

lorenzei,
your post needs more. getting the airbox ON the carb "mouths" is the hard part! they don't just "press on"
I was wondering if you put the front edge first, or the back edge, etc.

[Lorenzai]

With the tank out it was pretty easy. You do have to angle the box back towards the tail of the bike a bit and sort of walk the boots onto the carbs back and forth if your boots are very rigid. So try the back edge first. It might help to take a pair of pliers and try to loosen the boots up and get them more pliable. Sorry I can't be more descriptive.

[goosefartfan]

thanks, you already WERE more descriptive!

[XYLO]

Hey guys, first post but I've had my 97 600 for about 2 years now and the airbox has been one of the most enjoying little issued with the bike.

My method is a heat gun on the rubbers, still attached to the airbox. Heat up and rub a little water + dawn dish soap on the mating surfaces. Bike is on front and rear stands with gas tank removed, line up with carbs and put body weight on the airbox. Goes on so easy I usually do a triple check. Works pretty well, I double check at each oil change just to be sure.

The bike is on a 17 inch rear wheel and I have a Penske rear shock setup, emulators up front, and yzf600 front brakes.

[aero540t]

Hey guys, first post but I've had my 97 600 for about 2 years now and the airbox has been one of the most enjoying little issued with the bike.

My method is a heat gun on the rubbers, still attached to the airbox. Heat up and rub a little water + dawn dish soap on the mating surfaces. Bike is on front and rear stands with gas tank removed, line up with carbs and put body weight on the airbox. Goes on so easy I usually do a triple check. Works pretty well, I double check at each oil change just to be sure.

The bike is on a 17 inch rear wheel and I have a Penske rear shock setup, emulators up front, and yzf600 front brakes.

I may need to try this. I'm embarrassed to say I couldn't get my air box to seat on the carbs so it's been sitting on top of them for the last 8 years 11k miles. Oddly enough it runs great. I'm keeping it till it dies so it's all on me