FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Ok so I know im completely off the topic. But I have been doing alot of homework on the 92 fzr600. And the previous owners have replaced the airbox with pod filters. And I keep hearing how awful the bike performs on the street opposed to the track. I can get a replacement airbox, but how do the air ducts get from the frame to the openings at the top of the box?
Keep in mind that I have not seen how this all fits together first hand. Ive only seen the pd filters over the carbs. I also understad that ill most likely have to restore the factory jets. I guess what I need to know is what am I going to need to pick up outside of the airbox and a new filter?

The issue with pods is that people just throw them on and expect them to work. To have them work properly, you need a type of velocity stack.

Those air ducts on the FZR600 are a joke of sorts. They do NOT go directly to the air box as you might have imagined. They simply go into the frame from the front cowling.

yes they are a joke. i dont use them. there pointless in my book

Actually:

I will quote myself from an older topic (Re: Fairing air intake pipes?):

Kevadlilleke wrote:/The fairing air intake pipes/ merely compensate for underpressure that normally forms under the tank when you drive at highway speed and also acts as fresh/cool air inlet. As a sidenote - FZR doesn't have ram-air, just some pressure equalization, but it is still there to help the airbox design work as intended.

On the FZR 1000 (at least) they go through the frame and end right inside the frame, above the engine block. No direct connection to the airbox, but to the cavity between the engine, tank and airbox - which is where the airbox takes air from.

In principle when the pipes are in place, you should have a bit smoother ride and a bit more fuel economy because the airbox resonates at its engineered frequency. Any power gains shouldn't be noticeable outside the racetrack.

Kevadlilleke wrote:More reading...

Light:
http://www.thunderproducts.com/AirboxesDynotech.htm
http://www.superstreetbike.com/howtos/0 ... ewall.html
http://www.ducati-upnorth.com/tech/airfilter.php

More technical:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Airboxes.html

Random:
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11143

Ok so the airbox just regulates pressure to create a better vacuum to the carbs? Also there is some sort of hose that appeara to be directly below the tank, that is coming from the tranny case...I think. What does it go to? And should it be open? Because it is. And the last thing I need to ask. There is a loose black wire going to the wiring loom that has a connecter that appears to be 2 prong maybe?

The hose that you are referring to is most likely the engine case breather tube. It should connect to the air box.

A picture of the loose black wire would help.

Darrin

So what exactly is this "velocity stack" you had mentioned? And where would I obtain it? And also what jet kit would be reccomended for running those filters?

dans92fzr600r wrote:So what exactly is this "velocity stack" you had mentioned? And where would I obtain it?

They are actually part of the FZR600 airbox. They are the rubber pieces that attach to the carbs. They are removable from the airbox.


The YZF600 carbs had hard plastic ones like you see in the image below (they don't fit the FZR carbs - just wanted to give another example) ::

Here are some words from the wise "Yamaha George" :: http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=pod-tuning

Ok. Before I read that I have one more question. Since im not sure what size jets are in my carbs, would that create a problem if I put the oem airbox back on?

dans92fzr600r wrote:Ok. Before I read that I have one more question. Since im not sure what size jets are in my carbs, would that create a problem if I put the oem airbox back on?

It would certainly run better than pods alone.

Ok so even if the jet size has been changed to try to work around this problem, it would still be better to just get the aorbox?

dans92fzr600r wrote:Ok so even if the jet size has been changed to try to work around this problem, it would still be better to just get the aorbox?

There is no jet size that is going to overcome running direct pods and having them work through the entire range.

With the stock airbox on, it may not be flawless, but you certainly have a much better chance at tuning it properly - over the entire range.

The only real way to tell, if you don't want to pull the carbs, is to throw the airbox on it and fire it up.

As of now I can get it to run, amd I know for sure that the mixture isnt going to be completely up to par, and I know they need to be synched. But it should still start up like average. And sometimes it wont fire at all. So im going to go through the carbs once more, and put the airbox back onto it. And im under suspicion that the pickup coil may be either bad or has a bad connection. It tested to around 25 ohms to it. This isnt right so im going to replace that too and then ill give an update on whats going on and will post pictures too. And I forgot to take a couple photos of the "random wire" so ill do that too.

Ok so here is what exactly started all of my problems. To start, I had cleaned the tank and feul system and put fresh gas and new spark plugs in. After I did this I rode it around for a few minutes and stopped. Then rode it all the way home which was a good 20 minute ride. Once again it had zero problem running up to par.
So the next day I was going to meet up with some friends and go ride, but my bike had started to idle down and die when I came to stop signs. So I parked it and started fiddling with the idle adjustments and I realized that my throttle cable fastening screw had lodged its way down and had lodged the carbs open. So i quickly put this back the way it should be. Soon after i did this i tried to take it around the block to test it and it started giving me the following problem.
As I took it around the block, it started cutting out as soon as I released the clutch and started moving. And it would happen increasingly more until I parked it. It just kept bogging down and trying to die as soon as I pulled the clutch back in.it would fire right back up bit I kept getting the same result, but only when the engine was under the strain of the clutch. Eventually it stopped running at all.
Could a bad pickup coil, or bad connector for said coil be causing me all this grief? I have since fully cleaned the carbs and gotten It to fire up and run fairly clean but I still have the same symptom when I engage the clutch and try to go anywhere. Which is extremely discouraging. And if its still firing up does that mean that the tci is in good shape?